How do you get bearing cups out????

Dick · Post by **Dick** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:14 pm

I am trying to get the bearing cups out, in my steering knuckle joints, top and bottom (the bearings that sit in the big silver ball thing on the front diff) and im not having any luck.

The vehicle is an '87 Diahatsu Rugger.

Any suggestions would be great,

Cheers,
Dick

4wdnuts · Post by **4wdnuts** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:18 pm

id try heating it to see if that will release the cup. failing that a chisel and hammer

4wdnuts · Post by **4wdnuts** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:19 pm

id try heating it to see if that will release the cup. failing that a chisel and hammer

DieselBoy · Post by **DieselBoy** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:23 pm

Use a drift with a nice sharp edge and a hammer. Work from the inside of the hub, there should be a lip on the underside of the cup that you can get a purchase on with the drift.

Saying that, i have best results with a big flat head screw driver as its longer than an of my drifts which makes it easier to smash the shit out of, and the flat head seems to find a better purchase on the lip of the cup. Don't be afraid to get physical :wink:

I wouldn't use a cold chisle incase you damage the housing :shock:

Dick · Post by **Dick** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:24 pm

4wdnuts wrote:id try heating it to see if that will release the cup. failing that a chisel and hammer

Thanks, yeah dad and me have been at it with a chisel and hammer, and the punch for a few hours and still had no luck, the cups are made of metal so hard it keeps wrecking our punch and chisel, and they havent been wrecked like that before, with all the hidings they get here on the farm!!

Dick · Post by **Dick** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:26 pm

DieselBoy wrote:Use a drift with a nice sharp edge and a hammer. Work from the inside of the hub, there should be a lip on the underside of the cup that you can get a purchase on with the drift.

Saying that, i have best results with a big flat head screw driver as its longer than an of my drifts which makes it easier to smash the shit out of, and the flat head seems to find a better purchase on the lip of the cup. Don't be afraid to get physical

I wouldn't use a cold chisle incase you damage the housing

Ok, thanks. i will try the long flat head screwdriver next. There are however, no lips on the inside to work off??? It is flush with housing.

4wdnuts · Post by **4wdnuts** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm

i have also seen someone run an arc welding rod along the inside. it heats it up. :shock:

but i personally would only do this as a last resort

Dick · Post by **Dick** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:29 pm

4wdnuts wrote:i have also seen someone run an arc welding rod along the inside. it heats it up. but i personally would only do this as a last resort

Ha, ok. Thanks.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:35 pm

4wdnuts wrote:i have also seen someone run an arc welding rod along the inside. it heats it up. but i personally would only do this as a last resort

Thats a good trick. It also works for removing valve seat inserts from cylinder heads. Just weld right round the i.d.

The reason it works is when the weld bead cools it contracts and pulls the ring with it, usually allowing the seat / bearing to fall out or be easily pried out.

This is all assuming that you don't f*ck up and weld it onto whatever you're trying to remove it from.
If that happens, then it definately wasn't me that recommended it.....

Ben

Post by **mike** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:38 pm

4wdnuts wrote:i have also seen someone run an arc welding rod along the inside. it heats it up. but i personally would only do this as a last resort

Actually thats prob the first thing i would do, The weld collapses the the bearing inwards. Just like normal welding as you weld and it cools it pulls like 40 bastards. Makes bearing removal piss easy.

But then I'm a rough bastard :wink:

Mike

Dick · Post by **Dick** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:07 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have got them out, well dad did. The welding trick worked perfectly.

Thanks again,
Dick