Offroad-Express

yep i can confirm yeti's jeep still goes after a trip and over the hill he broke it on last time he was out there!!
as for mine
have done some more work to the tailgate bit hard to look/work on that when i have new toy sitting beside it!

Fitted a YJ rear brake line and JKS disconnects yesterday.

Bit of a 3-ring circus getting one of the lower sway bar mounts off. They're pressed in and have splines so you can't unscrew them and based on the second one I'd recommend just grinding the Torx head off and then tightening the nut against the original end link to form a puller to pull the bolt out. For the first one I stupidly ground the threaded end off as well and tried to drill out the last bit, but after buggering half a set of HSS bits to get maybe an 8mm hole I made a puller with a long bolt with a small enough head to pass through the 13mm original hole and it came out just as easily as the other side.

I also screwed up bleeding the brakes by not keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir (doh!), so I need to go out and get more fluid and it will be getting a full change which is no bad thing looking at the colour of what was coming out. The YJ hose was only $37 or so from Greg and fits straight on but gives another 3 inches or so (at a guess) to allow safer full droop of the rear axle.

Fen wrote:Fitted a YJ rear brake line and JKS disconnects yesterday.

Bit of a 3-ring circus getting one of the lower sway bar mounts off. They're pressed in and have splines so you can't unscrew them and based on the second one I'd recommend just grinding the Torx head off and then tightening the nut against the original end link to form a puller to pull the bolt out. For the first one I stupidly ground the threaded end off as well and tried to drill out the last bit, but after buggering half a set of HSS bits to get maybe an 8mm hole I made a puller with a long bolt with a small enough head to pass through the 13mm original hole and it came out just as easily as the other side.

I also screwed up bleeding the brakes by not keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir (doh!), so I need to go out and get more fluid and it will be getting a full change which is no bad thing looking at the colour of what was coming out. The YJ hose was only $37 or so from Greg and fits straight on but gives another 3 inches or so (at a guess) to allow safer full droop of the rear axle.

so loosening off the nut, applying leverage with a big as crowbar, and swing a bigger as hammer at it didnt work?

$37.00 is a pretty cheap peace of mind aye.

xj wrote:

Fen wrote:Fitted a YJ rear brake line and JKS disconnects yesterday.

Bit of a 3-ring circus getting one of the lower sway bar mounts off. They're pressed in and have splines so you can't unscrew them and based on the second one I'd recommend just grinding the Torx head off and then tightening the nut against the original end link to form a puller to pull the bolt out. For the first one I stupidly ground the threaded end off as well and tried to drill out the last bit, but after buggering half a set of HSS bits to get maybe an 8mm hole I made a puller with a long bolt with a small enough head to pass through the 13mm original hole and it came out just as easily as the other side.

I also screwed up bleeding the brakes by not keeping an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir (doh!), so I need to go out and get more fluid and it will be getting a full change which is no bad thing looking at the colour of what was coming out. The YJ hose was only $37 or so from Greg and fits straight on but gives another 3 inches or so (at a guess) to allow safer full droop of the rear axle.

so loosening off the nut, applying leverage with a big as crowbar, and swing a bigger as hammer at it didnt work?

$37.00 is a pretty cheap peace of mind aye.

worked for me.....

Hammers are OK, but if you don't plug it in or put petrol in it then it isn't a real tool, and it's not modified unless you've used a grinder on it

just cleaning all the mud of it now in between downpoors so i can get it towed tomor and hope to get it going early next week to get it all dirty agin

opened the garage... looked at the mud on mine, contemplated doing the battery lead terminals so i could drive it down to washworld, looked at the sky, looked at the wife, walked back inside and got dinner on.... (meh - shrug)

Fitted a pair of front recovery point brackets from HiCountry Offroad in the States. They fit well but the instructions weren't great and having a factory front bash plate made it trickier than they suggested. I got to use my angle grinder though

took the bus to wash world, dear old wash world. Cleaned the meadows off from under everything. Have adj arms coming from the states for her, usps were notified on 21st that they were ready for pickup... and still nothing else on their track and trace... starting to get tetchy.

Decided to wash the underside to get ready for the lower control arms. Thought might just wash the rest of it!!

Since I was all dirty, decided to continue and wash the WG as well.

Now that the outsides were so clean, went ahead and cleaned the insides and vacuumed!

Man, what started off as a half an hour hosing down ended up being a three hour job. I couldn't find the wax or else I would have done that too.

Lower arms are on their way somewhere in transit.

Been having Earthing issues, so put new terminals on, and now ive got indicator lights on when pressing the brake, and all sorts of shenanigans!!

xj wrote: now ive got indicator lights on when pressing the brake, and all sorts of shenanigans!!

shit xj ,i just thought that was normal.....

xj wrote:Been having Earthing issues, so put new terminals on, and now ive got indicator lights on when pressing the brake, and all sorts of shenanigans!!

Might be a long shot, but check the brake switch on your brake pedal. Might be time to replace. Otherwise one of the rear tail lights is shorting out somewhere (possibly). Hey at least the wipers don't come on when you press the brake!!! (Someone on Jeepforum was trying to fix that convenient feature on his recent acquisition).

pretty sure its a shitty earth in the left rear, getting some LED's so ill sort it out when i do the change.

xj wrote:pretty sure its a shitty earth in the left rear, getting some LED's so ill sort it out when i do the change.

That would be a strong possibility as that is where the main bunch of cables goes to the back (along the passenger side door).

On the way back from Hamilton this evening I crossed a milestone in my TJ:

today i checked on the USPS track and confirm featrue again to see if there was any info on where in the world my control arms might be.....
Made it from north Carolina to New Jersey in only 10 days, not bad for Pony Express. Considering they say that the delivery time is between 6 to 10 days to NZ im picking they might be late.

Fri 9 Oct.... climbed underneath and looked at them upper control arms again.... ahh bliss....

Sunday 11 Oct:

Shot over to a mates place who has a TJ on 35s with the stock trans x-member and did a measure to compare. His has 391mm ground to centre of his plate. Mine (on 33's) has 416mm ground to centre of the new plate. Weehee, got 1 inch on em, bugger though that hes always going to have diff clearance on me though

Noticed theough that the trucks doing a fair bit of wandering now at speed too. Had to do up the bottom right control arm bolt the other day as it was finger tight, its slotted to adjust camber, picking i tightened it up in the wrong place (nad the new adjustable arms mght be contributing to it too! Eyeometer measured of course)so will ned to take it in for an alignment to check.

hi all, um have a wee problem with the jeep.. she will Idell for about 2 mins then slowly die, slowing down for corners she dies... doing 50k and the rev gauge sits on two... and the auto ,well thats just all over the place.. was on a jeep run the other weekend down a rocky river bed.. no deep water....any ideas anyone......cheers

turn the key on and off 4 times, and see what numbers appear on your odometer, or alternately the dash lights will flash X amount of times in three lots assuming theres only one problem. Im picking crank sensor.

If numbers come up, theres plenty of sources on the net to tell you what the code is.

Keep us posted.

cant seem to get codes up .....how else, or what else can i check ,apart from buy sell and exchange

xj wrote:Im picking crank sensor.

If it is the crank sensor I have a spare, brand new, one sitting here that I imported from the US when I had to replace the one on mine. $150 and its yours, I was quoted $270 by all the official jeep outlets.

Cheers
Ian

I only say its the CS because the description given of problem is exactly what the brides TJ did.

Either way, always nice to have a spare one handy!

ok , were is the cs and how do i check it........cheers......

The Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CPS) is located on the top left hand of the bell housing, quite difficult to get to. Two bolts hold it in place and it plugs in at the rear of the block on passenger side.

When it failed the symptoms with my Jeep were that it would just stop dead. No warning, and then wouldn't start for about 15 minutes, it was partially heat related as it is very near to the exhaust. The check engine lights also indicated that there was a problem with the CPS.

Once I replaced it I haven't had a problem since. Recently I also replaced the oxygen sensor too, and performance is definitely much better for doing that. Don't have a spare one of those, but bought one in from the US for just over $NZ100, tho' with the exchange rate now I am sure it is cheaper. Got it from Summit Racing.

Good luck

jeep still runs, can run for two minutes or so and slowly start to stall..ie revs go down a wee bit at a time and stops...when it stalls when driving i can start it straight away...will check cs tonight after work .......cheers

go down to repco and get a can of electro freze
run the truck up till it dies try to crank it if it dose not start
then spray the crank shaft sensor with the electro freze
if it starts up straight away its 99% postive it is sensor

the crank shaft sensor breakdowns at it gets warm by spraying it you bring it back in temp so it will work

bb402c wrote:go down to repco and get a can of electro freze
run the truck up till it dies try to crank it if it dose not start
then spray the crank shaft sensor with the electro freze
if it starts up straight away its 99% postive it is sensor

the crank shaft sensor breakdowns at it gets warm by spraying it you bring it back in temp so it will work

hi mate, once the pos dies it fires up straight away.. still starts sweet as.......going out side now to have a look, then might take it around the back and shoot it.....