kbjj wrote:Congratulations, only little steps but you've managed to drive 20 metres off the beaten track
found a good fishing hole for ya so ya can get the bloody fly rod out
Fcuk the fly rod, nearly snapped it out of frustration the other day I have enough fun and success spin fishing. We'll get that truck dirty yet. I went up the Garry on Thursday got stuck in wee mud hole and needed a wee winch Its very over grown, that'll brake in your paint
Brought new front rotars as old ones were skimmed and were at 17mm. So the new ones were drilled and Fitted. That stopped my braking wobble. Re packed my kingpins, that stopped my bump steer/death wobble. Had a great day as for progress on the truck today.
Got my hands on a new rubber panhard bush for the prado diff but it too big. So on the lookout for one. If anyone can help.
Good on you for building your dream truck. What are the latest mods on the spare tire carrier for? The ones up top? When you said you went with relays to control the auto trans, does this mean you changes gears manually with the lever, or is it somehow still fully auto?
BlakeNZ wrote:Good on you for building your dream truck. What are the latest mods on the spare tire carrier for? The ones up top? When you said you went with relays to control the auto trans, does this mean you changes gears manually with the lever, or is it somehow still fully auto?
The Spare wheel carrier it to carry ropes, Reverse spotlight mounts, and Antenna Base.
they Auto Computer Mod was the fact that the Auto Engage for the 130 Transfer case, and that the wiring diagram was different but it did pug together. So we got rid of the computer to engage it and ran three relays to engage/disengage the transfer case. the auto still ran of the 185 wiring diagram, sorry for confusion.
My Birthday pressie fitted removed the ashtray and the bracket screwed straight into the existing holes that were there for ashtray no cutting or drilling required happy as
So when i cracked the radiator a few months ago i also bent my draglink. Not too bad but enough to get a new one. Chatting with Tom i ended up getting one made through him.
So this weekend was a busy one in the truck. Saturday Removed the transfer case bash plate because it was too close to the transfer case and was vibrating under load. What a mish after hitting the bolts with a grinder because the fuel tank was in the road. We finally got it out. Used a press and massaged the plate into a new shape . Then had issues since we bent it a bit and the mount holes didn't quiet line up. Got it in, in the end. I'm glad I got a hoist on hand . Thanks Rangiora Toyota haha. While I had it up there I gave her a oil transfusion. Sunday. Put LED bulbs in the dash. What a let down. Not happy. Also fitted tweeters to the top of the A piller internal plastic soldered them up to a 3.5 mm jack in mono form and plugged them into the UHF. Works mint as really happy.
mudbugga wrote:What don't you like about the LED's in the dash Jase? Too bright or not enough spill to properly light up everything?
The three main T10 wedges sit into a bit of perspex that reflects the light but it doesn't work properly i can see the odometer but can't see the speedo
I wired in a single reverse lamp that is run off a three way switch. I don't have a diagram but hopefully this is clear.
Off, on, and auto. Auto is triggered by the reverse lights. The switch is a double throw with two LEDs to show what mode is selected. The switch has an earth to a light pole for the illumination LEDs.
The single reverse LED lamp only draws 3.2 amps so I don't use a relay to power it, the switch is rated to 15 amps so can handle the current. The switch has one input and two outputs selected depending on the rocker position. 10a fused 12v goes to the input pole.
One output pole goes straight to the led lamp for on mode. The other pole goes to a normally open relay that is triggered by the reverse lamps. One side of the relay coil is earthed and the other is fed from the reverse circuit. The supply comes from the switch to the relay and goes to the reverse LED.
Mattman wrote:As long as you don't try to use an illuminated switch as they expect one input and two outputs whereas you have two inputs and one output.
That's why I went with a relay so the illuminated switch would work. I couldn't find a dpdt illuminated switch so used a spdt one with a relay.
Mattman wrote:As long as you don't try to use an illuminated switch as they expect one input and two outputs whereas you have two inputs and one output.
That's why I went with a relay so the illuminated switch would work. I couldn't find a dpdt illuminated switch so used a spdt one with a relay.
Matt.
????
3 way switchs have 2 inputs and 1 output as in picture? Thats just a standard toggle switch nothing fancy
And i think he mounting it by rear door so a switch with a light in ant all the important, shouldnt need relays for a set up like that
As above Kiwiterrano - this will work okay as long as you don't want to use a switch with illuminated LED's in it as the reversed current flow through the switch by using it with two inputs and one output means the LEDs won't light up on the switch.
If you are just using a simple no led switch then go for it.
I have enough fun and success spin fishing.
. Then had issues since we bent it a bit and the mount holes didn't quiet line up. Got it in, in the end. I'm glad I got a hoist on hand 
