Offroad-Express

Well it has been a while but after six months of the new suspension package and tyres gathering dust in the shed, they have been fitted!!!!

Have gone for 35” Creepy’s, EFS shocks and springs with 4” lift in the front and 3” in the rear. 4” in the front to counteract the weight of the pto winch and bars etc.

Before when on 33” tyres



All the bits and pieces



And it is raining

The new tyres, notice the height of the tyres compared to the body



Everything in place, and yes it is a good step-up now ( Reece modelling the new step )



And after a test or two at Rallywoods




Couple of points, no problem with driveline vibration, sits on the road ok and no speed wobbles. Will be getting a wheel alignment done later in the week. Need to extend and strengthen the pan hard rod, as the axle is 45mm off center.
No guard cut needed and the only rubbing yesterday was on the inner guard, which is loose.

Still a few things to do but am very happy with the result.

The body is sitting 250mm higher now but will see what happens as things settle over the next few months

Very nice Curly, the post rally woods pic looks like something off Madmax

DBWRacing wrote:Very nice Curly, the post rally woods pic looks like something off Madmax

Drives like something off Madmax as well

Will be putting in new steering dampner today and decide about drop boxes after driving home

Smart front bar you have there Curly

worthog wrote:Smart front bar you have there Curly

And it took a couple of huge hits as well

Nice set up

Is similar to the set up on mine,EFS springs 5" in front and 4" in the rear.
Do you know what spring rates you got?(Lbs)
I run drop box's which is the cheapest way to correct caster,seams to work pretty well,you do hit them though.

What do you think of the creepys,need to run them 5-8psi off road for best grip,very tuff tyres

Mines a Hi-roof also,arent thay pretty

Shane

Shane wrote:Is similar to the set up on mine,EFS springs 5" in front and 4" in the rear.
Do you know what spring rates you got?(Lbs)
I run drop box's which is the cheapest way to correct caster,seams to work pretty well,you do hit them though.

What do you think of the creepys,need to run them 5-8psi off road for best grip,very tuff tyres

Mines a Hi-roof also,arent thay pretty

Shane

Can't remember what i asked for, will reply to that one later when i here back for where i got them from.
Will be putting drop boxes on this weekend, have set hopefully arriving Friday. She wanders at 100km at the moment like a bitch on heat

Ran the Creepys last weekend at 10psi and they worked well, can't wait to see what a locker does to the Whale

albundy wrote:Yep, your right there Dave. Time will tell I suppose. My last OME shocks collapsed on themselves. OME and EFS are made IN the same factory. Mate in Oz used tough dog, swore he would never fit them to a truck again. The TJM were cheap as the shop got a special deal on some old stock.
Al

just reading throu this, thought i would ammend it...

[quote="darinz"]GQ front shocks will die reguards less of what shock you put in. That is why anyone that is using it seriously needs to consider at least fitting 80 series Cruiser shocks or twins. The 80 series is good as it has the same valving but is 30% longer so gives greater oil capacity and so better cooling and life. To fit is pretty simple if you have a body lift.
ie unbolt shock tower.
grind welds that hold bolts in.
Replace bolts with longer bolts and get spacers made to extent the tower.

Would I get away with this with just 25mm body lift?

badnuz wrote:

albundy wrote:Yep, your right there Dave. Time will tell I suppose. My last OME shocks collapsed on themselves. OME and EFS are made IN the same factory. Mate in Oz used tough dog, swore he would never fit them to a truck again. The TJM were cheap as the shop got a special deal on some old stock.
Al

just reading throu this, thought i would ammend it...

are they pretty much the same shock and quality? or are they just made at the same place?

turoa wrote:
are they pretty much the same shock and quality? or are they just made at the same place?

hitting the nail on the head here.

Many different manufacturers have many different parts all made in many of the same factorys. Its how it works. Does not mean that EFS is the same as toughdog or tat toughdog is the same as EFS. It does not mean that they use the same seals, different seals or the same design... it means virtually nothing.

just wondering when everyone seems to put in a 4 inch lift why do u go for drop boxes rather than drop radius arms ? besides the price

we got the snake racing drop arms, they are awsome look pretty to haha

Drop boxes will allow the truck to climb over objects better than drop arms, but sacrafice clearance
Every mod has a compromise, just depends which suits your needs/budget better I guess

i fail to see how drop boxes would allow you to drive over an obsticle beter due to the fact that they r lower and u still have the radius arm sitting at the same level as before where as with the drop arms u wld not loose the the clearance or am i wrong ?

DaveM wrote:Drop boxes will allow the truck to climb over objects better than drop arms, but sacrafice clearance
Every mod has a compromise, just depends which suits your needs/budget better I guess

It's how it keeps the better geometry. You are more likely to get hung on th diffs than you are on the dropboxes anyway

With dropped radius arms as the diff moves upwards it also moves FORWARDS a small amount which is bad.

Your arms should be flat and not at an angle downwards.

Even manufacturers of drop arms often sell drop boxes too and state that drop boxes have the best manners.

The loss of clearance is very slight- its so close to the rear of the wheel that you'd have to be going over something pretty bloody sqare to catch yourself up. Ramp over angle is hardly affected at all- if anything.

Also, decent drop boxes are a nice shape so wont get hung up.

Also, Many toyota 4x4's come with (essentually) drop boxes from the factory- its not seen as a negative on them is it

unless you have over 35'' wheels you will get hung upon ya diffs

thnx 4 the input was just trying to figure out wich way to go with a lift

The other thing to remember is the stock radius arms have been known to bend, or even break, so this is another bonus with running a drop arm.

If money permits, I'd seriously look at the Superior Flex Arm as an option, you can run them as a drop arm, or as I do (well DID), with drop boxes, and a standard flex arm one side, factory other.

Just remember to factor in the cost of a LVC. Drop arms aren't so obvious, but a flex arm, or drop boxes stand out a little more.

I so want your flex arm.

flyingbrick wrote:I so want your flex arm.

It MAY come up for sale, as my latest shorty is sold, so if I don't replace it with a LWB Safari and get a VX, I'll be selling my Nissan bits

I have first dibs.

If it takes a month or two before its up for sale then thats perfect for me

i may have to upgrade the rear springs a bit more pipework ans a heavier spare causing the rear hight to drp a bit to much not level now