looking at a 85 range rover for a mate and was wondering if there is anything in particular to look for?
Pete
what to look for in a rangey
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Steve_t647
- Hard Yaka
- Posts: 998
- Joined: Wed May 17, 2006 12:00 pm
- Location: Christchurch City, In front of the computer
Take it for a decent run on the road uphill and look at the temps they can have a few cooling issues.
Look at the inside of the wheel arches and the sill area as if used on a farm they can get a bit of deterioration in there.
They also can have electrical issues so look at the wireing for repairs or damage. That is about all I can suggest the big one is temps and the sills and wheel arches.
Look at the inside of the wheel arches and the sill area as if used on a farm they can get a bit of deterioration in there.
They also can have electrical issues so look at the wireing for repairs or damage. That is about all I can suggest the big one is temps and the sills and wheel arches.
Legal disclaimer: Any information I may have provided is worth exactly what you paid me for it.
Rangie
Also buy yourself a large drip tray
Test the vacuum switch on the diff lock ($150 replacement)
Grab the tow ball and push the ball east-west, excessive movement means the main bush is over ($150-200)
Most importantly temp issues
also
Take a good look inside the engine, even if only through the oil filler hole.
You will need a torch, a Penlight is best.
Better yet remove the rocker cover.
A good look inside the rocker covers through the oil hole will help you to determine the internal condition, if your are unsure, it will fall into one of the following categories.
Silver Alloy surfaces? Sounds like a new engine
Brown tarnished? Very low mileage, dark brown? Perhaps higher mileage, but well cared for.
Black? Getting poor, a full rebuild/replacement should be considered.
Black Coated & becoming dense? Very poor condition, A rebuild is normally required
Black and very sludgy? Dead on its feet.
These engines will go through hell ... leaking all the way ... because they are so strong they are often neglected
Good luck
Test the vacuum switch on the diff lock ($150 replacement)
Grab the tow ball and push the ball east-west, excessive movement means the main bush is over ($150-200)
Most importantly temp issues
also
Take a good look inside the engine, even if only through the oil filler hole.
You will need a torch, a Penlight is best.
Better yet remove the rocker cover.
A good look inside the rocker covers through the oil hole will help you to determine the internal condition, if your are unsure, it will fall into one of the following categories.
Silver Alloy surfaces? Sounds like a new engine
Brown tarnished? Very low mileage, dark brown? Perhaps higher mileage, but well cared for.
Black? Getting poor, a full rebuild/replacement should be considered.
Black Coated & becoming dense? Very poor condition, A rebuild is normally required
Black and very sludgy? Dead on its feet.
These engines will go through hell ... leaking all the way ... because they are so strong they are often neglected
Good luck
Re: Rangie
Dexter wrote:Grab the tow ball and push the ball east-west, excessive movement means the main bush is over ($150-200)
which bush are you talking about?? Rust would be my main concern of a rangie that old, check upper tailgate, they are hard too come by. Check body mounts too chassis, especially the rear ones. Check bottom of doors. Most mechanical parts are cheap for those - plenty of aftermarket parts available
Steve_t647 wrote:Look at the inside of the wheel arches and the sill area as if used on a farm they can get a bit of deterioration in there.
In particular stick your hand in between the aluminium outer front guards and the steel inner footwell. Trapped mud here rusts the footwells out.
Also pull up the foot mats to check the condition of the floor.
If manual, check it doesn't pop out of gear on the over-run. My 85 doesn't have any vacuum switches or actuators in the transfer box (LT230), I always felt left out when people talk about them.
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Fish13
- Driver/Navigator
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:00 pm
- Location: New Plymouth, Taranaki
Mentioned most already, but had a few Rangie's so will add my tuppence!
Rear BODY crossmember (not chassis) rots away. Can see it better from underneath the rear looking up towards the tailgate. Lift carpets and check boot floor also.
Rear seat belt mounts - look up in the wheelarch for rust and also give the seatbelt mount a waggle. Push up from underneath with your thumb to check for 'softness'.
Sills - mentioned already but a BIG job to replace if they are rotten.
Inner wings - easy to spot most of this
Tailgate upper - rust like hell and very hard to find a good one, or as I am finding, very hard to find an alloy replacement.
Bottom tailgate - along the bottom edge (where you can't see, so run your fingers under there).
That about does it for rust areas - ha ha.
Power steering box AND pump for leaks. I find pump more common.
Look for 'hunting' idle as this can be a plethora of things but can be caused by ECU which are hard to find good ones of, and stupid expensive new or refurb'd.
Clonk going into reverse - likely to be the rear A-Frame ball joint (referred to as bush above) not expensive, but a bugger to replace. Could also be worse....
Check all the electrics, special attention to the heater as if it doesn't blow on any speed, the motor may be gone which is an entire lower dash out job. If works on 'high' only, it'll be the resistor that lives under the decker panel.
I've got an '88 just now, so if any other questions, give me a shout.
Best of luck!
Hugo.
Rear BODY crossmember (not chassis) rots away. Can see it better from underneath the rear looking up towards the tailgate. Lift carpets and check boot floor also.
Rear seat belt mounts - look up in the wheelarch for rust and also give the seatbelt mount a waggle. Push up from underneath with your thumb to check for 'softness'.
Sills - mentioned already but a BIG job to replace if they are rotten.
Inner wings - easy to spot most of this
Tailgate upper - rust like hell and very hard to find a good one, or as I am finding, very hard to find an alloy replacement.
Bottom tailgate - along the bottom edge (where you can't see, so run your fingers under there).
That about does it for rust areas - ha ha.
Power steering box AND pump for leaks. I find pump more common.
Look for 'hunting' idle as this can be a plethora of things but can be caused by ECU which are hard to find good ones of, and stupid expensive new or refurb'd.
Clonk going into reverse - likely to be the rear A-Frame ball joint (referred to as bush above) not expensive, but a bugger to replace. Could also be worse....
Check all the electrics, special attention to the heater as if it doesn't blow on any speed, the motor may be gone which is an entire lower dash out job. If works on 'high' only, it'll be the resistor that lives under the decker panel.
I've got an '88 just now, so if any other questions, give me a shout.
Best of luck!
Hugo.
1988 Range Rover Classic 3.5V8 EFi
Still, well worth waiting for the right one!
At this stage he is just looking in christchurch but is going up north for the summer in afew weeks so will look up there then. And for the guys saying buy a toyota can you give it a rest. I have a toyota and so do most of my mates. They are great trucks but my mate is looking for a rangie and what i want from this thred is to get the info to help him get a good one. So unless you have something helpfull to say then bugger off.
Pete
Pete