Offroad-Express

Smurf wrote:can you take the rotor and caliper off your diff without removing brake line? If so rotate so bleed nipple is at the top, with the rotor still fitted into the caliper then bleed and refit. A bit of a rangi idea but would get rid of your air bubble.
Bleed nipples must be at the top to remove air as the trapped air will always sit at the highest point inside the caliper

SNAP

And so it is true!

Tonight I took the callipers off (one at a time) jammed a small section of pipe between the pads (larger diameter than thickness of disks for ease of refitting) and held them with bleeder up, all the air came up and now I have pedal and it stops the disk turning!!

Finished putting it all back together, fitted axle seals, and axles, filled transfer case and diff with oil - now it should be mobile (ran out of time to test) Been about 6-7 weeks. Just need to do handbrake cables and 'should' be all done on this project.

First trial run this morning.

Need to re-route a brake hose! One side just rubbed on the rim and went right through and lost my brake fluid . New hose needed! Its easy to re-route as I was choosing between to options and took the one I did for a slightly more direct route, but the other will be fine, once I get the hose from Chch — another trip in, bother it!

sounds like its all goin according to plan though bud... wicked cool!

well done...

Got the new hose and fitted and bled.

All mobile again but can't say the brakes are stunning still. no worse than before tho. Think I will rebleed after a little use.

Still need to sort the hand brake cables, going into town tomorrow to get that sorted...

Ran into trouble with the hand brake cables, they are going to have to run under the axle, not the best. I think really these brackets are not ideal. The two positions I can put the callipers that set up the hand brake well make it hit the bump stop.

Does any one have a different bracket design for subby callipers onto cruiser axle?

Got a WOF coming up next month so need to get it sorted.

Still haven't got the hand brake sorted yet but decided to pull the right side brake apart as its been making a noise and I knew it was a little out of line. But when pulled apart I discovered the pads (both sides of disk) have worn down 3.5mms!... since late November! Something wrong here! with WOF coming up very soon I might have to look at an alternative.

have you tried bleeding the booster first before doiing the front and rear?, had endless trouble with my old lj71 and this was the fix

Does any one have a different bracket design for subby callipers onto cruiser axle?

looking at this for my rear lj71 drums, need to get a plate made ... , not sure if the prado rears are the same as the normal 70 rear drums....

Jerry wrote:have you tried bleeding the booster first before doiing the front and rear?, had endless trouble with my old lj71 and this was the fix

Had no trouble with the bleeding once I got that sorted

Trying to figure how its eaten so much of the pads away in only a few months.

Jerry wrote:

Does any one have a different bracket design for subby callipers onto cruiser axle?

looking at this for my rear lj71 drums, need to get a plate made ... , not sure if the prado rears are the same as the normal 70 rear drums....

Not sure how different they are. But mine is full floating.

Two things could cause this that I can think of

1) the slide pins on in the caliper on one side must be siexed or stiff and is not letting the caliper release once the brake pedal is released (will apply but won't release). Pull it apart and make sure everything is free to move not just pivot.

2) air in the brake caliper still, once the brake is used a couple of times air heated can expand and put the brakes on, the claiper gets warmer the brakes get firmer. I chased this for a couple of hours after a race where one caliper was sticking on the track and not in the pits, an old guy came up and said "sounds like you missed air in the caliper to me boy" and walked off. Bugger me if I did blead it longer under pressure air did come out and here was me thinking I bled it twice already you old coot

the last thing is the handbrake not releasing both sides but as you don't have one at the moment it won't be that

The Rotors are too thick. I had the same problem with mine when using the standard front Cruiser rotor. I think its something to do with the auto adjust for the handbrake but not sure. I'm now using hilux rotors part no.TR154 from BnT about $70 incl GST each.

H2OLOVA wrote:The Rotors are too thick. I had the same problem with mine when using the standard front Cruiser rotor. I think its something to do with the auto adjust for the handbrake but not sure. I'm now using hilux rotors part no.TR154 from BnT about $70 incl GST each.

I'm going to have to catch up and imitate your set\up Jase. Will the semi/full floating difference affect things much? Have you done a SOA? Where does your hand brake mech fit? Do you have a pattern for your brackets?

fweddy wrote:I'm going to have to catch up and imitate your set\up Jase. Will the semi/full floating difference affect things much? Have you done a SOA? Where does your hand brake mech fit? Do you have a pattern for your brackets?

Not much, yes, factory handbrake with new cables and yes

After talking to Jase and seeing the results he's had with his hilux rotors its back to head scratching.

Is it possible to fit the front hubs to the rear full floating and run the whole front cruiser brake set up - and then do a drive shaft handbrake?

fweddy wrote:Is it possible to fit the front hubs to the rear full floating and run the whole front cruiser brake set up - and then do a drive shaft handbrake?

I think the rear hubs are deeper than the front ones?

Sadam_Husain wrote:I think the rear hubs are deeper than the front ones?

You might be right - I've just had my head under the guard and am wanting to try but can't be bothered removing it all to do so.

With the disc conversions I did on FF cruiser axles I had 1mm machined from each side of each new rotor as well as the inner hole machined out before fitting them, this stopped the too-wide issue. As Steve said tho, check the bleeding, they will probably need doing again.

The bracket design I have fits the Nissan Maxima calipers - but the handbrake setup works fine with a small mod to each handbrake actuator on the calipers - just pin the standard handbrake cables directly to it. I'll see if I can find any photos, but I don't know if I ever took any.

{edit} also, you can't use the front hubs, they are a different body-length {/edit}

Steve

SupraLux wrote:With the disc conversions I did on FF cruiser axles I had 1mm machined from each side of each new rotor as well as the inner hole machined out before fitting them, this stopped the too-wide issue. As Steve said tho, check the bleeding, they will probably need doing again.

The bracket design I have fits the Nissan Maxima calipers - but the handbrake setup works fine with a small mod to each handbrake actuator on the calipers - just pin the standard handbrake cables directly to it. I'll see if I can find any photos, but I don't know if I ever took any.

{edit} also, you can't use the front hubs, they are a different body-length {/edit}

Steve

HOLY CRAP!!! Ghosts are real!!



Good to see ya back Steve

I'm not back, honest Anyway, here are the only pics I have - hope they help

Steve

http://www.4wdstuff.co.nz/lcff_disc_rear

SupraLux wrote:The bracket design I have fits the Nissan Maxima calipers - but the handbrake setup works fine with a small mod to each handbrake actuator on the calipers - just pin the standard handbrake cables directly to it. I'll see if I can find any photos, but I don't know if I ever took any.
Steve

Do you have brackets or pattern available?

Is it only the maxima that has those callipers - I know a mate who has/had a cefiro that might be available for parts.

I can get some made, but they are not cheap by the time they are machined. I can't give a time-frame but I will see about getting some laser cut for you in the next few days...

I have a funny feeling the Cefiro is just a renamed Maxima so they just might work... if not then I can probably organise a cheapish set of Maxima ones for you.

Steve

i have the set up steve is talking about on my truck thats in those photos he did them for me and i am still very happy with them.handbrake was very reliable to

SupraLux wrote:I can get some made, but they are not cheap by the time they are machined. I can't give a time-frame but I will see about getting some laser cut for you in the next few days...

I have a funny feeling the Cefiro is just a renamed Maxima so they just might work... if not then I can probably organise a cheapish set of Maxima ones for you.

Steve

Thanks - would be keen on a price if you can.

Would like to see a setup if pos - Where are you zookfest?

im local mate live in chchch was out in cruzerboys truck last time i saw you,i have almost finished my new truck witch has the rear disc brakes swapped into it ill pm you when i get a chance to get some photos and ill be out before long anyway

zookfest wrote:im local mate live in chchch was out in cruzerboys truck last time i saw you,i have almost finished my new truck witch has the rear disc brakes swapped into it ill pm you when i get a chance to get some photos and ill be out before long anyway

Sounds good!

the coolest bit is its a midi

zookfest wrote:the coolest bit is its a midi

Its all jacked up SOA etc isn't it?

I heard you did a little panel modification... not that you probably would have noticed it amongst all the previous battle scars that truck had

Hope you didn't bust that nice new shiney windscreen...

I'm having some plates made up for the brake mods, so I will have some if needed.

Steve

zookfest wrote:im local mate live in chchch was out in cruzerboys truck last time i saw you,i have almost finished my new truck witch has the rear disc brakes swapped into it ill pm you when i get a chance to get some photos and ill be out before long anyway

Hi guys very interesting reading the amount of work and modification required to get this done, is this the only option here as I have a full floating 40 series to do having just sorted the front ones, by the by the bleed nipples being on the top was a great solver for my install!

I thought there may be something generic like fitting the fronts off a 60 or something, please advise here before I start mine as it would be good to keep it as simple a possible
cheers
Stu