Offroad-Express

Did the guage of steel you used have to be thick to take the extra heat from being so close to the head? Where does the EGT go in this or does it go before the turbo (sorry for the newb question).

I am looking to buy a Prado and this was one of the mods I looked at to get heat away from the head better, that and a free flowing exhaust. Would this prolong the head life?

Are the flexy couplings a requirement for diesel exhausts?

Heath

i used 1.6mm wall. so im not sure how long it will last but its all good at the mo. i dont have a pyro gauge yet but i heard after the turbo was fine and lastly a flexi in any system be it diesal or whatever fuel has to be better imo to reduce cracking and vibration fatigue

Chrome; What did you do to the face of the flange, surface grind , face off in a lathe or leave as is?

How th heck do you remove the top 2 bolts on the downpipe without removing the turbo itself??

top two bolts were done with spanners from the top. bottom two done with a extension bar from underneath. the tops are pretty tight and i had to use another spanner as an extension to loosen them off. crc them a day or two before you do it

So is anyone in NZ willing to make some of these for those of us without any ability in this area?

Willing to pay all costs (within reason), etc for a decent wall thickness and a bolt in replacement for what I have (and have a pyro gauge thingee installed for later). Later when I get the new exhaust this will finish it off.

I would be keen for one as well , any other takers?

Heath wrote:So is anyone in NZ willing to make some of these for those of us without any ability in this area?

Willing to pay all costs (within reason), etc for a decent wall thickness and a bolt in replacement for what I have (and have a pyro gauge thingee installed for later). Later when I get the new exhaust this will finish it off.

Lets face it I'm too tight to buy one from Aussie and then there's the freight etc. So why not buy from NZ and support our industry here!

chrome wrote:i used 1.6mm wall. so im not sure how long it will last but its all good at the mo. i dont have a pyro gauge yet but i heard after the turbo was fine and lastly a flexi in any system be it diesal or whatever fuel has to be better imo to reduce cracking and vibration fatigue

It wont be accurate after the turbo, the pryo gauge sensor has to be before the turbo in the exhaust manifold

Cheers Daniel

Heath wrote:So is anyone in NZ willing to make some of these for those of us without any ability in this area?

Willing to pay all costs (within reason), etc for a decent wall thickness and a bolt in replacement for what I have (and have a pyro gauge thingee installed for later). Later when I get the new exhaust this will finish it off.

would love to have someone in NZ making dump pipes or even whole kits.
i don't know why anyone isn't doing it already. most flanges are available but not the dump pipes

i had to resort to getting one in from Aussie, just got under gst limit and i see the price has gone up since then.
especially with the amount of diesels with cats in them which will be starting to clog up and require replacing.

Lynx wrote:

chrome wrote:i used 1.6mm wall. so im not sure how long it will last but its all good at the mo. i dont have a pyro gauge yet but i heard after the turbo was fine and lastly a flexi in any system be it diesal or whatever fuel has to be better imo to reduce cracking and vibration fatigue

It wont be accurate after the turbo, the pryo gauge sensor has to be before the turbo in the exhaust manifold

Cheers Daniel

for common makes where the temp drop across the turbo is well known you can get by with sensor after turbo. just remember it tends to react a fair bit slower.

pre turbo is better but i would go for a high quality sensor, last thing you want is a sensor to fall to bits and stuff the turbo/engine.

Just bear in mind that not all 1KZ-TE Dump pipes are the same design

tweake wrote:

Lynx wrote:

chrome wrote:i used 1.6mm wall. so im not sure how long it will last but its all good at the mo. i dont have a pyro gauge yet but i heard after the turbo was fine and lastly a flexi in any system be it diesal or whatever fuel has to be better imo to reduce cracking and vibration fatigue

It wont be accurate after the turbo, the pryo gauge sensor has to be before the turbo in the exhaust manifold

Cheers Daniel

for common makes where the temp drop across the turbo is well known you can get by with sensor after turbo. just remember it tends to react a fair bit slower.

pre turbo is better but i would go for a high quality sensor, last thing you want is a sensor to fall to bits and stuff the turbo/engine.

And that is why I would mount it afterwards. My reading on this matter has lead me to believe there is approx a 100deg C drop and if you factor that in it is easy to set limits.

Hey a pyro in the system is better than none at all.

oldblue wrote:Just bear in mind that not all 1KZ-TE Dump pipes are the same design

I guess there is some variance with the vehicle they are mounted in. Prado vs Hilux, etc.

Heath wrote:

oldblue wrote:Just bear in mind that not all 1KZ-TE Dump pipes are the same design

I guess there is some variance with the vehicle they are mounted in. Prado vs Hilux, etc.

yep the chassis rail sits in a different place in the Hilux compared to the Prado. Dump pipes are not compatible between the 2 models.

Heath wrote:Hey a pyro in the system is better than none at all.

Yes, and if you know the temp drop of the trubo and can factor that in the it should be ok

Cheers Daniel

Bump
Any updates on guys making these ?
I am about to pull mine today and start making my own..

Was thinking of using steam pipe bends, nice and thick.

Any help suggestions welcomed.

Cheers
Calvin

Hi All

Finally got mine made and installed.
Been for a blast around the block.
Smooth on the hills and EGT temps have dropped.
Need to take it on some longer trips next week to get a better feel.
Much more louder than before. See how it all goes.
Here are some pics.

Old v's New


Finished Dump Pipe.

Dump and Header pipe.

Bullet Muff and exit pipe.

Cheers
Calvin

that looks smart... you going to make some dump-pipes up

No plans to make any, takes too long and fiddly.
Plus its in the truck now and no templates taken.
Now I know why they charge $250 plus for them....

Cheers Calvin

Where did ya get the flange from? Going to do nthe same (well pay someone) and might need to supply that bit.

Turbo flange and joiner flanges from Autobend....
3" exhaust bends and pipe from STA at the Airport.
Cheapest in town.
Dump pipe elbow from Tube and Steel...Thick walled steam pipe. 2 1/2 inch.
And a section of straight pipe to make the dump pipe with, laying around the workshop in our boiler house.
Couldnt get 3 inch pipe to fit on the turbo flange without major interferance issues with bolt locations and fire wall.
2 1/2 worked great, with a bit of cutting and squashing pipe up a bit.
Opened up exhaust exit size from 35 ish odd mm dia (smallest point) to 60 ish plus.

Cheers
Calvin

Ive heard the dump pipes off the 1kz hiace vans are a lot more free flowing than the standard surf ones.

Good info
For the LWB Prado (old shape) ......They exit in a different spot to the Surf.
The surf (from memory) can exit straight off the back and down and past the transfer case.
The Prado has to get out over the chassis rail and behind the tyre as there is no room to get an exhaust pipe past the transfer case without it being a hang up off road.


Been fun making it. Now its time to enjoy the truck again, been stuck in the garage toooooo long.

Cheers
Calvin

Are you going to add a brace to the gear box from the dump pipe to remove any possibilty of cracking (support the weight of it and the turbo, etc)?

Hi Heath, Thought about it but dont feel the need for a brace as I used thick walled steam pipe.
The ones I have seen on the net that cracked were thin walled stuff.
Also the new pipe is no bigger than the original and also a bit lighter.

There is already a factory brace for the turbo.

But time will tell.

Cheers
Calvin

Sweet. I will be taking the pics off here to show what I want when I get mine made. I like the heavy wall stuff for the dump, just because it is as hot as hades and needs to be able to handle it. Cant see the thin stuff coping (for a life time that is - do it once and do it right...)

Drove her into work today and took it for a WOF.
Passed !. Phew.
Feels like a whole new truck.
Sitting on 100 clicks and give her a nudge and she will pull off better / smoother than before.
Hold the throttle in the right spot and she pulls....and pulls.
Mine being an auto. Drives better now when you use the Power mode, holds the revs up a bit and this is in its sweet spot for my truck.
More than happy with the exhaust.
Next is an off road test in Low range.
Next Mod.....Intercooler. yup yup yup.

Cheers
Calvin

yeah this is one mod i would recommend to anyone running these motors

Is there any benefit to trying to squeeze a 3 inch dump in there? I guess 2.5 inches is still flowing heaps better then before and into a 3 inch system will flow nice and quick.

Dont think I will do quite as short as yours Calvin, but will be using the same type of bullet muffler with the outlet near the origional position on my shortie. Unless that is, I get opinions to counter that idea which make sense.