V8 Land Rover project

[Overkill]

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The angle of the rear driveshaft in resting position. Its quite steep. I suppose some testing will tell me if it will work or not.

Rested she's on a bit of an angle, you may have to double cardon both ends to stop vibes and blasting through the UJs........

[DieselBoy]

It looks no worse than a lifted SWB Safari

Adjustable or lengthened bottom arms is probably all you need if you have a vibration issue.

From the photo, it looks like the pinion needs to be rotated down toward the ground so that it is running parallel with the out put from the gear box. Getting those UJ angles parallel with each other will cure any vibes on the open road.

As for whether there is enough travel in the UJ's to handle the short D/S and the awesome Land Rover Flex, that remains to be seen. I would say there should be though!!!!!

[oldyella]

Yea a few things I had to deal with there.

The diff in the standard setup has the rubber doughnut thing so the pinion pointed up towards the gearbox.

I realized this was a bit excessive in the first place, so I moved the radius arm mounts back slightly to point the pinion down. Didn't want to change it much from original for fear for making it squat strangely when hoofing it.

Then I decided I would put the radiator on the back, allowing a longer rear driveshaft, mounted the engine etc etc.

Then decided that was a shit idea and moved the engine back and dropped the back of the gear box down to try and make the angles similar.

Now, hopefully, once I'm driving, the pinion will angle down a bit more and be pretty close.

If testing finds otherwise, fangdangled drive shaft will be the last resort.

[oldyella]

Pajero 2.8td air box mod is coming along. Just need to get some silicon bends then trim the inlets and outlets to suit. The air temp sensor bung for the MS11 will also be welded in downstream of the filter. I cant get it much closer to the intake manifold than that really.







Bit more welding and grinding and the new cross member will be sorted.

[niblik]

very nice...

in regards to the airbox, is the feed into the box the lower and feed to engine the upper? i only ask as in a thread as of late there was a box which looked like the feeds were around the other way.. looks good what you've done..

as long as the bolts on the crossmember through chassis are crush tubed me thinks ya wouldnt need gussets.. were ya still headin that way? bet those holes took a bit of cuttin fluid.

keep goin man.. she's gettin closer..

[oldyella]

Yep the the lower pipe is the inlet which will connect to the snorkel. The upper will go to the engine so fortunately its not backwards.

When I got the cross member back from the engineers I noticed it was just off square. I just managed to tweak it at home in a 6t press but the pressure releaf valve was getting a workout.

Once it was square I welded in one gusset but it pulled the cross member off square when the weld shrunk so that idea went down the gurgler. I just cut it out and fortunately it went back to square. I am using crusher tube in the chassis so like you say, should be right without them.

The 0.6mm wire I was using to weld up the air box is too small to weld anything larger than 2mm and it is to awkward for the arc. So some more welding supplies will be purchased for the mig on payday

Carbide tip hole saws, a bit of grease (poor mans cutting fluid?) and a 2spd 850W drill with gearbox set to low made quick work of the "speed holes" in the cross member

All these fiddly bits and peices seem to take a lot of time to get right but im starting to get a few bits nearing completion...

[oldyella]

Cross member finished and painted


Plates on chassis with crusher tubes welded up and painted up. Which means once the paint dries, its finished.


Air box is in. I welded the air temp sensor on a shyte angle but it clears the bonnet so she'll be right. The whole assembly ended up a bit tighter than I thought it would be but its ok.


3inch silicon bend between the snorkel and the air box


Brought a lid for the snorkel. I need to increase the pipe diameter to 3.5 inch at the top but shouldn't be a problem. I found TWL sell a size adapter which will do the trick.

I reacon this type of lid suit LR's a bit more than others as well.


Next things to tick off is mount radiator and sort radiator hoses while I save up a bit more coin for the new exhaust which will actually fit in now...

[niblik]

nice tidy wee install there fella.. likin the hat too.. keeps with the old school rover aesthetic.. heh..

what ya think you'll do with that hole left by the snorkel now?

[nstacey]

nice tidy wee install there fella.. likin the hat too.. keeps with the old school rover aesthetic.. heh..

what ya think you'll do with that hole left by the snorkel now?

I don't know if it'd fit but defenders have a plastic grill thing about there don't they? Might look in place that way

[oldyella]

Thats one of the few holes which is actually from the factory . Its the intake for the cold air blower (aka heater) origionally I think.

They're S3 guards and all S3's have a bit of a round plastic grill thing which will just screw straight in. Just need to find one. Might see if LRS have one...

Or if anyone has a spare?

[oldyella]

We'll the snorkel is all finished less paint. I didn't want to make it any lower or it would start blocking the view...



Had to weld in a adapter to increase the pipe size from 3" to 3.5" to fit the hat. Starting to get the hang of the mig. Can definitely tell its cheep when your using it but its been doing the job.





Got the radiator shroud in if you can call it that. Its just a piece of 5mm thick alloy. The fans will bolt to it and have holes cut. I think I might be able to get three 10" bastards on there. With the shroud, should have pretty good flow.



Made up some interesting looking radiator mounts. They bolt to the inside of the guards at the top and the main mount for all the front end at the bottom so should be right. Made out of 3mm steel bent up in the vice.

I designed it so you can take the fans and shroud off without taking the radiator out (hopefully).

Iv ended up with 70mm clearance to the pulleys so 50mm thick fans, 20mm clearance should be right.



Landy is of for a trip to the exhaust shop first week of next month. Decided to go to Magoo on Warf Street. I had a yarn to the guy there and he seems like a good sort.

[niblik]

good stuff on progress fella..

just curious to your shroud set up.. is the alloy sittin flush up against the radiator fins? the reason i ask is if ya bolt ya fans to it and use them, ya not gettin air pulled the whole radiator. there'll be areas of 'dead air' and cause hotter spots on ya radiator.. havin the alloy set back from the radiator a touch would create an area air could then flow through..

if rooms an issue, you could still do the 'backspacing' and then arrange a couple of fans around your crank pulleys and various ancillaries..? just try to keep the fans at the same cfm and you'd be minter..

i had to offset my fans to do just that.. worked out well.. reservoir's not there anymore though..


you can just make out in the above pic the 20mm step out the shroud does..

[oldyella]

I was pretty lucky there actually. Theres about a 15mm gap between the radiator fins and the flat shroud just due to the radiator design.

I worked out I can only fit two 10" fans so I was wondering. Have you had any trouble with your LR with the cooling setup?

[niblik]

no cooling issues at all..

good stuff on the spacing.. glee! on the fans thing, when ya get them, make sure you get some that can give you a decent cfm figure.. any 'cheap' fans that dont or cant give ya a cfm figure, just arent worth it in my opinion..

snorkel's lookin neat too..

[oldyella]

Oh yea so might be best to get some flashish ones. I see the ones you have used are single direction so will probably go for something similar. Were they 10" or 12" ones?

[DieselBoy]

Go for proper engine cooling fans off a car from a wrecker!!!

Nissan pulsar/bluebird, Toyota Corolla etc etc

Those fans move some serious air.

Those things you get off the shelf from super crap or ripco and even tardme just don't move the air. They are just like an Aux fan. They work, but just don't move the air required to cool an engine.

You will want to keep ya 8pack cool, and have heaps of cooling in reserve for when the radiators half full of crud.

Also, I wouldn't like to say how long one of the cheap fans would last after a proper dunking in a decent river.

I went through all this fan drama with Weapon, and found that the best thing is to scour the wreckers for a proper engine cooling fan off a car.

One decent fan will move the same air as 4 of those little crappy ones.

[niblik]

on the fawdy i've done what dieselboys said as the commodore fan moves something like 3600 cfm..

unfortunately on vomitron i didnt have enough room between radiator and motor/ancillaries to run one so went with a pair of 10" fans.. they were rated somewhere around 2000 cfm each..

[oldyella]

Yea, I think a commy fan is out of the question

Thanks for the pointers DB and the ball park CFM figures Nibs.

Iv got this idea in my head that 1995ish coon fans might be a possibility...

I'll have a look around then and go for some 2000cfm 10" fans if need be.

Cheers

[mike]

i've got a pair of twins off a ford. well i think they are, they fitted straight onto a rangie radiator without f'all modification. I only have one running most of the time and when the engine is on the limiter for a period of time i'll flick the second fan on. Using a three way switch you can turn them off for water as well. pm shane from here, he sold them to me and he worked at the ford dealership so will know what they are - if your using a rangie radiator that is. nice and slim as also.

[vinceparts]

the best fans i know of from previous experience is ford mondeo electric fans, awsome design and pump heaps of air.

http://images.gasgoo.com/MiMwMDRfMDA0Iz ... n-f100.jpg

[mike]

mine are very very similar to those, probably the earlier model before they realised they could get slightly bigger fans on a diagonal. same blades and everything.

[LOLYF]

The set up i used are from an AU Falcon, The move heaps of air and aren't to expensive. You can even get brand new (Taiwanese) ones for about the same price as second hand .

[oldyella]

We'll i still haven't decided on fans yet but that's just because of a lack of money. I think I don't really have any other choice than the little aftermarket jobs due to lack of space. The coon fans are about 70mm thick which would give me 5mm clearance so won't work.

Been reasonably busy on it.

Air box and snorkel are painted up in gloss black.

removed all the bolts holding the manifolds on except for two on each side so the fella at the exhaust shop doesn't have to do it.

Gas tanks, seat box and floor went in so I could sit in there and do some more wiring for the computer. Still need to find some three-way taps for switching fuel lines...

After a bit more wiring, I fired up the computer in the truck and connected the laptop.

I verified that the TPS sensor was working correctly

The engine coolant temperature sensor was reading 20deg C and when I disconnected it, the temperature reading in the MSII software defaulted to 84deg C

The manifold air temperature sensor was reading 21deg C but didn't change when I unplugged it so I think there is something funny there but haven't looked into it yet.

Gave it an oil change, wired up the starter properly (didn't go through inhibitor switch though) and wound it over to prime the remote oil pipes and filter.

Then went to test the revs sensing part of the MSII, didn't work, hmmm, check for spark, no spark, ffs, power at the coil though, pretty sure ignition module is shagged. Possibly why it was running like arse at the first attempt. I think Im going to just slap a new ignition module in for the meantime and get an HEI down the line once its up and running.

One suspect ignition module


I also mounted up some gauges. Ill have a Rev counter, the two AFR guages, water temp and oil pressure.



And that stuffed labour weekend

[oldyella]

So I was still trying to get the MS-II to sense the RPM of the motor tonight. I came back from tea and acedentally left the power onto everything even so, nothing should have happened...

But this did. The coil got so hot it popped and squirted black goo everywhere. Bugger


I traced the problem down to this

A shyte join on the co-axial cable which ment the coil was shorted directly to ground continiously. Although I think I tested this join at the time, a bit of movement and it shorted.


So atleast I know what the problem is. the expensive way...

I now require a new coil The ignition module is fine it just wasn't working because it couldn't disconnect the coil from ground due to this short.

[oldyella]

Right,

Had some sucess tonight!

I horied a coil off a mate that had spare and slapped it in. Fixed my dodgy piece of wiring. Presto, megasquirt knows the motor is cranking and fires the injectors according, adjusts the IAC stepper motor and enabled warm up enrichment.

So pretty stoked as now it should only need a few more checks before being operational.

Heres a pic of the laptop "aka the brick" in the truck.


And this is the completed "engine loom" anything not directly related to the engine operation like the fans and ac pump relays will be located behind the speedo just to simplify fault finding.



Off to magoo this sat going to plan

[Rotazuk]

I now require a new coil

Well atleast a coil is cheaper than an ignition module I expect . What/where are the fuse blocks from ?

Cheers
Chris

[oldyella]

Hi Chris,

They're out of the origional discovery loom. I just removed the connectors, chopped off the old wires and soldered on my new wires as I didn't have the correct crimping tool. Worked a treat.

Just about everything is fused separately to simplify fault finding.

I did a bit more testing last night and my IAC stepper motor is behaving correctly. I took a blow dryer to the two temp sensors and they are working correctly as well but need to be calibrated as they are reading different temperatures. I'll get a termometer for that job I think.

Its off to the exhaust shop sat so I'll have some spare time again haha

[FORGE1]

I did a similar thing with my Series 2. I left the ignition on and it cooked the coil. I had nothing to replace it with but I found a Coil from a 1992 Nissan Bluebird that was in my throw out pile and wired it on and hey presto it worked and with it being from a newer car it was all electronic and it didnt heat up at all.

[oldyella]

Oh yea,

I think that can happen if the points happen to be closed and you leave the key on which shorts the coil to ground (might be wrong)

With electronic ignition modules its no longer a problem as they only short the coil to ground when they sense the engine is rotating (via magnetic sensor within the dizzy in my case)

[oldyella]

Hooked up to go to Magoo