3b turbo
3b turbo
I am thinking about fitting a turbo to my 3b engine. Has anyone done this? Do you know where I can get some parts and the tricky parts of the turbo? What turbo to use? Also does anyone have any parts lying round?
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Mark
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Mark
- niblik
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howdy mark...
gettin the exhaust manifold for a 3b can be tricky.. that'd be a start..
then ya can use a wide range of turbo's and depends on ya expectations out of the turbo.. i've read articles about using a mitsibishi turbo.. a TC05 from memory.. these are only oil cooled, so no plumbing up water lines.. just oil in and return lines.. also look for the 3-bolt tc05 and not the 4 bolt.. this type should bolt straight onto the std 3bt manifold.. 'should'
also have read and heard about having to put 2 gaskets in to space the head up a fraction because of the compression thing, but not sure as to whether this is true.. maybe somebody 'in the know' could elaborate please?
then its a case of piecing it together.. oil feed lines, turbo mounts to manifold, air intake to turbo, exhaust to turbo and then away..
i have been thinkin of doin this to 'ole rusty' to test what its like in comparison to a standard 3b, to find out for my build purposes..
good luck fella..
gettin the exhaust manifold for a 3b can be tricky.. that'd be a start..
then ya can use a wide range of turbo's and depends on ya expectations out of the turbo.. i've read articles about using a mitsibishi turbo.. a TC05 from memory.. these are only oil cooled, so no plumbing up water lines.. just oil in and return lines.. also look for the 3-bolt tc05 and not the 4 bolt.. this type should bolt straight onto the std 3bt manifold.. 'should'
also have read and heard about having to put 2 gaskets in to space the head up a fraction because of the compression thing, but not sure as to whether this is true.. maybe somebody 'in the know' could elaborate please?

then its a case of piecing it together.. oil feed lines, turbo mounts to manifold, air intake to turbo, exhaust to turbo and then away..
i have been thinkin of doin this to 'ole rusty' to test what its like in comparison to a standard 3b, to find out for my build purposes..

good luck fella..


- Steve_t647
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dont go the 2 head gasket route it is just messy and nasty you will be forever changeing them.
Low boost 4-5 PSI is OK if you have an intercooler higher boost will mean looking at the head or piston crown to remove some metal. (or replacement with lower compression pistons)
Niblik I think you mean the td05 you will also need to sort out the wastegate to open for 5 psi.
Also need's more fuel so you will have to play with the diesel pump and a larger exhaust to stop some of the back pressure.
4 or 5 psi sounds like nothing but it will make a huge difference, and is a lot of air (4 times atmosphere) petrol cars decompressed can run massive boost but you are looking for torque and every day driving rather than quarter miles and diesels need that compression.
On the older sulphur diesel this was not as good an option as with the better diesel we now use.
good luck.
Low boost 4-5 PSI is OK if you have an intercooler higher boost will mean looking at the head or piston crown to remove some metal. (or replacement with lower compression pistons)
Niblik I think you mean the td05 you will also need to sort out the wastegate to open for 5 psi.
Also need's more fuel so you will have to play with the diesel pump and a larger exhaust to stop some of the back pressure.
4 or 5 psi sounds like nothing but it will make a huge difference, and is a lot of air (4 times atmosphere) petrol cars decompressed can run massive boost but you are looking for torque and every day driving rather than quarter miles and diesels need that compression.
On the older sulphur diesel this was not as good an option as with the better diesel we now use.
good luck.
I got hold of an exhaust manifold off a 13-bt. Would this turbo be any good for my 3b? Im not entirely sure what would be the best option so any help would be good. Cheers.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 78.htm?p=1
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 78.htm?p=1
Someone on ih8mud said:
"Turbo Glide kit for the 1HZ uses the Garrett Hi Flo T28 with the intergrated waste gate."
So would this be more suitable?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 56.htm?p=1
Or is that not optimum?
Thanks.
"Turbo Glide kit for the 1HZ uses the Garrett Hi Flo T28 with the intergrated waste gate."
So would this be more suitable?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 56.htm?p=1
Or is that not optimum?
Thanks.
Last edited by Thrupp on Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- rangimotors
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Don't no your situation, but i wouldn't be looking for a massive turbo, as a wise man stated your not going to be running high boost without extensive mods and 4-5 psi would be great. Something along the lines of a td05 would be nice, i also like the IHI turbo's they usually come on boost nice and early, lets face it you want nice low down power you don't want to have to give it full on snot to get power. Always an idea to pick up a common turbo as well no point getting everything custom built to suit some one off turbo because if it goes bang you've gotta start again.
We have 5 or 6 turbo's lying around here in the garage mabey ill have a look and compare them to my 1kz turbo
We have 5 or 6 turbo's lying around here in the garage mabey ill have a look and compare them to my 1kz turbo
Never argue with an idiot, they drag you down to their level then beat you with experiance!
- krazynutta
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the ct26 is the right turbo for it it comes on the 13bt and the 1hdt as standard and will make a hell of a difference to your 3b ,you'll start pulling top gear up hills
:bubble:





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- Steve_t647
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It depends on the condition of the turbo at 225,000km I would think it could be near the point of needing work but diesels are a little easier on them.
Also the difference is not massive like a petrol unless you wind up the boost, that means a lot more work as diesels get very hot with boost and tend to destroy themselves early so you are buying a small performance boost.
low 4-5 psi is more relyable long term, especially on longer trips mud in radiators, also getting a higher flow diesel pump helps. and a lower temp thermostat
Also the difference is not massive like a petrol unless you wind up the boost, that means a lot more work as diesels get very hot with boost and tend to destroy themselves early so you are buying a small performance boost.
low 4-5 psi is more relyable long term, especially on longer trips mud in radiators, also getting a higher flow diesel pump helps. and a lower temp thermostat
Last edited by Steve_t647 on Tue Oct 09, 2007 7:59 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hi there.
I'm doing the same with my 3B at the moment. I couldn't find a 13B-T manifold let alone a spare 3B one to butcher. I have started making my own manifold up but getting some exhaust flanges profile cut. will use some heavy wall steam pipe to construct it. (90 deg bend etc...)
I have also used a CT20 off a surf. these are the same as the CT26 (used on the landcruiser and celica's) but have a smaller compressor wheel. I thought that if it was the CT20 and not the CT26 then it would boost lower in the revs....? which would suit my slow driving style?
I'm planing on fitting this 3B turbo and landcruiser 4spd(including transfer box) to my surf and fitting both the wide 60 series diffs to match.
cheers Mike.
I'm doing the same with my 3B at the moment. I couldn't find a 13B-T manifold let alone a spare 3B one to butcher. I have started making my own manifold up but getting some exhaust flanges profile cut. will use some heavy wall steam pipe to construct it. (90 deg bend etc...)
I have also used a CT20 off a surf. these are the same as the CT26 (used on the landcruiser and celica's) but have a smaller compressor wheel. I thought that if it was the CT20 and not the CT26 then it would boost lower in the revs....? which would suit my slow driving style?
I'm planing on fitting this 3B turbo and landcruiser 4spd(including transfer box) to my surf and fitting both the wide 60 series diffs to match.
cheers Mike.
A T28 is far too big for a 3B. My 3.9L Isuzu runs a T25 from a nissan CA18DET without running out of puff at redline (15psi, not intercooled). Going bigger is just throwing away all the bottom end torque.
A garrett T25 or T3 will do the job nicely (smallest exhaust A/R you can find).
Toyota CT12B from a 1KZ-TE would work great, CT from a smurf would be a shade too small, CT from a landcruiser too big.
I'm not up with the mitsubishi or IHI turbos in that size.
An intercooler at single figures of boost is pointless. The air doesn't heat up enough to make it cool down. Extra fuel at those boost levels is optional, not a necessity.
Without extra fuel the engine will run cooler, a shade more efficiently and smoke less.
A garrett T25 or T3 will do the job nicely (smallest exhaust A/R you can find).
Toyota CT12B from a 1KZ-TE would work great, CT from a smurf would be a shade too small, CT from a landcruiser too big.
I'm not up with the mitsubishi or IHI turbos in that size.
An intercooler at single figures of boost is pointless. The air doesn't heat up enough to make it cool down. Extra fuel at those boost levels is optional, not a necessity.
Without extra fuel the engine will run cooler, a shade more efficiently and smoke less.
basics wrote:basics wrote:whats a fiar price for a turbo?
ive been offerd a turbo off a 13b-t and manifold for $600.
the motor has done 225,000ks
is that fair?
what ose every one this is a reasonable offer?
It's a fair price if the manifold has no cracks and the turbo is in perfect working condition.
If the manifold is cracked or the turbo needs rebuilt then it's not. Can you take it to a turbo shop for a checkover?
is this what Im after http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 162983.htm ?