Suspension designs

Garage talk. Anything from mounting a winch to water proofing the electrics.
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De-Ranged
Hard Yaka
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Joined: Tue Apr 06, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: Hawkes Bay

Post by De-Ranged »

do u think going to coil over would help this?


Yes it could but take your time to plan it out first the link calculator refered to above is good just remeber when working it out also do the calculations for it sitting abit taller this is for when you climb... your weight is loaded onto the linkages not through the suspension so you'll sit taller
What has caused the traction issue is most likly to much antisquat this causes the rear end to rise under traction when climbing till it gets to a certan piont and the geometry changes, you lose traction and it drops then it grabs again... if this is whats been happening try a limiting strap ontop of the diff head this will let the wheels articulate but stop the axle loading and changing geometry :wink: also alot easyer than new suspension :lol:

Cheers Reece
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KiwiBacon
Hard Yaka
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Location: Wet Coast

Post by KiwiBacon »

tpft wrote:i get chatter and bounce from rear end on steep hills when i hit bumps,
at the moment running leafs and decent shocks in c class zuk.

do u think going to coil over would help this?
it gets the whole rocking "lose traction gain traction" thing going on
front is custom coils and links and works good, rear end sucks i was hoping too somewhat tune it out for now............if possible.
i don,t think that much articulation is needed for a trials rig just predicatble
compression and rebound

thoughts?


I think you'd get the most benefit with a well thought out anti-tramp setup. As well as stopping spring wrap, with the right geometry you can modify the antisquat (jacking) of the suspension to stop the hopping.
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tpft
Hard Yaka
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Post by tpft »

like this?


Image
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KiwiBacon
Hard Yaka
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Joined: Sat Sep 29, 2007 12:00 pm
Location: Wet Coast

Post by KiwiBacon »

tpft wrote:like this?


Image


Possibly.
There are many different configuations, which one will work depends on your current suspension layout (shackles, spring length etc), wheelbase and centre of gravity location.

The first step is to get a side on picture of your rig (can be simple drawing), dot in the suspension links (or leaves) and find the centre of gravity.
Ways of finding the centre of gravity are weighing each axle (gives you fore/aft location with a little maths) then lifting one end while still weighing the axle that's still on the ground. The height of lift and the weight change gives the height of the centre of gravity.
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