fj45 rat rod (ish)
Re: fj40 rat rod
thats exactly what im after with my one, what do we call it?
would it be a rot rod, or a hat rod?
would it be a rot rod, or a hat rod?
Re: fj40 rat rod
None of these are what you are going for then?








http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehicul ... style.html








http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehicul ... style.html
Re: fj40 rat rod
Any one of those would be grand... go to it!!!
Re: fj40 rat rod
niblik wrote:you should then add some tints to the ride to keep it cooler in summer.. not just any tints though.. some of those chrome/mirror look styles to add bling to your ride.. with chrome handles etc it'll really 'pop'..
then chuck on a tonneau cover and tow hook..
and a swish double din stereo....
Thats a good idea. I'll add it to the list...
Re: fj40 rat rod
rokhound wrote:I think you guys are being too "purist" with the whole Rat Rod thing.
What I belive Heath is after (and correct me if I'm wrong, it has happened once before) is more the look or concept of a ratty ( ie real low, fat boots, and loud fee8 all in a vehicle that should'nt be a contender for that sort of mod ie it is too agricultural or commercial). I think you will find he will want it straight as a die, lots of blingy bits (chromed or shiney) and a nice coat of paint when all done. That's how I would do it anyways if it was mine. Not really a rat rod but IMO way better.![]()
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Carry on the cool project Heath
Got it almost completely.
During the build phase it will be a bit ratty but when its finished I want something different (and pisses off the hot rod heirachy with it being agricultural and a jappa) and something I will be afraid to park in the usual places. Of course it will take a while to get there (if it ever does) and will be ratty for most of that time.
Re: fj40 rat rod
Liking the jeep rod lots.
That landie is cool too and I dont think it would look right all straight and shiney.
Never know the hj45 might end up with a custom distressed paint job (lots of different coats of paint and some wet and dry over the higher surfaces/usual wear points) when it comes to the final colour choice.
Chrome is proving to be too expensive but the door handles will probably be chrome as I cant get any others and these will be fine.
That landie is cool too and I dont think it would look right all straight and shiney.
Never know the hj45 might end up with a custom distressed paint job (lots of different coats of paint and some wet and dry over the higher surfaces/usual wear points) when it comes to the final colour choice.
Chrome is proving to be too expensive but the door handles will probably be chrome as I cant get any others and these will be fine.
Re: fj40 rat rod
those landys look bloody cool. id love to do one of them.
or one of the 100 inch landys on a rover chassis.
or one of the 100 inch landys on a rover chassis.
Re: fj40 rat rod
Getting prepped to cut the cab tomorrow (got foggy flu brain at the moment).
Spent ages with tape, ruler, straight edge and a pen, making cut lines and then redoing them.
The sat down and went over the whole proceedure in my head, then removed all the tape and redid it as I wasnt happy with where I was going to have to weld. Not quite the simple job I first thought as some pannels are riveted in and others spot welded (will weld where the rivets are I think).
Talk about measure twice, cut once. Going to be measured a pile of times before I cut anything.
Decided to walk away and come back tomorrow when my head was clear and if I am honest I am a little scared of making the first cuts (LOL).
Need to cut this bit to get some steel for the roof repairs (didnt make it to steel and tube in time) and then I'll tackle the windscreen cut and the triple wiper mod (well I will if I can find another donor screen for parts.)
Pics to come.
Spent ages with tape, ruler, straight edge and a pen, making cut lines and then redoing them.
The sat down and went over the whole proceedure in my head, then removed all the tape and redid it as I wasnt happy with where I was going to have to weld. Not quite the simple job I first thought as some pannels are riveted in and others spot welded (will weld where the rivets are I think).
Talk about measure twice, cut once. Going to be measured a pile of times before I cut anything.
Decided to walk away and come back tomorrow when my head was clear and if I am honest I am a little scared of making the first cuts (LOL).
Need to cut this bit to get some steel for the roof repairs (didnt make it to steel and tube in time) and then I'll tackle the windscreen cut and the triple wiper mod (well I will if I can find another donor screen for parts.)
Pics to come.
Re: fj40 rat rod
HQ ute chassis secured for the rod. Sorted, I think.


Re: fj40 rat rod
Ready to cut.

Made the cuts (took ages with my air cutter - not enough air flow from my compressor), did the complex cuts with the cutter and a saw and then got a 4 inch grinder out for the more coarse cuts.


Tacked the panel halves together to make moving them around a little easier and to get an idea of how much fiddling I have to do. Some of my cuts are not quite perfect so I will have to do a little adjusting/cutting and remeasure everything to make sure its all straight and even before finally welding everything up fully.


I made sure I took my time, had all the safety gear on but couldnt find my leather gloves so stayed with my rubberised safety ones which was all good until I got a blob of hot weld hit my knuckle (ouch) so will dig the leathers out next time.
Of course a good day has to be tarnished in some way and mine ended up that way too. While putting everything away I knocked over the little CO2 bottle and it fell onto the contents guage, buggering it completely. It doesnt leak so its staying put but I need to get a replacement now - not happy at the time (still grumpy about it).

I need to find some cutting discs for my grinder for the big jobs and leave the little stuff for the air cutter.
Going to fit a roll bar and do the cert process for a convertible so this will be a removable hard top.

Made the cuts (took ages with my air cutter - not enough air flow from my compressor), did the complex cuts with the cutter and a saw and then got a 4 inch grinder out for the more coarse cuts.


Tacked the panel halves together to make moving them around a little easier and to get an idea of how much fiddling I have to do. Some of my cuts are not quite perfect so I will have to do a little adjusting/cutting and remeasure everything to make sure its all straight and even before finally welding everything up fully.


I made sure I took my time, had all the safety gear on but couldnt find my leather gloves so stayed with my rubberised safety ones which was all good until I got a blob of hot weld hit my knuckle (ouch) so will dig the leathers out next time.
Of course a good day has to be tarnished in some way and mine ended up that way too. While putting everything away I knocked over the little CO2 bottle and it fell onto the contents guage, buggering it completely. It doesnt leak so its staying put but I need to get a replacement now - not happy at the time (still grumpy about it).

I need to find some cutting discs for my grinder for the big jobs and leave the little stuff for the air cutter.
Going to fit a roll bar and do the cert process for a convertible so this will be a removable hard top.
Re: fj40 rat rod
Sorted a chassis (HQ or wb I think) and need to sort some mounts for tranny and engine. I like the sound of captive mounts (had issues with a hilux I had years ago when a mount failed).
Is there a simple captive mount suitable for 350chev/holden chassis that utilises the std mount points.
Also is/was there a factory th350 trans mount or should I just modify the std one?
Just waiting to get the chassis delivered so I can get the engine out of the garage and fitted.
On a less positive note this holiday break sux. I havent had any "tooltime" at all other than my first day and since then the outlaws and the missus have conspired against me (not consciously I guess - but screwed all my plans nonetheless).
Is there a simple captive mount suitable for 350chev/holden chassis that utilises the std mount points.
Also is/was there a factory th350 trans mount or should I just modify the std one?
Just waiting to get the chassis delivered so I can get the engine out of the garage and fitted.
On a less positive note this holiday break sux. I havent had any "tooltime" at all other than my first day and since then the outlaws and the missus have conspired against me (not consciously I guess - but screwed all my plans nonetheless).

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Re: fj40 rat rod
Heath get the 1.0mm wheels for your grinder theyre the ducks nuts and a hell of a lot neater than the 2.0mm ones well at least they are when I use them
Re: fj40 rat rod
Grabbed a pile of the 1mm discs for tomorrow, but on a positive note I got the cab off and the chassis is now ready to be removed by who ever buys it.

Heres the bits I want to keep.


Heres the bits I want to keep.

Re: fj40 rat rod
Some new bits turned up today.

HQ/WB ute chassis.

Diff is a V8 one so should be strong enough. The lugs on the top intrigue me though (WTF are they for) This has leaf saddles on the bottom but it may have been "fiddled with".
Just need to vanish the old chassis as my "Outdoor Man Space" is becoming cluttered (wifes words not mine, I thought it was starting to look ordered and manly). $400 and its anyones (rolling chassis, power steering box too - I think - I'll check if anyone is interested)

HQ/WB ute chassis.

Diff is a V8 one so should be strong enough. The lugs on the top intrigue me though (WTF are they for) This has leaf saddles on the bottom but it may have been "fiddled with".
Just need to vanish the old chassis as my "Outdoor Man Space" is becoming cluttered (wifes words not mine, I thought it was starting to look ordered and manly). $400 and its anyones (rolling chassis, power steering box too - I think - I'll check if anyone is interested)
Re: fj40 rat rod
All the cars run a 4 link set up and thats where the bushes for the top links go.All ute diffs have them but they are not machined out for the bushes,they just fit the saddles for the leaf spring,cheers.
Re: fj40 rat rod
klompy wrote:All the cars run a 4 link set up and thats where the bushes for the top links go.All ute diffs have them but they are not machined out for the bushes,they just fit the saddles for the leaf spring,cheers.
Cheers man. Now my mystery is solved.
Perhaps a good place for the diff stabiliser mount...

Re: fj40 rat rod
Was working today and thinking about everything but work when I realised the new chassis (WB holden) is quite square in shape from almost directly behind the engine bay(1450ishmm) and the the hj45 cab is tapered (front is 1350ishmm , rear is 1500ishmm).
So it appears that I will be adjusting the new chassis, but on the plus side I can make the new chassis match up with the cabs factory body mount points.
Just need to figure out how the feck to do it now. Maybe some box/rectangle steel cut and welded in to the right shape, then cut off the other bits and plate the cut area. I'm guessing I will have to sort out some support plates to strengthen the whole area. Might make em really long and run them a good 200mm either side of the joins (or more).
What size steel boxing (4mm?)/plates (6mm?) should I be considering for this? Chassis looks to be about 3mm.
Cheers.
So it appears that I will be adjusting the new chassis, but on the plus side I can make the new chassis match up with the cabs factory body mount points.
Just need to figure out how the feck to do it now. Maybe some box/rectangle steel cut and welded in to the right shape, then cut off the other bits and plate the cut area. I'm guessing I will have to sort out some support plates to strengthen the whole area. Might make em really long and run them a good 200mm either side of the joins (or more).
What size steel boxing (4mm?)/plates (6mm?) should I be considering for this? Chassis looks to be about 3mm.
Cheers.
Re: fj40 rat rod
Narrow the whole chassis. make a few new cross members in the right places and bobs your uncle
Toy - Zuk chassis tub, hilux 4.88 axles and transfer, Nissan CA18DE motor and auto trans, sc12 supercharger, 32 10'5 simex, twin motor 8274 custom freespool. Well the parts are all there in various corners of the shed
Re: fj40 rat rod
Nah the width is fine every where but at the front of the cab.
I'll narrow just the front (cut the corners off and angle them in a little), which can allow me to make up the frame to sort the body mounts (nice and simple).
Just got to sort out how to do it (steel sizes etc). Would've been great to just drop the body on but these things happen and It gives me some more welding practice to do.
I'll narrow just the front (cut the corners off and angle them in a little), which can allow me to make up the frame to sort the body mounts (nice and simple).
Just got to sort out how to do it (steel sizes etc). Would've been great to just drop the body on but these things happen and It gives me some more welding practice to do.

Re: fj40 rat rod
Can anyone advise me if there is a correct/legal way to mount a 350chev into a WB chassis?
I bought some chev engine mounts and was going to use some chassis adapters but I have since been advised by a guy with a chev in his holden that I have to use Holden chassis mount with chev engine adapters to get this thing certed.
Now I dont know which way to go or which way is legal (or the best way to get certed).
Anyone care to shed some light on which way is right (or are they both okay)?
Cheers,
Heath
I bought some chev engine mounts and was going to use some chassis adapters but I have since been advised by a guy with a chev in his holden that I have to use Holden chassis mount with chev engine adapters to get this thing certed.
Now I dont know which way to go or which way is legal (or the best way to get certed).
Anyone care to shed some light on which way is right (or are they both okay)?
Cheers,
Heath
Re: fj40 rat rod
As you will most likely have to go down the route of scratch built certification,
its pretty much up to you.
just make sure the mounts are strong enough on the chassis and you should be alright.
the reason the guy had to use holden adaptors is because he was doing an engine swap. he would have been in a whole different ballgame under the name "low volume"
if you want my mates got the hobby car manual i could ask him to have a look if ya want?
or if your really unsure, ring the certifier you are going to use, he will tell you.
its pretty much up to you.
just make sure the mounts are strong enough on the chassis and you should be alright.
the reason the guy had to use holden adaptors is because he was doing an engine swap. he would have been in a whole different ballgame under the name "low volume"
if you want my mates got the hobby car manual i could ask him to have a look if ya want?
or if your really unsure, ring the certifier you are going to use, he will tell you.
Re: fj40 rat rod
Got a hobby car manual on its way.
Decided to bite the bullet and buy one. Seems a small cost when you consider the cost of the whole build.
Might go with Holden mounts and get some chev adapters (they look well made and are cheaper than any NZ options I've found so far - from Aussie), just have to return the chev mounts I bought on Sat (will swap them I hope). A full set of bushes and tierods etc from aussie is around $300 where just 4 bushes here was $240 (might shop overthere for them too - oh and shocks as well).
Why do we get bent over and ..... for parts in NZ? Small market I guess with no buying power.
Decided to bite the bullet and buy one. Seems a small cost when you consider the cost of the whole build.
Might go with Holden mounts and get some chev adapters (they look well made and are cheaper than any NZ options I've found so far - from Aussie), just have to return the chev mounts I bought on Sat (will swap them I hope). A full set of bushes and tierods etc from aussie is around $300 where just 4 bushes here was $240 (might shop overthere for them too - oh and shocks as well).
Why do we get bent over and ..... for parts in NZ? Small market I guess with no buying power.
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Re: fj40 rat rod
Heath wrote:Can anyone advise me if there is a correct/legal way to mount a 350chev into a WB chassis?
Cheers,
Heath
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Re: fj40 rat rod
Holdens came with 350 motors so all you need are the correct engine mounts and it will bolt in.They are easy to make and often for sale on trade me so if you can find an auction you will see how simple they are.
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Re: fj40 rat rod
before you commit to using factory 350 mounts in the holden chassis you probably want to do a trial fit of the body and engine to see where everythings going to sit, you might have to shift the engine about a bit to make it all fit
Re: fj40 rat rod
Small update (if it can be called that).
Possibly the most expensive book I have ever purchased has arrived.
Hobby car technical manual has arrived. Man is it full of good stuff. Within a few hours of reading I have come to the realisation that some of my ideas arent going to be put into action. All good as now I can make sure it all meets the rules. Will sort my details/plans and then have a chat with a certifier to make sure its all within his interpretation of the rules too.
With the 45 chassis being still here I am going to rob some bits off it before I cut it up for scrap and sell the axles etc off seperately.
Possibly the most expensive book I have ever purchased has arrived.
Hobby car technical manual has arrived. Man is it full of good stuff. Within a few hours of reading I have come to the realisation that some of my ideas arent going to be put into action. All good as now I can make sure it all meets the rules. Will sort my details/plans and then have a chat with a certifier to make sure its all within his interpretation of the rules too.
With the 45 chassis being still here I am going to rob some bits off it before I cut it up for scrap and sell the axles etc off seperately.
Re: fj40 rat rod
this is one cool looking build keep it up mate! 

Re: fj40 rat rod
Heath wrote:Small update (if it can be called that).
Possibly the most expensive book I have ever purchased has arrived.
Hobby car technical manual has arrived.
one main reason i havnt really started mine yet....
Re: fj40 rat rod
Sadam_Husain wrote:before you commit to using factory 350 mounts in the holden chassis you probably want to do a trial fit of the body and engine to see where everythings going to sit, you might have to shift the engine about a bit to make it all fit
Going to mount the engine/trans and then plonk the body on and move it around until I am happy with where it will sit before I commit to chopping any steel.
Measure, measure, measure, get cutting gear out , rethink, measure measure, measure, put gear away, have beer and stare at the problem until I come up with another plan and then start the process again...
