new2zukes wrote:got the hubs etc on but couldnt get the last bit in its the circle clip in the photo does anyone know how to get this in there is no holes in it just a round clip with a gap. also the cv shaft has a little movement on it so that if u push it in you cant get the clip on, is this normal?
There should be little notches in the faces of the gap. Use a set of circlip pliers there and you have to sort of pull the cv towards you at the same time. I have a set of circlip pliers if you need them.
new2zukes wrote:also i was thinking would it be posible to move the left steering arm to the right and vice versa so the rims will clear the arms?
No. The angle they bend relates to the ackerman angle. That is the geometry that makes the inside wheel turn tighter than the outside. Reversing them would stuff this up and you wil end up with no turning circle.
Sounds like you have IFS offset wheels and will either need different offset or use proper spacers.
Toy - Zuk chassis tub, hilux 4.88 axles and transfer, Nissan CA18DE motor and auto trans, sc12 supercharger, 32 10'5 simex, twin motor 8274 custom freespool. Well the parts are all there in various corners of the shed
thanks for that info clears things up a bit more might have to get the centers cut out of the rims and moved a bit out, would be good if i could borrow them at some point no rush though as i wont be moving the truck till i get the steering sorted and finish up other bits n pieces.
Heath wrote:compressed air. Maybe a haynes manual might be a good investment. when you blow them out they may travel a long way so figure out some way of stopping them. if you leave them in the calliper mount then place a bit of wood infront of them and when they blow out they jam against the bit of wood (which is held in place by the mount)
well tryed compressed air again today and closed up all the leaks and had no joy they are firmly embedded when i took them off the axle they needed a hammer to get them off as the brake pads were firmly attached to the disk so it must be siezed or something
Go and find yourself a grease gun , or go nd buy one as you will use it again . Fill it with grease . Take nipple of the gun and you will find it screws straight into the caliper where the brake line goes . Pump away . One of the pistions will come out , if they are really shitty , clean it out so its a smoth fit again and slide it back in and clamp that piston in with a g clamp , pump again and another should come out etc etc . I broke two big g clamps with my supercheepas grease gun . My pistons would not come out even standing on the pedal .
Rotazuk wrote:Go and find yourself a grease gun , or go nd buy one as you will use it again . Fill it with grease . Take nipple of the gun and you will find it screws straight into the caliper where the brake line goes . Pump away . One of the pistions will come out , if they are really shitty , clean it out so its a smoth fit again and slide it back in and clamp that piston in with a g clamp , pump again and another should come out etc etc . I broke two big g clamps with my supercheepas grease gun . My pistons would not come out even standing on the pedal .
This works a treat .
Chris
Have to remember that trick Chris. See Ya never stop learning.
new2zukes wrote:got the hubs etc on but couldnt get the last bit in its the circle clip in the photo does anyone know how to get this in there is no holes in it just a round clip with a gap. also the cv shaft has a little movement on it so that if u push it in you cant get the clip on, is this normal?
yes this is normal in my experience. in the end of the cv shaft there is a thread, find a bolt and screw it in a few turns so you can hang onto and pull it out as you are putting the circlip on. if you dont have circlip pliers, you can put needle nose pliers in the gap and seperate it to put this clip on. also, if you put on end in the groove, you can then put the rest on with a screwdriver. hope all this helps.
well started on the getting the brake pistons out. it works out a treat using the grease gun thanks chris:) but then i got a call from a m8 and ended up spending the rest of the day playing and braking things, went up to the omahuta forest for a play was following a buggy with 35s on and my 29s were no match for the logs and ruts made by logging equiptment. ended up puncturing a tire, ripping the exaust off wich almost defaned me on the way back to the trailer, then there was grease leaking out of my front left hub so thats the list of things to fix before the weekend as im going on a club camp sat and sunday. lucky i got the week off work:)
Sorry to hijack the thread a bit, but just wonder if you (or others) could offer some thoughts.
We did this swap over the holiday period (of course when all shops were closed) and the way we did the rear meant that the u-bolts from the suzuki were too short and with everyone being closed we had to come up with a solution. To get around this we removed the overload spring (the big bugger on the bottom). This meant that we could bolt it all back together and get it useable.
We went for the first trip over the weekend and have alot of movement up and down in the rear diff head (i.e. it moves a lot as the power goes on and off). All the research that I have done it doesn't appear that others are having this problem and the only thing I have done differently is remove that bottom leaf. Just wondering what your thoughts are before we go out and buy some longer u-bolts and re-attach the spring. Will the extra thickness of the spring provide help with reducing the movement in the diff head??
Should also add that at this stage we are still running the suzuki driveshaft until some funds free up to modify the hilux one.
Overall was rapt with the swap. Vehicle is a lot taller than I probably wanted, but figure the extra weight of the diffs should keep it stable enough. Was amazed at the difference in gearing going from 3.73 samurai to 4.89 hilux. Might even be able to get out of 1st gear on the hills.
hey yes i am almost positive that you need a tracktion bar of some sort to stop things moving about it is easy enough to make one up just a bit of tube and a welder. i will be doing the same to mine when everything is sorted. do you have any pics of you finished product? would love to see how someone else has done theirs other than the rock crawlers in the states.
well havent done much on the build this week as i was in auckland for my bros 21st mon and tues then fixed the oil seal in the front of my other zuke and got a new exaust made up its a little louder than i wanted but it will do. its a 2inch with coby muffler.'today i got the rest of the brake caliper apart was a mission broke 3 clamps in the process but its all done now just need to clean all the grease out man it went everywhere. the pic is really poor im swaping my set of rims with a m8s hilux rims so i can get the clearance for the steering arms the wheelbase will then messure 1700mm. i am now after a passenger side steering arm to i can make up my hi-steer kit after looking at the price of snr's histeer arms i just couldnt afford them so will be makeing my own setup.so if anyone has a passenger steering arm off a solid axle hilux they would like to sell id buy it
new2zukes wrote:hey yes i am almost positive that you need a tracktion bar of some sort to stop things moving about it is easy enough to make one up just a bit of tube and a welder. i will be doing the same to mine when everything is sorted. do you have any pics of you finished product? would love to see how someone else has done theirs other than the rock crawlers in the states.
Whipped out to the shed and took a couple before going to work this morning. Will get the truck out again on weekend and take some more. Alternator in getting fixed so couldn't shift it this morning.
We had the approach of trying to get it done the easiest, quickest and simplest way. Nothing has been pulled apart (diffs, brakes etc) so it was just stick it in and get it running and then remodel as we go, hence some things might look a bit rough but should still work and can always take of and tidy up another day.
build looks pretty gd m8, just wondering what you did for your steering what arms did u use and what steering box did u use? il def be using a ps box as my steering is terable anyways. what did you do for your brake lines did you gt extended brake lines or did you join hilux to sammy? i ended up using hilux u bolts for the front of mine i presume ur diffs didnt come with them? i got the front brakes all freeed up and installed them wont have anything else done till next week as im goin camping tomorrow and back to work on monday
The power steering was done already when I purchased it (could take photos of setup if you like). Not sure what it is off, but it looks similar to the normal suzuki steering box, so perhaps off a vitara?? If anyone can help he find out codes etc I will see what I can do for you.
The arm from the box down to the hi-steer arm was a combination of an old hilux draglink and the original suzuki draglink. We just measured the length we need and then cut them both and welded together so we have a tie rod at one end and the normal hole to from the suzuki arm at the other.
For brake lines we just used the original hilux ones and bolted into where the suzuki ended. Haven't had any problems yet, but next time I get a chance will stick it up on some articulation to make sure everything is long enough.
The u-bolts had to be purchased as the old ones had to be cut off as they were rusted solid. Was a mission to find them as it was over the holiday period and everyone was shut so we ended up buying of Jafa. Saved a lot of time as it just bolted on, and got rid of all of the bits and pieces that hang underneath the standard hilux mount.
We used the hilux shocks up front and shifted the mount from the hilux onto the suzuki. The rear is still using the suzuki shocks as we found that the rear leafs weren't allowing alot of downward travel. Will readress the rear shocks when we look at going to springs.
kewl that sounds gd to me. do you find using the ps box you have limits your turning circle as the vitara pitman arms reduce turning circle from what ive heard, it does sound like a vit box as they are easy to put in. i was going for the ifs ps box as its alot stronger and a m8 has one i can av for cheap.il b doin little bits n pieces after work but nothing major till the weekends. oh but b4 i start i need to fix my other zuke as the clutch periodicly stops working like it gets jambed on but think its just the mud going and stuffing things up as been playing in the mud alot
well i ordered my hi-steer arms from jafa tonight so hopefully they will be here in a few days. but can someone tell me how i get the preload on the barings right? do i just use the stock shims/spacers? will be getting the ifs hilux power steer box on the weekend and will be using a vitara pump which i cna get off another m8 of mine for less than tm. then i will mod my tie rod and draglink and make it stronger with gussets and stuff.
well got home and did a few things to get ready for my hi-steer arms that i got off jafa, took the old arms off and the tie rod then took one of the brake hose off but cant work out how to get the fittings off to replace with another one can someone help me out ?
well got the hi-steer arms from snr thanks to jafa. put them in the right place and connected the tie rod a bit too long but il just cut n weld a bigger tube onto it to get the right length. will be getting steering box on weekend hopefully.
new2zukes wrote:well got the hi-steer arms from snr thanks to jafa. put them in the right place and connected the tie rod a bit too long but il just cut n weld a bigger tube onto it to get the right length.
We had the similar problem but were advised against modifying the rod as it would weaken it and then run into problems with bending it. One option we thought of was cutting a bit off each end of the rod and also extending the grove so that the tie rod ends could be wound in a bit further. We did suspect that it would mean you would run out of thread, but sure with a big crescent you could get it to go in far enough.
In the end we stumpled across a passenger side tie rod end from a VX cruiser whichi is shorter and was able to wind it in far enough on both sides to just make it fit. I should actually add that we think it is off a vx cruiser as it was sitting in the back of someones shed and he couldn't remember for sure. It had the same thread as the hilux but was shorter than the hilux one.
We originally tried taking the hilux one into repco to find a shorter one, but all the books they had just gave part numbers and not measurements, and they weren't that keen on opening all the boxes to check sizes.
new2zukes wrote:well got the hi-steer arms from snr thanks to jafa. put them in the right place and connected the tie rod a bit too long but il just cut n weld a bigger tube onto it to get the right length.
We had the similar problem but were advised against modifying the rod as it would weaken it and then run into problems with bending it. One option we thought of was cutting a bit off each end of the rod and also extending the grove so that the tie rod ends could be wound in a bit further. We did suspect that it would mean you would run out of thread, but sure with a big crescent you could get it to go in far enough.
In the end we stumpled across a passenger side tie rod end from a VX cruiser whichi is shorter and was able to wind it in far enough on both sides to just make it fit. I should actually add that we think it is off a vx cruiser as it was sitting in the back of someones shed and he couldn't remember for sure. It had the same thread as the hilux but was shorter than the hilux one.
We originally tried taking the hilux one into repco to find a shorter one, but all the books they had just gave part numbers and not measurements, and they weren't that keen on opening all the boxes to check sizes.
STU
hey thanks for that info, my tie rod atm is a bit bent so its not really ideal to use it my thoughts were to weld a piece of 5mm bar onto the back side of the tie rod to stop it bending as i have seen this on a few trucks before that are running 35s. sorry about the really bad drawing its only on paint hehehe
All the hilux ones we have are to long (not by much but would need modifying to fit) and was going to compare the price of checking out a second hand one compared to shortening the existing one.
well got my p/s box its from a 1987 ifs hilux got all the tie rod and draglink too. only problem i have at the mo is that the drop pitman arm on it sits too low and will hit the springs when it flexes. cant move the box up anymore or the arm hits the chassi. is there a flat arm that can be put on these boxes? or do i need to space the box out from the chassi so the arm moves freely. any help is much apreciated. cheers
