Need Replacement Motor I think

brakes-shocks-lockers-etc
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wjw
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Need Replacement Motor I think

Post by wjw »

Big ends gone in my 1kz-te ... 5K to fix.... so am looking for other options... anyone got any bright ideas? otherwise the prado goes to the scrapie...
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MATT4U
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Post by MATT4U »

how many ideas do you want and what budget. mabe find a wrecked one for teh motor,
Can I have your manual hubs.
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wjw
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Post by wjw »

Put it this way, I have no money, have spent 3K on it replacing the turbo and cylinder head in the last 4 months. It will be 4k to recondition the motor plus the cost of taking the motor out, shipping to Christchurch and then shipping back and re-fitting, estimate is $5,500 total.

I think I have to either:

1) Find a donor and replace the motor

2) Scrap it.

3) Stick it on TradeMe with 3K as the reserve. Parts or repair.

money wise it has already bled my dry, fixing it whatever way would need a bank loan,
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Macca
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Post by Macca »

Damn that sucks :cry: , Hope you can sort it and dont have to send the old girl to the wrekers.
Have a look on trademe. think there was a 1kzte on there. had been recod' bout $2000 i think. or as matt said try getting a wreker with good engine.
Did they say what caused the bearings to go??
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wjw
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Post by wjw »

According to the recon guys its one of those things, 24's do the head, 2.8 & 3l kill bearings...
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DieselBoy
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Post by DieselBoy »

Ok Bill.
Calm down.
You always come back from these things feeling the worst.

Now. You are quite capable of pulling a motor out your self. Its piss easy if you have an engine crane, and you have made good amtes here that will help ya i'm sure

Some one here will have one.

Look for a second hand motor in Japan, or at wreckers. There should be plenty around.

BUT

You can replace big ends your self in an afternoon..

Its very very easy.

Did the ones on the safari my self just for the hell of it co's they were very cheap. Hardest part was getting the sump loose.

So ring Repco or some were like that, get your self a new set of standrd shells, and a sump gasket, pinch some one's highlift jack so you have heaps of room between the sump and the diff to work, the go for you life.

You will need a torque wrench and possibly a special star shape socket, ring toyota for bearing clearence specs and bearing cap torque settings.

Dam, i wish i was still down south, would come down and do it for ya!!!!

Its not beyond your skills mate!!!!!!!

You could do the lower main shells while your at it too, don't think you can get the uppers out with out removing the crank shaft.

All up should cost you $150 if you get aftermarket parts, and your silly not to.

I would also fit a manual oil pressure gauge.

Also, ideally, you would pull the sump off first and use some plastigauge to check the bearing clearences, to make sure that is the problem, and that you can't squeeze under sized shells in there.
Chances are you will be fine with the standards.

Its worth try before you make a huge loss on the truck.
Failing that, it may shut it up long enough to flick it off to some one, or trade it in on something else.

Get it sorted know, you gonnabe V hard up in a few months :lol: :lol: :lol:

Keep smiling man,
Pete.
Last edited by DieselBoy on Tue Oct 18, 2005 9:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
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hosehustler
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Post by hosehustler »

Hi Bill,
shame to hear about your motor, don't know if it's worth thinking about, but why not a good repower such as later mdel commodoreV6, or lexus V8, both would cost about the same as the diesel replacement :?:
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Macca
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Post by Macca »

How about this?? just saw it on tme
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 108322.htm
Im sure there could be someone on here who could help with freight.
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Post by Macca »

Just a note bill. :idea: If you need some parts from chch i may be able to help. Am heading to kurow shooting over labour weekend and my mates dad from wanaka is coming up to meet us so could get them down to you via him. Just a thought
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Post by wjw »

If I was going to pay 5k i would get Steve to fita V8... so to fix it myself I'd need:

ok so I would need:

* set of standard shells
* sump gasket
* highlift jack
* engine crane
* torque wrench
* special star shape socket
* ring toyota for bearing clearence specs and bearing cap torque settings.
* lower main shells
* manual oil pressure gauge.


The piston is knocking on the side of the casing, will that make and difference to doing all this?

Anyone got any additions?
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DieselBoy
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Post by DieselBoy »

Will not need engine crane to do big ends.
That was if you were going to save a grand by pulling the motor out your self.

A pistons doing What???

How does that work.

All i can think of is piston slap.

You can, for a very very, did i mention very, rough indication of bore wear, measure the diameter of the piston skirt at BDC and then the Bottom of the bore with the Piston a TDC

The vehicles imobile i gather, so pull the sump off and have a look your self. It will be dead obvious if its more than the big ends.
Shoot into town an grab some plasti gauge, and get going, its a half and hour job.

Then you will know where your at. From there you can choose to have a little experiment with out spending much, or go no, and throw her back to gether and flick it.

Did the guy check oil pressure, or just listen to it??

I would be inclined to check the oil pressure properly with a gauge before any of this.

He could be talking out his rear end and its something in the head.

so find out if he checked the oil pressure, if not, then do it your self.

If its shite, then get the tools out my friend............. :wink:
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DieselBoy
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Post by DieselBoy »

You will need to:

Drain oil

Vacum the floor in the garage

Get a big supply of very very clean rags

Remove Glow plugs

Jack front end up and stabilise

Undo the millions of sump bolts

Hit sump with rubber hammer untill it comes loose

Have a bit of a look around to familiarize your self with whats what.

Number bearing caps

Mark orientation of caps

Undo a bearing cap

DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK SHAFT WITH A MAIN CAP OFF!!!!

Insert strip of plasitgauge

Put cap back on and re-tighten, don't get to carried away with the correct torue, just roughly.

Remove cap again and assess plastigauge thickness.

Compare to factory specs from Toyota

Repeat for the remaining, you only have four so it won't take to long.

Decide if your going with standards or under size.

On replacing new shells, coat everything in oil, and keep CLEAN!!!


Notes:

You can check little ends when the big end is out holding the con rod and moving up and down. Lateral movement is normal, its the straight up and down. You may not want to know though.

Removing the glow plugs makes the engine easier to rotate.

Sump bolts don't generaly do up tight.
Last edited by DieselBoy on Tue Oct 18, 2005 12:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DieselBoy »

Did the guy crack the injector lines one at a time??

Was he a specilist Diesel mechanic??

Diesel noises can out fox the best petrol engine mechanics.

Where's DJ at??

DJ........................

Diesel knock from an injector not properly fitted, or damaged when they were doing your head work can sound astonishingly like knackered big ends.
Its a V common Nissan trait. Fuel systems on those things are crap.

Anyhow, by cracking the injectors one at a time, the noise may go away, then you have your culpret.

The oil pressure sender unit on those 3L Toyo's is behind the oil filter. Mongrel place!!!!
May need to get creative to check the oil pressure.
That is also why i doubt they guy would have done it!!!
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Post by Conan »

take heed to the advice bill!!! could be a piss easy problem that some slanty eyed southland mechanic is to lazy to diagnose! (no offence to any thou !! :D )
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Post by wjw »

Just waiting on Pinky to get back to me with a price, he reckons he might be able to fix it cheaper.

Although I need a garage or at least a covered area to take the motor out.
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Post by DieselBoy »

DIY rebuild??
Could be done if you have the time.
The main things you will need to get done at a shop in Chch is the grinding of the crank shaft, the honeing of the bores, and possibly some cam shaft TLC.

Ask around and see if bits are interchangeable from other Toyo motors. eg, Nissan TD27 pistons and rings fit the TD42 and cost half as much.....

The other side of it is that you have one of the best and most capable 4x4's of the show room floor these days. What would you replace it with??
A VX??
A LR??
A Pootrol??


What i'm getting at is that design wise etc etc its an awsome vehicle, live axles, coils its all there.

So it IS worth fixing, as there's nothing much out there that compares to replace it with.

I have been in your situation with my old surf.......

I ended up flicking it for what i could get and picked up the Terrano from the auctions.

Another one to think about is say you had to spend 5K on engine.
To flick the vehicle as is $1500-$2000?? may be less.

So say $6500 in your pocket all going well

Would you be able to buy a replacement stronger vehicle for that much??

Maybe in the nrth island.
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wjw
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Post by wjw »

Well a young man east of me is a star :D :D :D :D :D :D :D who I will owe lots of beer to soon... (Won't name names in case everyone else tries to get hold of him ;)

Thanks for calling him Steve

Anyway, truck is saved :)

Thanks mate... thread closed

Cheers for the help DB, if I was in CHC I would have enlisted local help to get it done, but as I'm down here, I'm a bit on a limb...
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DieselBoy
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Post by DieselBoy »

Good to hear Bill, i'm pleased, cheers to Mr Anonymous 8) 8) (how do you spell that??)
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Post by tristanp »

just out of interest, was it somthing simple?
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Post by cromcruiser »

:cry: :cry: Hi bill sorry to see the cruiser packing up let us know if you want help Alistair
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Post by SupraLux »

No worries Bill, actually it was *mr nice anonymous guy* who called me, just after I got off the phone from someone else seeing if I could find you a motor. I mentioned it as an aside and it all happened from there...

Funny how things work out... Keep me posted how it goes...

Steve
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Post by wjw »

It is indeed, supposed to be getting a job offer through today too.... hopefully this will be the last problem with the truck for a little while :o
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DieselBoy
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Post by DieselBoy »

Look after your gear box then :shock: :shock:
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Post by albundy »

Shit Bill you are a worry at times. Good to hear things worked out all right. Don't just look after the gearbox, do the whole bloody truck. Cleaning it occassionally could be a good start :lol: :lol: . I will never forget the sound of yor hub shearing in half. :evil:
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Post by wjw »

I have been looking after it.... its the previous owners that didnt ;)
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Post by oldblue »

Good to hear that all is ok with your Prado.
Would it be to cheeky to ask wat the problem was,as like me, a few would of liked to know, who no's it my happen to us.
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Post by Bubba »

oldblue wrote:Good to hear that all is ok with your Prado.
Would it be to cheeky to ask wat the problem was,as like me, a few would of liked to know, who no's it my happen to us.


here here, tell us more

This thing played out like a TV drama! Complete with happy ending. I have to give a big "ups" to all those that pitched in and rallied to Bills (?) aid. You fellows are to much!
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wjw
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Post by wjw »

its not repaired yet... but I have a man who will fix it for me... just need to find myself a tow truck or flatbed to borrow for a few days to get it to him....

watcdh this space
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wjw
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Post by wjw »

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Post by Mongoose »

Do it, dooooooooooooo itttttttttttttttttttttt. Listen to the voices in your head :twisted:
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