Offroad-Express

To be honest the cost involved in putting it where I want it might just make the decision for me. Of course I would expect a credit for the labour already done (incorrectly), but I have to speak to them about it. Might just leave it where it is and set the alarm 150 lower than before (that should be a good enough margin).

When I get my new exhaust I will get it mounted as close to the ass of the turbo as possible. Being fiscally responsible about this, the extra cost to move it is probably almost a 1/4 of the cost of the exhaust so maybe I will just live with it and look for another "local garage" to do all my work in future.

Still a little hot under the collar to be honest, but not as pissed as last night.

But hey, Ill wire them up today and have a better indication of what was going on before anyway.

Hi Heath, I fitted a probe and gauge to my 96 1KZ Prado 95# about a month ago and if you had to pay for it it was about 12hrs work, that was a bit of mucking around doing it how I wanted it done, I removed the turbo & exhaust manifold drilled and tapped the manifold for the probe,cleaned everything up and made a stainless plate to sandwich between the EGR pipe, still looks original but no exhaust gets back to the inlet. I then mounted the VDO gauge in a single pod to the A pillar, I am very happy with the end result. While I was under the hood I fitted a full set of belts. Also fitted and plumbed up an additional Trans; cooler.
We did a trip through the Lewis Pass, Westport and up to Karamea a fortnight ago with 30+ deg ambient temperatures towing a 15ft caravan with no problems. The exhaust temperature reached are a little scary, on two occasions I looked to see them at 800deg C, and it was very easy to push them up over 700. 700 is my driving maximum for very short periods, I will normally button off at 650 how ever I find the 1kz to ramp up the temp far quicker than my old 2LTE, may be because it feels as if it has twice the power of the 2LT. I could easily sit on 90kph and at one stage thinking shes going real good looked to see I had crept up to (sorry officer) 120kph. All in all a very good tow wagon but you got to watch those exhaust temperatures.

HOT, HOT & HOTTER,

FITZY.

Yeah going to leave it where it is, as I spoke to the guys doing the work and they estimate another 3 maybe 4 hours if all goes well to do it and to be honest I cant afford it now (friggin tie rod end + wheel align ).

All going now, with temp alarms all set (110C for water and EGT set at 550C) Piezo alarm works well (made a technical error and set the alarm to trigger below my set temp . Great feature, set the limits and it will let you know if you exceed them without having to watch them all the time. I am liking these gauges a lot and I have only had them in for about 1/2 hour.

Cheers kbushnz (Calvin) for the info on the gauges. I think I have room for one more , just got to decide which one (oil presure sender is $60 US - ouch - and is my first pick, but boost is way less).

So Happy as a pig in Shit at the moment.

Okay been runnig for a while now and I need to calibrate (see what everyone else is getting) my alarm setting.

I have mine after the turbo (long story best left alone as it still anoys me) and at 2400rpm on the motorway in 5th I get 335-345 degrees C. What are you guys with them pre turbo getting at that RPM? This way I can guess at the temp drop due to the turbo (and distance from where I wanted it ) and adjust my alarm setting.

Alarm is currently set at 550 and seems to be fine although I have triggered it a few times during my last road trip (mainly long slow hills and passing).

Other than that I love it and the temp gauge.

Gidday Heath

From memory I was pulling 460 to 480 on the flat. Mines an auto.
With 35's (geared back to factory). Slight uphill or head wind and its low 500's to 550.
Long slow climbs and it will eventually creep up to 700... If I try and maintain speed. The auto doesnt help as it wont chop down a gear until the 70 kph mark and if you turn off the OD it rev's its nuts off. (@100kph)

I would take mine for a trip and check it but its in bits as I am doing the Dump pipe and trim off the exhaust.. Turbo / manifold out.

Calvin

It would be very hard to do a comparison test with out being on the same bit of road and conditions, EGT is very at the time dependent and just a bit of extra Jandel or conditions at the time will make 50/100deg C difference. As a ball park figure my readings would be similar to Calvin's, with foot down on slight up hill the gauge will go up as fast as the speedo 800 C +++.
With your reading I would say you will be close at adding 100/130 deg C.

FITZY.

SMOKEY wrote:It would be very hard to do a comparison test with out being on the same bit of road and conditions, EGT is very at the time dependent and just a bit of extra Jandel or conditions at the time will make 50/100deg C difference. As a ball park figure my readings would be similar to Calvin's, with foot down on slight up hill the gauge will go up as fast as the speedo 800 C +++.
With your reading I would say you will be close at adding 100/130 deg C.

FITZY.

Yeah hard to say. I erred on the side of caution and set my alarm 200degC lower than what I would expect before the turbo to give me a bit of safety margin. Not perfect but its better then without and now I find I am driving differntly too (less jandle)

Would the fitting of a supercharger instead of a turbo be as critical with EGT temps or less so?.

I dont think it matters how you compress the air charge. The EGT is a direct result of your fuel air burn...
And if you push it too much the EGTS go up and you could do damage to your engine.
Even non Turbo engines use egt gauges to monitor the engine.
Have a read of this article.
http://www.bankspower.com/techarticles/ ... -important
pretty much says it all.

Cheers
Calvin

Its about the exhaust gas temps rather then the method of craming the air in. An increase over normal levels will show some thing has gone wrong before the engine destroys itself.
(like injector fault, or compressor fault or leak in intake side etc).

Good fault spotting tool and good insurance for when things go bad (like a seat belt - you wear it never intending to need it, but if you don't wear it...).

Ther are some good models out there (like the ones we got) that can do it all and have an alarm light (and audible alarm output too) so you dont have to watch to see the spikes.

My next purchase will be a boost gauge (just a simple one though for where my analogue clock sits in the dash) and when I save up I will get another digital gauge for my oil pressure (the sender costs more then the digital gauge ).

been watching my egt gauge over the last few days and at 100kph 7psi boost it varies between 300-350deg c and need to put my foot down quit a bit to reach the 500's(measured before turbo) idles at about 50c and use to be around the 500's and idle at about 150c before removing egr sys and intercooling it but still have yet to make a down pipe from turbo as am still running factory 2 1/4" exhaust & after reading this thread am pretty happy with these temps.

Simon.

Hi

I thought i would ask a question on this old thread as I am about to fit a Pyro to my 1KZ. I am looking at fitting it on the inside of the exhaust from the bottom. I am not interested in removing the manifold etc to fit it.

Heath do you have a photo of where they fitted your Pyro?

Thanks

No pics but it was fitted into the exhaust pipe directly after the dump pipe. Not my ideal spot as I would prefer it to be as close to turbo as possible.

Some argue pre turbo is better because it a true temp not affected by turbo, others argue post is better incase the pyrometer tip breaks falling away into the exhaust and not damaging the turbo.

Heath