V8 Land Rover project

[MNC]

Hooked up to go to Magoo

Awesome - truck is looking mint Such a good feeling to be on the downward slope for finishing the truck

Well Done

[oldyella]

Yea I think Im definately past halfway Still needs front bar and winch but will be out for a few drives before I start work on that.

Drives like this hopefully



Thats a landy pulling out a saf by the way

[oldyella]

Headers are finished. Rest of the system finished over the next couple of days ready to pickup on Sat

Told Malcom to put a muffler in that doesn't do much muffling

The left side was a bit tight which is why its not as balanced as the right side. Recon they should give the 3.9 a bit more torque and mid range compared to a manifold

[oldyella]

Few more pics of the headers

The stock manifold on the left side looks to be pretty flash really. I still reacon the headers should flow a bit more though.


Then there is the right side. WFT that manifold is shyte. Im not sure if it has been replaced with one off and older engine or something? So the headers will definately give some performance gains over stock on this side.

[oldyella]

Well after a few issues I got the landy fired up in the weekend. The first video is basically 3rd time running. It had a blocked vacuum line to the computer so it thought it was at WOT so was pouring the fuel in! Suprising it ran. But it did


http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2585398884265


Then after a few tweaks, putting my pressure tested radiator in and some water pipe plumbing, I rolled it down the drive, then drove back up
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2585377523731&set=vb.1533324011&type=2&theater

Then my fuel pump siezed Those bosch fuel pumps definantly need a filter before them. Anyway now I need to get the finances back in order after buying the exhaust

[MNC]

Then after a few tweaks, putting my pressure tested radiator in and some water pipe plumbing, I rolled it down the drive, then drove back up
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=2585377523731&set=vb.1533324011&type=2&theater

Nice Looks like a tight squeeze to get into that garage now

[oldyella]

Nice Looks like a tight squeeze to get into that garage now

I think iv still got about 2 inches to the roll bar... Bigger tyers? Trying to resist the temptation as it will smash the disco running gear and use heaps of gas driving around.

Saying that it would look mint on some 36: tripple block simexs

[oldyella]

Still working on bits and pieces to get this thing finished up.

Driveshafts painted with new UJs pressed in




Top hose is just a supercheap job but fitted mint. New dizzy cap, rotor and coil.



Bottom hose was a bit trickier, had to weld up a steel section to get it to work


Got the hole in ma guard filled up with a new grille


Need to wire up all the guages now. Had to send one of my AFR guages back to the US. It came up with an Error code which made no sense. I connected the other guage I had and it worked fine so I figured the it was the guage.


New fuel filler pipes as the old one was holy


Planning on taking it to Sims brakes to get the lines run. Tried to do it myself but decided it was to hory

[smurf182]

Planning on taking it to Sims brakes to get the lines run. Tried to do it myself but decided it was to hory

I'd take it down there ASAP if I were you, apparently they are pretty busy leading up to Xmas, I had to twist their arm into just doing my proportioning valve this week.

[oldyella]

Thanks for the heads up but can't afford to get it down there till after the holidays. Hopefully they aren't as busy then. I'm expecting it to be in the order of $500???

There's still lots of bits and pieces I want to sort like rubber plugs in firewall, transfer fuel pump, gear shifter. Its all so boring I just want to go for a drive

[oldyella]

Still working on bits and pieces. Trying not to rush as these are the bits which end up getting you stuck in the middle of no where when they fall off


I got two Chinese replica Bosh 044 fuel pumps from a fella on TM for $115each with brackets. Not bad when a secondhand VL fuel pump is $90!

I got two and I'll just use one as my transfer fuel pump off a switch, then if either breaks when I'm in the middle of no where, I can swap them over.



They do have a pretty random fitting on the end but I think its a Bosh banjo thing that I just need to buy for about $8 each or something.



Got two 10" fans mounted. Clearance was tight so arranged them as best I could around the engine pullys. Checked the direction of flow with a small 12V battery I had and they seems to have a fair bit of suck in the right direction. Time will tell if they are enough.



When I first got the donor discovery, I noticed a massive power steering leak. I don't really know where it was coming from because there was oil every where.

How difficult is it to replace the seals in these things?



I also need to change this pipe so it comes out at right angles to increase the clearance to the engine pullys.




Looks like there is a seal behind this. Need to tap out a pin then pull the entire shaft out at a guess.



Then another seal where the pitman arm bolts onto.



The power steer lines themselves were also a bit suspect. Think I'll pay a visit to ENZED and just get new ones.

I'v also got my gauges wired up. Working on headlights at the moment. I ripped out my hory "get it going" fuel lines and am building up the collection of fittings I need to do them properly. I'll also used braided line to and from the motor I think.

Once its back up and running it'll be off to the brake shop.

Cheers

[mike]

I had my fans on a three way switch, off - 1 on - 2 on. Pretty much only ever have one on unless doing something sitting still or long hill work. But then I never run temp or oil gauges

[L-andy]

Output shaft seals are pretty cheap and not too difficult to fit without striping the box but getting the pitman arm off is no walk in the park! Insulation tape on the splines helps getting the new seals in place without damaging them when sliding over the splines.
Never done input shaft seals so can't help there.

Andy

[oldyella]

Thanks for the pointers about the seals Andy. I'm going to give it ago so will post up some pics of the input shaft seal replacement as well.

Need some new fuel filler caps as well... Just a pic for Landrover Spares to figure out what type I need. Typical of landrover Iv managed to get two different types.

[niblik]

mine on my s2a swb is the same as the one on the left, if it helps...

[oldyella]

Thanks Nibs got the fuel caps sorted. Landrover made three different types in total

What I haven't got sorted is my fuel pump system. Its driving me nuts

This stupid bosch check valve. Does anyone know where I can buy a suitable banjo fitting. Its not a normal banjo fitting because it doesn't suit a banjo bolt but a nut instead.

The other idea I had was to remove it and just run an inline check valve. But I can't find anyone who sells an inline check valve.

Will it be no good if I just run no check valve?

The other thing was braded fuel line. I was going to use alloy anodized "push lok" connectors. Are these good to use with the stainless braded fuel line?

Any advice would be great or places which sell this kind



Cheers

[klompy]

Can you use a normal banjo fitting with a dome nut.

[niblik]

i'd remove it and take it in to a performance parts shop, hit them up for an alterior fitting dude..

[Pedro]

Thanks Nibs got the fuel caps sorted. Landrover made three different types in total

What I haven't got sorted is my fuel pump system. Its driving me nuts

This stupid bosch check valve. Does anyone know where I can buy a suitable banjo fitting. Its not a normal banjo fitting because it doesn't suit a banjo bolt but a nut instead.

The other idea I had was to remove it and just run an inline check valve. But I can't find anyone who sells an inline check valve.

Will it be no good if I just run no check valve?

The other thing was braded fuel line. I was going to use alloy anodized "push lok" connectors. Are these good to use with the stainless braded fuel line?

Any advice would be great or places which sell this kind

Cheers

remove fitting and replace, how ever the thread in the pump may be a odd ball if chiense, so possibly remove fitting, cut up and braze to hose barb or what ever to give you a line out, a check valve would be needed if you are running each pump one at a time into a common output line/fuel rail, so instead of check valve use a couple of ball valves to shut the line off the each pump, a manual dirt proof system, but not idiot proof.....

Pedro

[oldyella]

I went into Roy McDonald's Automotive, the only certifier in Dunedin now. He sells all the fuel line & fittings.

Managed to find an aftermaket check valve for $65 each to fit into the bosch 044 outlet so Iv got two of them on order.

Its a bit retarded bosch just don't sell their pump with check valve you can actually use

Pedro - I was under the impression the check valve is also needed to retain pressure in fuel rail for starting?

I will be using the check valves as you described though. I think taps would be to hard to mount etc. The check valves were just easier. I still need to come up with a way to prevent overflowing one tank when using the transfer fuel pump.

Cheers,

Pete

[oldyella]

Can you use a normal banjo fitting with a dome nut.

Perhaps, I did a fair bit of searching on the net but not that much at hardware shops. I just got fed up and took the easy way

[Pedro]

Pedro - I was under the impression the check valve is also needed to retain pressure in fuel rail for starting?

Pete

when the ign is first turned on the pump runs for a few seconds, then shuts off until the ign give a signal for pump to run, (megasquirt) the pumpsi have used, ( holden) never worried about check valves, just seemed to work , besides as soon as you start to crank the pump will start running.

Pedro

[oldyella]

Thanks for that info Pedro. I wasn't sure if this was a necessary requirement for an injection system.

I noticed I couldn't blow through the VL fuel pump so figured it had an internal check valve. But the Bosch 044 was easy to blow through.

Im still going to use them since it simplifies my setup a fair bit.

Does anyone have an idea how to ensure I don't overflow the tank im pumping into?

[juz]

Hi Pete, Im sure Graham Fitz was handing his certing over to another Dunedin company, cant recall the name. Worth giving him a call? I just used Peter Watson from Gore to cert my truck, meet him in Balclutha. Great to deal with and does alot of 4x4s, Roy McDonald........ Unless its from the mighty US of A he usually dont wana know. As for dont want to overflow other tank, run two fuel level gauges, pump till ones empty-other ones full?
cheers Justin.

[NJV6]

With my temperature gauge, I run two senders to the one gauge and have a simple switch to tell the gauge which sender to get the reading from.... an option?

[oldyella]

Right, sounds like I should use Peter Watson for the certifier. I might give him a call, get him up to speed with what I'v been doing.

I can do the switch between fuel senders easy enough. I was just thinking it might need to be idiot proof, auto cutoff thing you know. The best way I can think off is making some electronics figure it out off the fuel sender resistance.

[callum007]

If you still need a fitting for that pump. give me a pm, got about a dozen of them. from memory the thread in the pump is m10x1.0.

we use bosch 911 & 044's for de-icing systems

if the tank your pumping into is sealed you could use a simple pressure switch to sense its full, then operate a check valve. put the pressure switch in the bottom of the tank, calc the head pressure the sensor need to cut out. need to know specific gravity of petrol, I know IPA is 0.88 for work...

or do an overflow pipe back to tank 1... and turn off manually

[Petemcc]

you should be able to get a level sensor with a relay contact on it so that you can set it up to switch when its full we have similar things for oil tanks at work. A simple float system would work and just make sure you are on level ground when pumping from one to the other.

[oldyella]

We'll I've been spending to much money on motorbikes so the LR has been neglected a bit lately but starting to get back into it.

I've decided to connect the the breather pipe of each fuel tank together. This means if I forget to stop pumping fuel across, it shouldn't spew out the side of the truck.

In the mean time I've been wiring. Its all new. Used 7core HD trailer flex for the lighting loom.

These are the two 10" fans running. They hold a rag up against the grill and seem to flow reasonably well so heres hoping for no overheating problems.

I've put in a three way switch for them. Auto is controlled with the MSII, OFF for water crossings and ON



Space between fans and radiator is min 15mm. Time will tell if it gets munched



Then I got the headlights, tail lights and park lights wired up. Still got breaklights, indicators, horn, fuel guages to go

Low beam


High Beam


Also got the water temp sender in. Its the origional disco overtemperature switch gutted and machined out with a steel adaptor soldered in. Used the oven element to heat the bastard up



And the oil pressure sender. I drilled and tapped the remote mounted housing with an 1/8 BSP thread and I was in buisness



While I was replacing the seals in the steering box I found the output shaft lower bearing was shagged.



So a new steering box is on its way. I've alread got new power steer lines so hopefully that will sort the power steer leaks

Priced up braided fuel lines, pre pump filters, main filter and fittings at approximately $460 Just going to spend the coin and go for it because I don't fancy setting it ablaze.

Hopefully take it over the Dunstan trail and stretch its legs soon

[oldyella]

The original break light switch



Time for a new one.

A photo to show Land Rover Spares what I need.