Offroad-Express

Andrew1706 wrote:Can anyone tell us off the top of their head how long the body bolts are, and how long they need to be for 2" lift?

Front mounts inside the grill you need M10x 200mm, dunno what you'll need for the rest coz mines a cab/chassis and I used M10x 150mm bolts. Might be the same for inside the cab of a SWB/MWB but I'd only be guessing?

minimun wrote:still not seeing anything on a 3B-t

That's because from the factory there is no such thing. The 3B is indirect injection and was never released with a turbo. The 13B and 13B-T share the same bore and stroke as the 3B but have direct injection, with the 13B-T having a lower compression ratio to suit forced induction. You can tell a 3B from a 13B-T as the 3B has glow plugs in the head and the 13B-T has a glow screen in the intake.

The 13B-T is most desirable but like any diesel the 3B will respond well to a sensible amount of boost. How about some pics of the engine bay/turbo?

smurf182 wrote:

minimun wrote:still not seeing anything on a 3B-t

That's because from the factory there is no such thing. The 3B is indirect injection and was never released with a turbo. The 13B and 13B-T share the same bore and stroke as the 3B but have direct injection, with the 13B-T having a lower compression ratio to suit forced induction. You can tell a 3B from a 13B-T as the 3B has glow plugs in the head and the 13B-T has a glow screen in the intake.

The 13B-T is most desirable but like any diesel the 3B will respond well to a sensible amount of boost. How about some pics of the engine bay/turbo?

Just do not be tempted to over boost the girl and she will last okay, starting at a 20: 1 comp ratio and turbo should not exceed about 5 psi boost. have fun in her she looks like a nice tidy truck.

so we have established its a 3B with an aftermarket turbo set up
my boost guage came today so will wire it in and see how much its running and alsogot a new temp guage. can never be to careful

and one for the pic whores

Thats a 3B alright, a relatively early model too with the inline injector pump. The later models had a rotary pump and the fuel filter mounted on the firewall (known sometimes as a 3B-2). Not sure when the changeover occurred, though I had a 3B-2 in my '85 BJ73.

Forget the 2"lift...or you'll just fall over when you add the bigger tires.. Best to do a spring lift OR leave the OEM springs and lift the body with bigger tires but not both.. 70's are pretty tipy as they are..cheers

Big wrote:Forget the 2"lift...or you'll just fall over when you add the bigger tires.. Best to do a spring lift OR leave the OEM springs and lift the body with bigger tires but not both.. 70's are pretty tipy as they are..cheers

i've already started to learn they are very tippy. Will most likely just do the body lift although i dont have much space between the springs and bump stops so will have to sort something out

my truck is the swb with the 13b-t and pto winch. cruzerboy on here has a swb with 13b-t aswell so they must have come out factory swb turbo.tippy indeed my truck is sprung over and looks very tippy but it sits on some good angles without falling over.you get to know what it can and cant do

Id go with a suspension lift rather than a body lift as body lifts need to be certed. Plus suspension lift will give you better flex, if possible get some adjustable shocks so you can soften them up when driving offroad and stiffen them up when on the road, that way you don't loose much of your on road handling.

Just my 2 cents.

Disco-Blue wrote:Id go with a suspension lift rather than a body lift as body lifts need to be certed. Plus suspension lift will give you better flex, if possible get some adjustable shocks so you can soften them up when driving offroad and stiffen them up when on the road, that way you don't loose much of your on road handling.

Just my 2 cents.

Both sysp lifts and body lifts need to be certified, so which ever way you go you will have that expence. I have a bj74 MWB and have a 80mm over size shackles, extra leaf added to springs and a 2" body lift, also removed the front sway bar. handles like the good year blimp but you get used to it, I am running 35" wranglers on -24 offset rims with 36mm spacers and have good articulation and no rub, although spacers are to large to be legal so technically should not be using them on the road but will be getting some custom offset 10" wide rims when the wallet rcovers.

Sadam_Husain wrote:

minimun wrote:also i want to know if i have a gbox which can use a PTO. its the H55F and has a cover on the back of the box but i havnt opened it to have a look

Yep the split transfercases can run PTO's but you'll have to pop the cover off to see if it has the PTO drive gear installed, some transfercases just had a spacer on the shaft instead of the drive gear. If it hasnt got the drive gear you'll have to find someone with an old transfercase you can rob one out of

will maybe have a look this weekend if it doesnt bloody rain

minimun wrote:will maybe have a look this weekend if it doesnt bloody rain

With PTO Drive gear




Without PTO drive gear



Disclaimer: pics stolen from some website somewhere

oh bloody hell cheers for that Sadam

Oh yeah and you just look through the PTO plate on the side you dont have to dissassemble the whole transfercase to check

Sorry minimum I couldnt help that one

Sadam_Husain wrote:Oh yeah and you just look through the PTO plate on the side you dont have to dissassemble the whole transfercase to check

Sorry minimum I couldnt help that one

hahaha was starting to think my weekend would be taken up with "hmmmmm i'm pretty sure this bit fell outta here"

bugger tippy.. spring over. 2" body lift. Airbags.. run 37-44"'s with ease.. And now i miss having it... bugger

callum007 wrote:bugger tippy.. spring over. 2" body lift. Airbags.. run 37-44"'s with ease.. And now i miss having it... bugger

so if it isn't tippy then you never tipped yours over

thats correct.. hence the fact that the body is imaculate and does not have scaffold pipe replacing the bent panels.