Double brake - Brakes do not work like proper brakes !!!
- MAHINDRACJ4A
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Double brake - Brakes do not work like proper brakes !!!
hey guys
iv got a master cyl from a surf that i have put into the mahindra and to make the brakes work i have to push the pedal twice, if i push it once the brakes hardly work but then on the second push they work perfectly
what could be the problem i have bleeded the brakes about 4 times now maybe i need to do it agian a differant way perhaps ?
iv got a master cyl from a surf that i have put into the mahindra and to make the brakes work i have to push the pedal twice, if i push it once the brakes hardly work but then on the second push they work perfectly
what could be the problem i have bleeded the brakes about 4 times now maybe i need to do it agian a differant way perhaps ?

1977 Mahindra CJ4A - 1GGTE 260hp Supra Engine - 3" Lift
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- MAHINDRACJ4A
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- Sadam_Husain
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- MAHINDRACJ4A
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Jerry wrote:When you put the master cyl in did you bleed the cylinder first then the brakes
If not take the break lines off and bleed it first.
otherwise you just keep compressing the air in the cylinder and force more are through the system
I did mine holding a piece of tyre rubber over the 2 holes and got my wife to slowly pump the peddle the rubber lets the air & fluid out and does not let the air back in when you lift your foot.
then very slowly push the peddle down as you reconnect tubes
There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance.
- mike
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I would say that saddam hit the nail on the head. is your handbrake good or has it a lot of travel. If they dont seem to be adjusting up by itself(read bad handbrake lots of travel) then take those rear drums off, adjust a few clicks on the adjuster and check the drum still slides over. If there is a lip on the drum then youll just have to hope they adjust up the final bit by themselves otherwise youll need to grind the lip off get it machined off.
Mike
Mike
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1994 Toyota Surf
- MAHINDRACJ4A
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turoa wrote:MAHINDRACJ4A wrote:i just bleeded the four wheels
and i have drum front and rear
That might be your problem there![]()
Drums require more fluid than discs so something with discs in the front will be pushing out less fluid![]()
Correct me if im wrong. After the second pump is the pedal hard?
ya reckon??
Had the same problem on lil pig after I put discs on rear end, thought it was the callipers need more fluid than the drums that caused it??
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If after 2 pumps of the pedal you had a good hard pedal...ie not spongey there isnt air in the system.
Its more likely that the master cylinder isnt matched correctly to the brakes.The amount of fliud that is being put into the lines isnt enough to make the pistons move to put pressure on the pads & shoes to stop.Thats why when you pump it again it works.
Usually in a master cylinder designed for dics front & drum rear the cylinder is effectively 2 master cylinders in one.The reserervior is split in half & also the "pump" is split in half also.1 push of the pedal will deliver an amount of fluid to the disc & different amount to the shoes.Thats why its so important to have a master cylinder that matches the needs of the disc calipers & the slave cylinders.
Its more likely that the master cylinder isnt matched correctly to the brakes.The amount of fliud that is being put into the lines isnt enough to make the pistons move to put pressure on the pads & shoes to stop.Thats why when you pump it again it works.
Usually in a master cylinder designed for dics front & drum rear the cylinder is effectively 2 master cylinders in one.The reserervior is split in half & also the "pump" is split in half also.1 push of the pedal will deliver an amount of fluid to the disc & different amount to the shoes.Thats why its so important to have a master cylinder that matches the needs of the disc calipers & the slave cylinders.
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Drum brakes require a residual pressure valve in the master cylinder to maintain pressure to the wheel cylinders.
If pressure is not kept at the wheel cylinders then the springs will cause the shoes to fully retract which will mean that you need a greater amount of travel to get the shoes to touch the drums.
The valve is removable I think on the Hilux master cylinder, it will have one in the fitting on the master cylinder that runs to the rear brakes. Get another one off another cylinder and fit it to the front line.
The bigger question is why haven't you fitted front discs with all that power?
Matt.
If pressure is not kept at the wheel cylinders then the springs will cause the shoes to fully retract which will mean that you need a greater amount of travel to get the shoes to touch the drums.
The valve is removable I think on the Hilux master cylinder, it will have one in the fitting on the master cylinder that runs to the rear brakes. Get another one off another cylinder and fit it to the front line.
The bigger question is why haven't you fitted front discs with all that power?
Matt.
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do you have a picture of this valve thing tou are talking about ?
ha ha well just dont want to do the disc set up yet its still got the 3speed gearbox with a final drive of 1:1 and a diff of 5.88 so its never going to go too fast
aparenty been told by jeepers overseas that you must have big balls to do over 100km in a cj4a/cj3b jeep
ha ha well just dont want to do the disc set up yet its still got the 3speed gearbox with a final drive of 1:1 and a diff of 5.88 so its never going to go too fast
aparenty been told by jeepers overseas that you must have big balls to do over 100km in a cj4a/cj3b jeep


1977 Mahindra CJ4A - 1GGTE 260hp Supra Engine - 3" Lift
Jerry wrote:Hilux master cyl bore is 25mm
Nope, 80-series cruiser is 25.4mm (1"), the Hilux is a 22mm (7/8") from memory.
And Mr T, I think its the other way around, drums use less fluid to activate than discs...
Personally, I'd be looking to double-check the bleeding of the system - maybe get a full-system pressure-bleed done at somewhere like Safe-R-Brakes...
Steve