FJ40 roll cage, power steering, and disc brake front end

[skid]

Road & Track in high street

or Pro Parts in bridge street

both probably have one sitting on shelf

[cooksworld]

well... finally got CERTIFICATION!

Dropped it off on Tues morning and just waiting on the plate to arrive then I'll pick the vehicle back up.

Some more photos:

Front panel removed for minor rust repair


Modified thermostat for more water flow... but it still gets too hot for my liking cruising from Wgtn to the Hutt.


Thinking the reason for this is:
1/ Going from std engine mounted fan to electric has decreased CFM.
2/ Full shroud required between radiator and fan. Currently the fan on the back of the radiator is mounted on brackets 3mm away from radiator core, plus it's a 16" fan so areas of the radiator won't be getting assisted air flow.
3/ I moved the radiator back 70mm from original location to fit first fan to front. Doing this has reduced air flow hitting radiator. Solution... create ducting to increase air flow onto radiator.
4/ The fan belt between crank pulley and water pump is running on the front pulley - before it was on the back so this may have reduced the flow rate of the water pump.

New rear seatbelts:




Drive shaft hoop (bit hard to see):


The only bugger is that we have baby number two booked in for delivery next Monday so who knows when I'll get to use it... still nice to know its ready to go........ yippppppppie

[Sadam_Husain]

Modified thermostat for more water flow... but it still gets too hot for my liking cruising from Wgtn to the Hutt.


Thinking the reason for this is:
1/ Going from std engine mounted fan to electric has decreased CFM.
2/ Full shroud required between radiator and fan. Currently the fan on the back of the radiator is mounted on brackets 3mm away from radiator core, plus it's a 16" fan so areas of the radiator won't be getting assisted air flow.
3/ I moved the radiator back 70mm from original location to fit first fan to front. Doing this has reduced air flow hitting radiator. Solution... create ducting to increase air flow onto radiator.
4/ The fan belt between crank pulley and water pump is running on the front pulley - before it was on the back so this may have reduced the flow rate of the water pump.

Congrats on completing the certification

If the cooling system is all in good nick the 40 radiator should be keeping it cool enough, sounds like you might not be moving enough air with the electric fans. When I stuck the chev in my 70 series I started off with a flexifan on the water pump and it worked ok but it would get hot pretty quick if it did any work, I threw that away and stuck a viscious fan on it with big blades that moved a lot of air and that made a big difference, my engine was mounted back close to the firewall and my fan was 200mm away from the radiator so I always needed a tight shroud on it to keep the cooling system working properly.

My 40 series has a chev in it and an average mechanical fan on it and a standard 40 series radiator and the temp usually stays around 160-165 for normal highway driving.

[ClassicCruiserSpares]

Have you checked the fan on the front is blowing and not sucking? ive only ever on 16" fan on my v8s and never had a cooling problem.

[wopass]

cooling my motor now is a VS commodore fan inside a VN commodore fan shroud modded to fit and the shroud slightly modded to fit radiator (easy as and fits better than original one) and it cools mint as, even when the radiators 1/4 full of mud from RWC

[cooksworld]

hmmm... the radiator has two fans... front is an ex Nissan Skyline pusher and rear is a after market 16" puller. Will pull it all apart, flush the radiator and make up a shroud for the rear fan.

[wopass]

mine ows me 50 bucks total and the fan is easily found at nearly any pickapart (wrecker) and leaves the front of the radiator open to get max airflow on the road.

i tried a set up like you have now and having a fan on the front just slows air flow down when on the road and then in the bush it doesnt realy help much. so dumped the whole lot and went to the commy fan

the commy fan pulls a LOT of air and cools the beast really well. very happy with the set up now.

[cooksworld]

the commy fan pulls a LOT of air and cools the beast really well. very happy with the set up now.

I'm keep an eye out for one.... considering my first after market one seized the other week (after a grand total of approx 1 hour running time) and caused a electrical fire I'm keen on a factory item as I'm sure they've had greater testing time that some of the cheap crap you end up with...

[cooksworld]

Right... Holley carb questions.

I've currently got 3x Holley carbs (1x LIST-8004, 1x LIST-1850-3 1x LIST-1850-?] - the current one on the vehicle is a later model one with the set fuel level floats. I've been reading up on mods that can be done to Holley to improve their off-road capabilities as currently it floods the motor when driving a basic hill. Some of things I've been reading up on are:

Adding in a 'whistle' into the fuel bowl



Adding a crossover tube between the two vents as in how the the Holley 'truck avenger' ones come out



Ref: http://classicbroncos.com/tech/offroad- ... rrel-carbs plus other site. Has anyone set up Holley successfully for off-roading and what mods have you done?

I've also brought a phenolic spacer as the fuel would bubble out of the carb after a drive around town so hopefully this will eliminate some of the heat being transferred to the carb...

Any help with the Holley appreciated!

Stefen

[Lynx]

if you have got your fuel bubbling in the carb, what temp is you motor running at. Only time i have come across this is when the motor is running waaay hot.

Cheers Daniel

[cooksworld]

if you have got your fuel bubbling in the carb, what temp is you motor running at. Only time i have come across this is when the motor is running waaay hot.

Cheers Daniel

Driving around town 190-200 (190 thermostat) which is fine... but driving around some of the roads here Wgtn it climbs up to 210-220 (105C) which isn't under much load really - the radiator's bubbling away etc.

I'm modifying the way the electric fans are mounted this weekend - I've brought some sheet metal to make up a proper shroud for the radiator/fan as well as directing more air through the front of the radiator... I moved it 80mm back so I could fit an electric fan at the front as well as the back. I figure that the airflow may be heading around the radiator rather than through it. So hopefully with the mods to the radiator etc and the spacer between the carb and manifold I'll reduce the temperatures all round...

[niblik]

I've brought some sheet metal to make up a proper shroud for the radiator/fan

thats the money shot right there.. ensure your radiator is shrouding sufficiently on the motor side with fan there. never really been a fan of the pushing fans though..

i've got my shroud and fans on motor side, no overheating at sheffield. sits on 70 degrees consistantly..

try just the fan shroud first, as extra airflow around side of radiator may be handy at higher speeds.. (flow over engine..)

[wopass]

Right... Holley carb questions.

Any help with the Holley appreciated!

Stefen

dont waste your time and effort, get one of these.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-90470/

I'm modifying the way the electric fans are mounted this weekend - I've brought some sheet metal to make up a proper shroud for the radiator/fan as well as directing more air through the front of the radiator... I moved it 80mm back so I could fit an electric fan at the front as well as the back. I figure that the airflow may be heading around the radiator rather than through it. So hopefully with the mods to the radiator etc and the spacer between the carb and manifold I'll reduce the temperatures all round...

dont take this the wrong way dude but your not listening, moving your radiator back to get more heat soak from the motor is the wrong thing to do for a start, adding a fan to the front is going to compound that on the road by blocking even more air flow!! you want to get the radiator AWAY from the engine heat and leave the front of it OPEN to get max surface area for cooling when driving on the road then add the fan to the back to draw air through kinda like how EVERY commercial vehicle ever made is set up

[cooksworld]

dont waste your time and effort, get one of these.

Yeah I know but it comes down to $$$'s at the moment... I've brought some stuff so I'll see how the mods go over the weekend. Ever tried a 1:1 linkage on the Holley? i.e. do away with the vac secondaries and set it up so the both front and rear open at the same time (jetted accordingly)...

dont take this the wrong way dude but your not listening, moving your radiator back to get more heat soak from the motor is the wrong thing to do for a start, adding a fan to the front is going to compound that on the road by blocking even more air flow!! you want to get the radiator AWAY from the engine heat and leave the front of it OPEN to get max surface area for cooling when driving on the road then add the fan to the back to draw air through kinda like how EVERY commercial vehicle ever made is set up

lol... yeah yeah I know, but when it came to installing the PS lines which came out of a Surf I had to move the radiator back to run them as the weren't going to fit anywhere else and wasn't prepared to get custom ones made up. I'll remove the front fan, make up a rear shroud and investigate if I can push the radiator fwd...

[smurf182]

Ever tried a 1:1 linkage on the Holley? i.e. do away with the vac secondaries and set it up so the both front and rear open at the same time (jetted accordingly)...

Say goodbye to your fuel economy..

[cooksworld]

Ever tried a 1:1 linkage on the Holley? i.e. do away with the vac secondaries and set it up so the both front and rear open at the same time (jetted accordingly)...

Say goodbye to your fuel economy..

What fuel economy!!!

Fair call... hadn't considered that - just read something on ih8mud about only losing half the carb depending on the angle of the carb

[cooksworld]

Holley carb fun...

The lineup :: LIST-8004, LIST-1850-3, LIST-1850-9



1850-9 before:



Pipe bender (pepper grinder):











This carb is also running '66' size jets. The two others were running '64' size jets. All three were originally run on 350 chevs, but mine is a 305 - can anyone recommend swapping the '66' size for the '64'?

[cooksworld]

Made up the new fan shroud for the radiator... should have done it ages ago instead of trying the various other things that didn't help. I can now hold a rag in front of the bull bars and it's getting drawn towards the vehicle. Will take it for a cruise around the coast tomorrow to see if it heats up.

Shroud with testing fitting of the fan (crap cell phone photos):





Painted up and mounted:





Removed the front fan:



Carb mounted up with new spacer:





For the 'whisle' I tried buying the genuine part but was told that it wasn't a held part any more but could buy from summit racing in the US. What I ended up doing was for the primary side I moulded some copper pipe to fit in the vent space and ensured it cleared the float etc. I ended up holding it in place with some kneadit - stated it could work on fuel tanks and seemed to set 'like steel' so fingers crossed it doesn't break down and clog the carb up etc.

[Fakey]

shroud looks good. Just an extra suggestion, you might want to put some sort of panel/shroud down the sides of the radiator between it an the front panel to direct airflow thru it rather than allowing it to pass round it like it is able to do as it is now

[cooksworld]

shroud looks good. Just an extra suggestion, you might want to put some sort of panel/shroud down the sides of the radiator between it an the front panel to direct airflow thru it rather than allowing it to pass round it like it is able to do as it is now

Yip onto that... have some other panel steel for the job. Be great if the overheating was sorted.

Your builds looking good... bodies being seriously trimmed! What guards What's the plan for the 45 once you've taken all the parts (it was a 45 from memory)

[Fakey]

haha yeah chopped off most of the stuff in the way of the tyres plan is tube front guards along the same lines as the factory ones just wider an stronger. The bonus is cuttin the guards gets rid of most of the body rust
The 45 is prob halfway to china on a steel boat by now, wasnt worth saving a

[cooksworld]

Well, I didn't make it around the coast today... hardly made it around the block with the changes I made to the carb (runs like a 4 cylinder until the revs get up). Haven't quite worked out what it is yet but firstly I swapped back to the original jets, still ran like crap at idle and when you first take off. Next removed the 'whistle' from the metering block... same result. Just removed the carb and enlarged the holes in the cross over tube... runs better at idle but haven't taken it for a drive yet - tomorrow perhaps. Failing that the next in line is the phenolic spacer. Went from a .5 inch alloy spacer to a 1 inch phenolic spacer... perhaps the greater CC in the inlet manifold is causing it to run leaner ??? Don't have a clue really - can't say carbs are my thing

[cooksworld]

Anyone know if this is a Holley Truck Avenger? Looks like the floats are centre hung rather than side hung which I thought the TA carbs came out with:

[wopass]

all the truck avengers are side hung mate.

that carb from summit would owe you about 500buks landed dude and no more probs other than a bit of jetting but you have to do that anyway

[cooksworld]

Took the roof off on Sat and went to club champs Sunday - first bit of mud since getting back on the road

[Mongoose]

Took the roof off on Sat and went to club champs Sunday - first bit of mud since getting back on the road

'effin awesome!! Jeez I miss my 40

[cooksworld]

Don't suppose anyone know of someone who sells the Megaquirt kits locally? Looking at sourcing a TBI manifold and would need a ECU of some sort along with sensors... I've been looking into these kits.

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html
http://www.msefi.com/index.php

[cooksworld]

Brought my new (or not so new) TBI today... coming down from BOP way hopefully by the weekend.



Off a running motor in theory with all the parts on the manifold... no ECU, sensors etc but I'll collect those over time. Doesn't look pretty but hopefully it will be the beginnings of EFI on the old Chevy...

[niblik]

good boy!!

[cooksworld]

Might be time to start selling some of the carbs - found these on TM... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =331857710

$550 for a Megasuirt EFI ECU. I remember paying $1200 for a Link system 15 years ago so these seem damn cheap. Bring on the EFI