Offroad-Express

shiney wrote:Sorry Bulletproof but I am not Lyndsay,
All clubs as you know (because you used to be a member of Nelson)have minimum requirements for hooks/bolts and other safety requirements. To advise a prospective member to fit a factory hook (because you believe some to be stronger) and expect this member to get a club tick....what would be the chances. Yes some hooks are of better quality than others but clubs do require rated hooks...even visitors from other clubs need to respect the rules of that club. These rated hooks if fitted correctly are more than adequate for club recoveries. I would rather have one straighten than become a missile. There is a wealth of knowledge within every club as to the prefered item a new member wishes to purchase. Still your choice to use what ever hook you think is best on your private/non club trips but remember to respect club rules.

fred flintstone wrote:I wanna know why, ALL THE CLUBS cant settle on one rule for the hooks,
as a newbie here, I read different threads and there seems to be different rules for different places,
and to be honest, thats bullshit...
after all, I thought we're spose to be heading in the same direction,
same thing for cages and seatbelts...

well....

fred flintstone wrote:I wanna know why, ALL THE CLUBS cant settle on one rule for the hooks,
as a newbie here, I read different threads and there seems to be different rules for different places,
and to be honest, thats bullshit...
after all, I thought we're spose to be heading in the same direction,
same thing for cages and seatbelts...

well....

rangimotors wrote:i replace the bolts and would not use the factory ones, 10.9 bolts are still readily available and cheap.
I replace them because from what i understand (limited knowledge)
-high tensile bolts have a limited life, and can be usless if they have been over tightened or used incorrectly
-the factory ones might be 10 or even 20 years old,
-i have no idea of the history of the bolts from factory,
-i don't use the factory captive nuts/holes so am talking them out anyway.
-i find it peace of mind to use new nuts and bolts for recovery points and bar mounts

I also have the same theroy with the hooks, not to say the factory ones are not as strong or stronger but how do you ever no there history, i would rather use a 'rated' hook that may straighten at large load than use a hook that might go forever or might snap in half and turn into a leathal flying object

only my personal feelings, not stupid enough to call someone with more hard yacka 4wheelin experiance than many will ever do wrong.

my question is, rangi has done all this, believing he has made his truck safer,
but some club "rules" say otherwise,
and even if a bloke got engineers to certify his work,
but it still clashes with "club rules", can you see my point?

may just be me but even if i buy a truck with any hook (rated or not) i will replace them, it is a very real risk for what ever hooks on a vechicle to have been damaged at some point and not be visable especially ones people have put a nice coat of yellow paint on covering all marks/cracks

rangimotors wrote:i replace the bolts and would not use the factory ones, 10.9 bolts are still readily available and cheap.
I replace them because from what i understand (limited knowledge)
-high tensile bolts have a limited life, and can be usless if they have been over tightened or used incorrectly
-the factory ones might be 10 or even 20 years old,
-i have no idea of the history of the bolts from factory,
-i don't use the factory captive nuts/holes so am talking them out anyway.
-i find it peace of mind to use new nuts and bolts for recovery points and bar mounts

I also have the same theroy with the hooks, not to say the factory ones are not as strong or stronger but how do you ever no there history, i would rather use a 'rated' hook that may straighten at large load than use a hook that might go forever or might snap in half and turn into a leathal flying object

only my personal feelings, not stupid enough to call someone with more hard yacka 4wheelin experiance than many will ever do wrong.

may just be me but even if i buy a truck with any hook (rated or not) i will replace them, it is a very real risk for what ever hooks on a vechicle to have been damaged at some point and not be visable especially ones people have put a nice coat of yellow paint on covering all marks/cracks

shiney wrote:I think some of us are getting a bit side tracked with this debate now. What Fred Flintstone needs to know that if he is considering joining a club that he will have to abide by thats clubs ruling on hooks and bolts etc. Yes there should be a standard introduced. Whether someone thinks one bolt/hook is stronger than another is irrelevant. Hooks and bolts are also subjected to alot of unecessary stress due to inexperienced 4wheelers supervising recoveries. Bulletproof is correct in his comment regarding hole sizes. All these need to be considered and the owners of these vehilces should be aware of the sort of recoveries their vehilces have been involved in and perform regular checks. Bolts should be replaced regulary if the vehilce has been subjected to alot of extreme recovery situations and should be replaced if uncertain of there age. These items are cheaper to replace than windsreens/panels or a life. Alot of knowledge/experience is freely available at local clubs if someone is uncertain about what to use and usually they have a local engineer they use if he/she requires unbaised comments.

shiney wrote:I think some of us are getting a bit side tracked with this debate now. What Fred Flintstone needs to know that if he is considering joining a club that he will have to abide by thats clubs ruling on hooks and bolts etc. Yes there should be a standard introduced. Whether someone thinks one bolt/hook is stronger than another is irrelevant. Hooks and bolts are also subjected to alot of unecessary stress due to inexperienced 4wheelers supervising recoveries. Bulletproof is correct in his comment regarding hole sizes. All these need to be considered and the owners of these vehilces should be aware of the sort of recoveries their vehilces have been involved in and perform regular checks. Bolts should be replaced regulary if the vehilce has been subjected to alot of extreme recovery situations and should be replaced if uncertain of there age. These items are cheaper to replace than windsreens/panels or a life. Alot of knowledge/experience is freely available at local clubs if someone is uncertain about what to use and usually they have a local engineer they use if he/she requires unbaised comments.

bigbear wrote:So who sells snatch master hooks?

fred flintstone wrote: there must be a engineer or two on here, wat do they say

rangimotors wrote:how many times have you been in an engineers work shop and heard them agree on anything, doesn't matter if they are qualified people still have different ideas and opinions. I have to agree that its best to overkill and be over rated.

HedgeBoar wrote:I imagine that the majority of tow hook failures are caused by the use of a strop/rope with too little stretch.... with a stiff rope, any tow hook will fail if you try snatching..... Surprising how many people you see snatching people out with lifting strops/winch extensions!

Mud Hog wrote:Hi I have just fitted some hooks to the front bar Its an Aussie speed one its alloy. I have put two steel 10mm plates on the under side of the bar the plates are 30mm X 60mm. Any ideas if this will hold or rip through the alloy? Have'nt tested it but will do so gradually and cautiously.

Mud Hog wrote:Hi I have just fitted some hooks to the front bar Its an Aussie speed one its alloy. I have put two steel 10mm plates on the under side of the bar the plates are 30mm X 60mm. Any ideas if this will hold or rip through the alloy? Have'nt tested it but will do so gradually and cautiously.

Sadam_Husain wrote:

bigbear wrote:So who sells snatch master hooks?

Your local Cookes outlet or 4wdbits.co.nz