Offroad-Express

mount it behind the glovebox. If it gets deep enough that its wet there I think you may have more serious issues to worry about. But yea they can be mounted in a box

cool, I'll look at where I can mount it , don't think I'll bother waterproofing the link then, thanks for the feedback.

Jerry wrote:cool, I'll look at where I can mount it , don't think I'll bother waterproofing the link then, thanks for the feedback.

easy detachable will mean you can grab it for warm and dry safe keeping when you abandon ship and jump into the liferaft

you dont want them in an airtight box as they use that rubber tube as the map sensor and if the box is sealed it can get funny ambient pressure readings.i,ve got mine in a semi sealed box ,all my cables exit thru a grippa gland which gives you a little space between the wires for air pressure to equalise ,and its in my glovebox which protects it from splashes etc

You may be suprised what they can handle I have seen a few very wet (dripping) in jetboats so I don't think splashing would be much of an issue, one thing to be aware of is how far water can travel up a wireing loom so if you have a flange or similar the water can creep past it in the loom.

But you have to be half full of water for that to even look possible and the dash can hold a bit of air for a while.

Good point about the wiring. My loom exits downwards so there should be no chance of water travelling up the loom and hitting the connector.

Matt.

Quick update, pulled the dash apart (what wasn't apart or missing ) on Sat morning and had a nosey round the wiring, tidied what I could quickly and put the dash back together, Reece came over and helped mount the link above the glovebox inner and then helped with sorting out installing both battery trays and the rest of the oils. then we did his 2 diffs. thanks for your help Reece, Reece Jnr polished the steering wheel and mirror (forgot to tell him don't polish the mirror thingy just the other shiny bits )

Reece then mentioned the flux capacitor intercooler transfer relay gear thingy looked a bit dodgy and insisted on checking it out with a test drive round the block or 2....

Heres some more pics

Rebuilt Dash



Dual Battery Trays (only 1 is connected currently)


Dumb question time

This thingy here which has been blanked off is a cold starting sensor like a choke thingy


pull it off and the revs shoot up, I understand that this in the soarer or whatever it came out of had it plumbed to the airbox, Have been told the reason its like it is coz the Link5 is only running a Lem1 program which doesn't control the choke function (lem3's or something do), or is this controlled internally by this sensor/fuel injection?, if so then I can plumb this to the airbox.

Thoughts?

That is the idle control valve and yes it has a connection to the intake trunking and a wiring plug as well.

I have a G1 Link V5 in my Surf and the cold start is hard but once it's running it's fine. Mine idles at about 750 - 800 which is a touch higher than my Soarer 1UZ does.

Matt.

It is the ISCV which is used for cold starting,When you turn your key on to start the starter motor it turns the cold start injector on at the same time also starting the timer that controls when to turn it off when temp is reached..if you're gonna use a Links+ then you could just blank it off and plug the hole in the inlet..This took me a lot of trouble shooting to get this sorted..BTW i'm using the original ecu..

could I wire it up to a switch so it works like a choke?

I suppose you could..there's a plug back left single wire coloured black(looking at the mota, throttle body on the left-drivers side)..that is the wire you need to give 12v to..Only if you would use the original ecu as it then tells the ecu it's a cold start and then it looks for the timer switch(This could be turned on when the black wire is fed 12v.. etc etc..This might be on it's own circuit ,I'd have to check my diagrams,etc..
There's a brown 2 pin plug under the loom by the water bridge..next to the temp sender unit(that goes to the dash)..to the left of the brown plug there is a green plug..these 2 plugs are part of the cold start system..brown 1 is the timer,green is the efi temp sensor..there work hand in hand.it's possible to get it to work.Hope that helps..cheers
BTW if you're going to use a electric winch..I would upgrade to 32 m2 cable at a minimum..(I use 64 m2 )as those cables you have are too thin..

winch needs stripping anyway as it hasn't been used for ages and appears to have siezed, when the sparky work is done the winch wiring will be redone..... it seems to start ok now just need to let it warm up for 30 seconds..... might have a look at the wiring and see if it can be made to work...

If it ain't broke don't fix it!

Reece, you are drooling again ..... even one of my neighbours wants to take it for a spin round the block or 2 on Sat Guess I'm not trying hard enough to pi55 them off

Jerry wrote:winch needs stripping anyway as it hasn't been used for ages and appears to have siezed, when the sparky work is done the winch wiring will be redone.....

Unless its been left full of water it should be ok Jerry, the clutch is usually pertty tight to disenguage and they dont free spool very well coz you've still got the drag of all the reduction gears

When Reece had a look both solenoids were just going "click" (its an 8074 .... same as an 8274 but doesn't freespool ... the 8274 does and this can be upgraded to an 8274).

Jerry wrote:When Reece had a look both solenoids were just going "click" (its an 8074 .... same as an 8274 but doesn't freespool ... the 8274 does and this can be upgraded to an 8274).

Oh.... might be buggared solanoids or motor then
easy to fix but not cheap

Check motor with jumper leads.

Solinoids are cheaper that a motor so hope it is one of them!

If you are running a G1 Link then the cold start is pretty marginal really. You don't need the idle control valve, the G1 won't control it very well, but the cold start enrichment function on the Link is quite basic and hard to work with.

Mine is exactly the same, start it and let it run for a minute or so and then it's sweet.

Matt.

you need to upgrade to the latest most expensive link otherwise it wont run very well, you can also program it to tell you that there IS actually a second gear offroad. otherwise wellingtonretardb could buy it to eat his stuff in the back of

Once it's running and warmish it will run fine.

You would be hard pressed to tell the difference between a G1 and a G3 in a 4x4.

The G3 is miles better but probably not needed offroad.

Matt.

its working so I'll probably just leave it as it is...... if it blows up then I can always steal bits of Turoa's lexus....

Jerry wrote:.... if it blows up then I can always steal bits of Turoa's lexus....

I thought that was a secret??? man I haven't been spending enough time on this site.

bloody hell jerry, every time i come online your avatar is somthing new

basics wrote:bloody hell jerry, every time i come online your avatar is somthing new

hesgotta change something, coz the truck is getting nowhere

he even turned down an enmasse welly working bee at his place to make inroads into the pos

ok better give an update.... had the fuel line sorted a couple of weeks ago, its going in for a WOF tomorrow morning ....

I'd better bring my heart pills and extra writing paper for the wof man in case he has a big list

Shit have you still got that thing Jerry..... I thought you sold it months ago?

Ok just got back with a suprisingly small list

Brakes (which should just be checking the pistons are ok, new pads, new fluid and a good bleed.
Drivers seatbelt (may just need some crc on the mechinism).
Mudflap (which is in a box of bits it came with I think).