well you all know how i was making diff breathers right well i finished the back one but wen i went to do the front one i snapped the bit that went into the hole ontop of the diff so how do i get this out??? i know im going to have to drop the diff but how do i get the threads out of the hole???
Thanks guys i realy want to do the be for the ORE bbq plz!!!
help plz! with diff problem
Thats the EZY OUT. they are not a drill. Its a tapered reverse thread bit that looks like a drill. You ease them in after finding the right size one and twist the remaining thread out. You have to be carefull given the main reason you broke the original bit is that its stuck. Dont force it or youll break the ezyout off in the thread. They are hardend so are a mission to drill out if you cock it up.
I am not trying to be a dick here but your posts are hard to understand due to the spelling and punctuation you use. Perhaps spend a couple of minutes thinking about what you are going to write before you post or write in word or something like that which has a spell checker etc.
Onto your fitting problem..... Did you use a right angled fitting or a straight up and down? Where has the fitting broken off? Is any of it sticking out?
You might be able to get some vice grips and lock onto whatever is remaining and wind it out. If the fitting has exposed the hollow centre of it then you can probably use an ezyout as previously described. Breaking the ezyout though is a bad thing, they are ridiculous to get out.
If you cut or drill into the fitting then filings will go into the diff which is not a good thing. Even changing the oil will not get all the filings out as the breather opening is on top of the head which will cause the threads to fall onto the gears.
An alternative to dropping the diff is to undo the two engine mount bolts and crank the motor up a touch to give you enough room above the fitting.
If you have a camera phone you could post a pic of the fitting and someone could help you out a little more.
Good luck.
Cheers
Matt.
Onto your fitting problem..... Did you use a right angled fitting or a straight up and down? Where has the fitting broken off? Is any of it sticking out?
You might be able to get some vice grips and lock onto whatever is remaining and wind it out. If the fitting has exposed the hollow centre of it then you can probably use an ezyout as previously described. Breaking the ezyout though is a bad thing, they are ridiculous to get out.
If you cut or drill into the fitting then filings will go into the diff which is not a good thing. Even changing the oil will not get all the filings out as the breather opening is on top of the head which will cause the threads to fall onto the gears.
An alternative to dropping the diff is to undo the two engine mount bolts and crank the motor up a touch to give you enough room above the fitting.
If you have a camera phone you could post a pic of the fitting and someone could help you out a little more.
Good luck.
Cheers
Matt.
yes i know my spelling is crap:( but i cant help it im home schooled sorry.
And i don't have a winch or anything that i can lift the engine.
When i get the diff out i will see how far it is in there.
And i used a right angled one.
And there is nothing sticking out of the top so i cant vice grip it so yea
Sorry about my spelling again
And i don't have a winch or anything that i can lift the engine.
When i get the diff out i will see how far it is in there.
And i used a right angled one.
And there is nothing sticking out of the top so i cant vice grip it so yea
Sorry about my spelling again
That post was tons easier to read with just basic punctuation.
You don't need a winch, use some timber under the sump and jack the motor up. Might be a lot quicker than dropping the diff assembly down.
If it's broken off then the piece in the diff should be hollow and an easy out should work quite easily. You will need about 10cm of clearance to get an easy out in.
Easy out sets are quite cheap, Ripco and the like should have basic sets.
When using the easy out about 1/4-1/3 of the easy out should go into the item you are removing. This will give you a good bite when winding it out.
Matt.
You don't need a winch, use some timber under the sump and jack the motor up. Might be a lot quicker than dropping the diff assembly down.
If it's broken off then the piece in the diff should be hollow and an easy out should work quite easily. You will need about 10cm of clearance to get an easy out in.
Easy out sets are quite cheap, Ripco and the like should have basic sets.
When using the easy out about 1/4-1/3 of the easy out should go into the item you are removing. This will give you a good bite when winding it out.
Matt.
thanks matt i will look into it to morrow.
But first i have to get the new land rover then tow it back to rotorua.
Then do the lawns then tiedy (spelling<<<) the garage.
Get the easy out kit or what ever it is called then Drop the diff or lift the engine.
And get a tap and dice set to fit the new hook.
Move the gocart move the mazda tiedy up dads work shop bla bla bla bla i got a shite load of stuff to do to morrow!
But first i have to get the new land rover then tow it back to rotorua.
Then do the lawns then tiedy (spelling<<<) the garage.
Get the easy out kit or what ever it is called then Drop the diff or lift the engine.
And get a tap and dice set to fit the new hook.
Move the gocart move the mazda tiedy up dads work shop bla bla bla bla i got a shite load of stuff to do to morrow!
-
skid
- Tyre Man
- Posts: 6311
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:00 pm
- Location: WELLINGTON-0272417757
- Contact:
get hold of Dennis on ORE.
I think he runs under the name DJ
he runs a place in vegas called DJ Auto Services or something like that
I'm not sure
if you run into problems send me a PM and I'll try to get exact detaisl for ya
I think he runs under the name DJ
he runs a place in vegas called DJ Auto Services or something like that
I'm not sure
if you run into problems send me a PM and I'll try to get exact detaisl for ya
80 Series on 35" creepies, manual with twin factory lockers.
0272417757
*CHILLAX BRO.*
0272417757
*CHILLAX BRO.*
86-surf wrote:thanks matt i will look into it to morrow
And get a tap and dice set to fit the new hook.
what are you tapping? Is this for your front tow hook? I would just get new bolts to fit the nuts that are in there rather than using the ones that came with the hook. If its the same as my surf (slighly newer) then you should be able to knock off the front captive nut through a wee hole in the side of the cassis and slide a spring washer and new nut in there then try and do it up. (stronger than using the captive one) can't do much about the back one though.
Pete
Im not 100% sure what you mean. perhaps you could take a photo tomorrow. Im guessing that you got one of the new bolts on the front hole as the captive nut that i said to knock off was there is no longer there. (original holes are two on the bottom of each chassis rail at the front). And now you have the threaded captive nut at the back that the bolts that came with the new hook won't fit... If you try tapping that hole to the new thread then its likely that the nut will break its wee welds and you will be screwed. I would get a bolt that will fit into the thread that is there and when you put it in put on some anti-sieze.
hope that makes sense.
Pete
hope that makes sense.
Pete
86-surf wrote:oh ahk haha my bad.
how am i supose to fit both nuts and bolts i don't think ill be able to get the nuts into the little gap?
Jase The thing to remember with tow hooks is
if they are not mounted correctly they will kill some one
with front hooks it is the person that is kind enough to try and pull you out as it rips off the front of your truck and hits them in the back of the head.
There have been enough near misses that most people will look at the mount and if it looks at all suspect they will not tow you out.
Lots of things can be done rough and ready but NOT mounting tow hooks.
If there is thing you need to get right on you truck it is the mounting of the hooks.
There is plenty of info on here about hooks and pic's of when they are done wrong
There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance.
Hi
I havent kept up with everyones projects .. so I assume your beast is an independant front suspension model? sometimes its just as easy to drill a new hole in the top of the diff housing and weld a nut to gain extra thread depth than arse around breaking drill bits and ezy outs.
As for hooks the rule is very simple .. if you cant or dont know get someone who does know... as this will kill some one if not done properly
I'm at Ngongotaha. give me a ring on 3575170 if you are stuck..
I havent kept up with everyones projects .. so I assume your beast is an independant front suspension model? sometimes its just as easy to drill a new hole in the top of the diff housing and weld a nut to gain extra thread depth than arse around breaking drill bits and ezy outs.
As for hooks the rule is very simple .. if you cant or dont know get someone who does know... as this will kill some one if not done properly
I'm at Ngongotaha. give me a ring on 3575170 if you are stuck..
then you should be able to knock off the front captive nut through a wee hole in the side of the cassis and slide a spring washer and new nut in there then try and do it up. (stronger than using the captive one) can't do much about the back one though.
yep that works but for the rear nut , tack weld a short length of welding wire to the replacement nut then push it though the chassis opening and maneuver it over the bolt hole then screw the bolt for the bottom .. it takes practise but it can be done once the bolt has started in the nut work the wire off as you can get a long reach spanner in to tighten it.