All about 70 series cruiser diff issues

Garage talk. Anything from mounting a winch to water proofing the electrics.
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What is the preferred option for my cruiser?

Locker in the front LSD in the back
7
39%
LSD in the front Locker in the back
11
61%
 
Total votes: 18

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fweddy
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All about 70 series cruiser diff issues

Post by fweddy »

My diff is convenient - every time I get water in it it starts to leak out the front end. (drive shaft end)

Ideal for letting me know when I have too much water content. So I extended the diff breathers to reduce the amount of times the water gets in. At the time I did that, there was some water in there and a slight leak.

Since bathing my truck again I have a bigger leak (= more water in there) despite the extended breathers.

So I'm figuring my convenient leak is also my source of the problem. If oil can get out you would have to guess that water can get in!

Any thoughts?

What is likely to be involved in sorting this out? is it just a matter of removing and replacing a seal? If so I'm guessing the whole cabbage comes out?

As a side issue my locker (lockright) has failed be a couple of times just of late, so I should address this at the same time, what are the likely causes? are they serviceable, repairable?

Also about to fit a LSD - should the locker go in the front and LSD in the rear or the tuther way round.

My diffs are my point of issue at present so any diff related details and comments and 1,2,3 steps appreciated :) (BTW its a full floating rear end.)
Last edited by fweddy on Thu Oct 11, 2007 8:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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H2OLOVA
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Post by H2OLOVA »

Pretty easy to fix the diff seal. And no you don't have to remove diff, Hardest part is undoing the flange nut. Think its 30 or 32mm? The nut has two locking type tabs that need to be opened up (you'll know what i mean when ya look) Would help if you could use a rattle gun. When replacing the seal check the flange where the seal runs. Sometimes these get worn. You can get "Speedy Sleeves" which are a stainless steel sleeve to fit to your flange and make it all pretty again. I get mine from Wilson Bros but most engineering type places should sell them. As for your locker vs LSD problem...........If its your daily driver then definitely Locker in front and LSD in rear. Only thing to watch with lockers in the front is the Birfield (CV type thing) can break. Would depend on what sort of abuse you dish up to it though :wink: So if your going to be changing diffs around then you can sort out your locker as well :? Lockrights are a good unit when they're set up properly. Biggest thing is to get the thrust clearance within range. But thats a whole other story and if you have the book that came with the locker it has all these details. Have fun :lol: :lol:
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Sadam_Husain
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Post by Sadam_Husain »

H2OLOVA wrote: As for your locker vs LSD problem...........If its your daily driver then definitely Locker in front and LSD in rear. Only thing to watch with lockers in the front is the Birfield (CV type thing) can break. Would depend on what sort of abuse you dish up to it though :wink:


and those CV's break real easy with front lockers so I found out :oops:

I did mine gently rocking backwards and forwards with full lock and no jandel :?
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

Thanks for tips so far.

Where is a good source for the seals?

I've been running round with the locker in the rear so far and have no problem with its road manners so am really after where is best for traction and least breakages.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by fweddy »

Just added a poll regarding where to put my LSD and locker.

I finally got the LSD from the guy I got the truck from so am looking to fit it soon. I also need to attend to the rear diff which has the locker so can swap things round easy enough.

Also let me show my greenness on these things. What should I have in the box of bits for the LSD parts? I have two large gears, two small ones and two small dish spaded things. Does that sound right?

Here's the guy about to tackle the diffs and doesn't even know what he's looking at!! But that's exactly what I like doing! learning stuff. I'll track down assistance where I need it.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by fweddy »

50-50 poll results lol

I have drained the water/gray slush/black blobs from my diff :) Not good!

Have removed the drive shaft and loosened the cabbage. How do I remove the axles? Its full floating so I've undone the six or eight nuts on the ends, how do I now remove the axle? (slowly getting wee bit done every now and then around busy work schedule)

Also before I even get to it how do I do the front? At what part do I split it to pull axles from diffhead?

thanks
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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muddy
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Post by muddy »

There's probably cone washers behind the axle nuts. Put the nuts on the ends of the threads so the washers don't shoot off, then bash the side of the housing next to the studs with a hammer to squeeze the cone washers out.

I've got a lockright in the rear & LSD up front. I've seen others with a few broken CV's from a front locker so decided not to do it myself. I believe it's really a matter of driving style though - the CV's are weaker in reverse than forwards, and lots weaker the further you turn the wheels. Not much chance of breaking going forwards in a relatively straight line, but be careful on tight turns, and be VERY gentle turning in reverse. With the LSD in front - no worries. But I do notice it doesn't turn corners as well as an open diff in slippery conditions. But a locked front would be the same or worse. Also if you don't have power steering, a locked front would be pretty hard to handle. I find it gets quite heavy on the steering going downhill with good traction when the LSD really seems to work. A locked front with the power on would jerk all over the place if traction was varying from one side to the other.

Having said all that - I think the most effective combination would be a tightened LSD in the rear and locker up front, if you can adapt your driving style to live with the problems it causes...
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Post by oldblue »

Image
"Oldblue" Electric to Manual Hub Conversion's 03 5447586
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Post by fweddy »

Hey thanks for the info! Appreciate it. I have manual hubs but the principle will be the same.

I take it then the axle will come out towards the outside? and relieve the diff head?
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by muddy »

Front is much the same - just have to remove the free-wheel hubs first, and then have to turn the C/V to the right angle with the flat on top so it will come out of the swivel hub.
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Post by fweddy »

Have my rear diff out and and working on the front.

Who would you recommend for helping me assess and assist with the diff heads? Any one here know what they are doing and willing to help? Would be great to do it over the weekend.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by Jungle »

You need serious help. I reckon go out and buy a haynes/gregory's/max ellery manual for your truck. Will save getting grease on your keyboard.

Max Ellery is the best though.

I run cable lockers and electric lockers in my cruisers. I like to be able to run an open front for control. I've seen guys having trouble putting there trucks where they want them with lockrights in the front. I suppose the lsd is similar depending on how wound up it is.

Cheers
G
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Post by Cutbak »

muddy wrote:Front is much the same - just have to remove the free-wheel hubs first, and then have to turn the C/V to the right angle with the flat on top so it will come out of the swivel hub.


Ah, yep, after the brake caliper, rotor, and spindle are removed -- or did I do it the hard way...

I congratulate you on your jump-in attitude it's the most character building way!!!

I stuck a standard preload LSD in the front because I didn't want a Lockrite (in all the time), or an ARB type (would never make the right decision when to use it) For me at least, a 'little bit of help all the time' has been a good move- and no busted CVs 'yet'! I also run an LSD in the back, because that's what the truck came with - I think it's pretty worn out... My plans would be for lower transfer case gearing / bigger tyres - currently on 33s, before a difflock.

Just a comment re: diff water - when I got my truck, whoever fitted the diff breather extensions (cool) had gone to the trouble of refitting the little valves to the end of the pipe in the engine bay (uh-ohh). These are one-way valves that only allow 'blow', so the suck still had to come from the 'under water' bits. Make sure your hoses breathe easily, and are preferably filtered.

Oh yeah, nearly forgot. Hopefully this be a worthy '?' Didn't look too hard when the front LSD went in :oops: .But I've noticed that the front axles now stay put and don't slide in when I go to fit the :evil: circlips for the hubs. Are the LSD internals helping to locate the axles? If so, can I chuck away the bastard circlips? If so, this is a bloody good reason on its own to fit an LSD :wink:
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Post by fweddy »

Jungle wrote:You need serious help.


Should I see a mental heath specialist or buy a nissan? :lol:


Found these useful pages

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan//tech/axle/part1.html

http://www.geocities.com/george_tlc/birfield.html
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by fweddy »

Have made good progress over the last couple of days. Now just need to get the diffs checked and the LSD fitted.

Image

Am also doing some preventive maintenance while I'm at it. Any recommendations of items worth replacing while I'm in this deep appreciated.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by missnz »

fweddy wrote:preventive maintenance.


That dog...I suggest some metal wiring :P so that she will not do any more damage!!!

anyways, glad you'll be up and moving again sometime.
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Post by Bubbles »

fweddy wrote: Should I see a mental heath specialist or buy a nissan? :lol:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: I hope that trucks ready by the 18th :wink:
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

missnz wrote:
fweddy wrote:preventive maintenance.


That dog...I suggest some metal wiring :P so that she will not do any more damage!!!

anyways, glad you'll be up and moving again sometime.


Busted Amy!

Miss NZ - Victoria, Aust, - Scud's mental assessment - all fitted you! Have you been doing some 4x4ing in your dad's truggy or maybe the forester, or dare I say it - the starlet??
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by missnz »

fweddy wrote:
missnz wrote:
fweddy wrote:preventive maintenance.


That dog...I suggest some metal wiring :P so that she will not do any more damage!!!

anyways, glad you'll be up and moving again sometime.


Busted Amy!

Miss NZ - Victoria, Aust, - Scud's mental assessment - all fitted you! Have you been doing some 4x4ing in your dad's truggy or maybe the forester, or dare I say it - the starlet??


Lol...I wondered if you would guess it was me! But having my profile pic I guess helped a bit.

No, haven't been doing much of anything lately. Been busy finishing school. And, yea, I finished yesterday!!! But that is a good idea. I'll have to see what I can cook up. There are some good tracks over the back of us that the Forester can handle. As for the Starlet!!, the places that thing has been is incredible(not with me driving by the way!). Dad's truggy hasn't got a look in since Dad has a motorbike! It's been fun riding lately as our friends next door have just got some motorbikes so I go riding with the little tykes over there!

As for Scud's mental assessment! :lol:
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Post by Cutbak »

Image

Am also doing some preventive maintenance while I'm at it. Any recommendations of items worth replacing while I'm in this deep appreciated.[/quote]

...What about... "clean the shed out so I can fit my truck inside" :wink: Sorry, couldn't help that one (don't even know if it's your shed!). Rear Landcruiser brakes. :twisted: ...Seeing as you're still on drums at the back, have you looked at the state of their insides lately? Mine are invariably shite, which is why I don't look at them that often. But since I painted all the bits with POR15, and packed o-ring lube under the slave cylinder boots, about a year ago, I have actually noticed that they still work! You should be able to get replacements for all the rusted lumps of crap and they're not too dear (as of my last experience anyway).
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

...What about... "clean the shed out so I can fit my truck inside" :wink: Sorry, couldn't help that one (don't even know if it's your shed!).


Oh smart thinking! Actually no that one is not really mine to have access to, but I could talk my way into it most likely.

I do have a workshop behind the cruiser, but that has a partly restored Ferguson tractor in it.

The low roof to the left in the image is an old glass house I converted to a storage shed but that now houses my brother's mini project. I also built a 4 vehicle lean-to but that is full of three vehicles and heaps of parts -

...so I work on the cruiser outside in the sun! Which has been real pleasant the last few days. Only problem is the axle stands sink into the ground so I have to use blocks of wood.

My rear brakes were noted at the last WOF as getting borderline and the hand brake is acting like a typical 70 so I'll look at them too.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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Post by smurf182 »

fweddy,

Not sure what you have in the way of manuals but the Toyota FSMs can be downloaded from here:

http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/viewdownloads.php?dcid=17

Better than Haynes/Ellery etc.
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fweddy
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Post by fweddy »

Cruiser is back together, included dog damage (I think - fingers crossed its all correct). Just need some grease in the birfields and a few other wee things.

Another question - Will the 2-spider hilux diff head be suitable for the rear of a 94 prado. I understand the Prado is 4.3 ratio as are some of the hiluxes. Any confirmation appreciated.
Sold my 1985, BJ74 MWB Landcruiser, rear locker, 33" MTs, snorkel, PTO winch, solid bars all round, spotties, AM CB etc.
Now just a 1994, 1kz Surf, pretty standard.
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