If your doing a budget setup there is one issue that flipped arms create
When you torque your cone washers in they don't always finish up at the same height this isn't so bad in the ones that use nuts on a extra long stud like in hosehustlers at least the tierod arm is torqued right but this means the drag link arm (top one) is possibly not sitting evenly on all 4 nuts and with all the extra leverage of longer bolts
...
The other option of Nibs spacer block (matt4u) is potentially worse as there is no way to the insure the tierod arm is torqued properly and this effects your kingpin bearings
but
I know there are alot of guys out there that run em... but this is steering one of the two areas that are no compromises
(the other is brakes
) we are also following american's onto bigger and bigger tires
this just places more and more stress on the studs or bolts
Not all is lost if you want a budget setup I've been pestered by enough people that I"ve come up with a answer its not as good an answer as hi-steer arms but for less than half
I machined the casting filler ridge off the top of the tie-rod arm and same on a drivers side arm, the drivers arm also gets new cone tapers cut into the bottom so cones can be pushed in from the top when flipped, I've also got a spacer block that is a bit bigger than nibs with holes drilled large enough to fit over nuts ontop of the tire-rod arm, with this in there it pushes between the arms not the cones.... allowing you to get the maximum clamping out of the system and makes certain your cone washers are doing the best they can
Oh and if your gona do hi-steer arms I'd recomend Jaffas arms your doing a surf
yes , this means you won't have the clearance to run a extreme lift arm like mine or snake racing
oh and snake arms cost to bloody much!!
Cheers Reece
