Fitting 33's to a Terrano

[kiwipete]

what is accually required for a 50mm body lift?

i know power steering hoses need to be lengthened, but aparently the radiator has to be shifted?

Check out this post I did of my body lift. Let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=9717&hilit=+body+lift

[Dirtydog]

hey guys, little update,

brought the lift blocks, 70 bucks, and going to get the bolts when they arrive so i can measure what bolts i need, and going to get a a few other things done at the same time, ive got a rattle gun i can use, which will make it soooo much easier, and i can do up the front torsions aswell.

[kiwipete]

If you ordered say 50mm lift blocks, simply remove one of the two front (L/H or R/H) bolts, measure it's length and add 50mm to the length.
That's the total length you will need. Simple as eh?
If you are winding up the torsion bars, leave a 25mm gap minimum at the upper bump stops so you still have some down travel. You will need to et a new wheel alignment ASAP as the castor settings will be all out of whack.





Here's a "doc" I have on the body lift.

Body Lift

Doing the body lift was quite easy.
There are a lot of things to move, and or make longer. It makes quite a long list, but it is just a matter of checking everything that goes from the body to the frame or engine.
Remove the front bumper off the chassis, (two bolts at front inside wheel arch) as the brackets go through a hole in the body!!! The brackets need to be altered.
The plastic grommets inside, under the carpet, that hold the top of the bolts are a bitch to get out. I prised mine out with brute force and damaged them, but they were still OK enough to reuse.
The bolts are M10, except the 2 at the rear that are M12.
The radiator cowl needs to go down the same amount the body goes up. Or remove the lower skirt so it clears the fan blades.
Front brake lines. I stretched the steel brake lines where they coil before going down to the wheels. A better way would be to grind the bracket off the chassis and reattach it after the lift.
According to the US sites you have to lengthen the fuel filler pipe as well with a 75mm lift or simply loosen the hose clamps and adjust the rubber hose to suit.
I had to lengthen the hole through the floor for the transfer case lever.
The rear bumper is no problem to lift, just re-drilled holes in the bracket lower down. Had to remove some misc bits of plastic and a bracket that located the number plate. And modify the tow bar to get that higher too. I left mine as it was, it will be replaced when a new tube bumper is made at a later stage.
The radiator is attached to the body, so it goes up too, relative to the fan. The cowling needs to be moved down to stay in line with the fan. I made up two short pieces of flat to drop the top mounts, re-drilled holes for the screws on the sides, and had to cut some of the bottom off to fit around the radiator bottom hose and transmission cooler pipes. I left mine as it was, just adjusted the lower cowling and have no heating issues.
It is straight forward and defiantly worth the effort.
Five mounting points down each side. Go side to side as the floors are two piece and if you go front to rear as I did you will split the weld and end up with a leaking floor, now gupped.
The steering is on a spline so slides easy enough to adjustment. The power steering lines needed extending but nothing else. If you go over 2" then you will need major modifications i.e.: cutting floor pan to allow for changing gears, extending gear shift lever, and no doubt extending of brake lines.

[Dirtydog]

hey guys, i have decided to sell my truck, for 3,000 and buying a hilux with solid front rear diffs, lsd in rear, and manual, but ruff but its a 1986 surf, the one with the detachable roof.

[sibainmud]

I got 32" Simex's (actual measurment 33.4 inch) on my D21, all i did was 2 inch sus lift and a 2inch body lift. I did my research and fitted 8 inch wide rims at 0 off-set, keeps 9.5 wide inside gaurds. Braced idler arm and ditched the drag-link ball joints in favour of custom fitted bronze bushes and M16 high tensile bolts. This wil keep it all level and the left wheel follows the right one exactly! I haven't had any cv breaks, but have spare set of heavy duty ones off a wide body and a set of manual hubs to suit the bigger splines. My truck was naturally aspirated, so runs 4.875:1 ratio diffs, this maybe the secret to not breaking any cv's. With a standard turbo fitted, and relief valve removed with wastegate disconnected, I'm getting almost 20psi rammed down it's neck! Of course i've turned fuel up, but considering it's a (natrual) pump with no mod's, I'm doing OK.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_nzllrgKZQ

Cheers, hope this helps.

[kiwipete]

ditched the drag-link ball joints in favour of custom fitted bronze bushes and M16 high tensile bolts. This wil keep it all level and the left wheel follows the right one exactly! I haven't had any cv breaks

Have you any pictures or further details of these mods?
I am looking at fitting a EGT gauge and will increase boost and tweak the fuel soon too.

[sibainmud]

I'll put together a few pics and get them posted asap. All of my mods are simple and easy to fabricate. Stand by. Cheers.

[sibainmud]

[sibainmud]

These are the pics of all the steering mods and clearances on my Terrano when i fitted 32" simex's that actually measure 33.4".







It all works and is the best I can do!
Cheers Guys, I hope this helps.

[kiwipete]

Thanks for posting the pics, they tell a thousand words. Whats the bars you have done on the front?

[sibainmud]

Factory fitted sway bar. As much as I'd like more flex, until it is trailered around I can't give up the reasonible road handling! Cheers

[kiwipete]

Sorry I meant your front bumper bars, and rear for that matter.

[sibainmud]

Oh
Front is a ARB winch bar(took 6 months of searching on Trade Me to find it!).
Rear is a custom made solid steel made from 6mm walled box section (bought off Trade Me from a guy who delivered it from the Waikato for $30!).
The guy I meet on a run up at Suzuki Extreme park with similar truck got his front bar.

PS. I drilled the grease holes through bronze bushes so the M16 bolts are all greaseable.
Cheers.

[kiwipete]

Oh
Front is a ARB winch bar(took 6 months of searching on Trade Me to find it!).
Rear is a custom made solid steel made from 6mm walled box section (bought off Trade Me from a guy who delivered it from the Waikato for $30!).
The guy I meet on a run up at Suzuki Extreme park with similar truck got his front bar.

PS. I drilled the grease holes through bronze bushes so the M16 bolts are all greaseable.
Cheers.

You have done a good job of beefing that steering, pity it isnt certifiable.

[Dirtydog]

hey guys,

little update,

haven't sold the truck, guy that was going to buy it brought another car, so looks like the projects back on the way.

received my body lift blocks, just need some bolts, and just a few small things.

ordering rear springs for it very soon, probably from 4wdbitz or simmilar, and they are going to be installed.

not too far off putting them on now.

just wondering, where can one aquire an idler arm brace, and for what price?

[ClassicCruiserSpares]

I had a terrano with 33" mudzillas on 8" rims and all i had was a 2" body lift and trimmed the front and rear gaurds, and also put in the calmini heavy duty steering. But i never broke any cvs and my truck was a v6.

[Dirtydog]

i decided to do the body lift and spring lift because it isnt that expensive in the end, and it does save a bit of trimming.

also, does anyone have a 33x12.5 mudstar lying around? i need a fourth mudstar then ill have a full set insted of 3 mudstars and 2 hankooks

[kiwipete]

For the idler arm brace, I suggest you look at what has been posted and fab something up yourself. Mine was a Calmini one left over from someone else's mods that I got nice n cheap.

[juz]

I got Idler Arm brace from 4WD1.com for my old navara, along with few other bits, Think there just Calmini ones onsold but was good bit of kit and probably cheaper than what could get it made for.

[Dirtydog]

i think i might go to one of the local engineers and get them to fab one up, cause i dont trust my welding as much as i should, might also quote up the bumper mounts to for the bodylift.

and would it be worth getting rid of the towbar? theres been more than 2 times where it has almost stopped me from getting unstuck, and i dont really use it, but it does seem to add protection to the back, as its the first and last thing to tack the knocks from steps and rocks

maybe i should just get a bar made up that bolts up to the tow bar mounts, that sits below the bumper to take the knocks.

[kiwipete]

i think i might go to one of the local engineers and get them to fab one up, cause i dont trust my welding as much as i should, might also quote up the bumper mounts to for the bodylift.

That's probably the easiest thing for you at this stage.

and would it be worth getting rid of the towbar? theres been more than 2 times where it has almost stopped me from getting unstuck, and i dont really use it, but it does seem to add protection to the back, as its the first and last thing to tack the knocks from steps and rocks

Perhaps just leave the towbar for now, concentrate on one thing at a time?

maybe i should just get a bar made up that bolts up to the tow bar mounts, that sits below the bumper to take the knocks

This is what I will be doing much later when funds allow, first I need to get the front bars altered to fit.

[Dirtydog]

sounds like the way to go with the towball then,

i might try to sort out some rims that arnt new as i dont see the point in paying so much for something.

[kiwipete]

sounds like the way to go with the towball then,

You can remove the towball and put a rated shackle in its place for towing.

i might try to sort out some rims that arnt new as i dont see the point in paying so much for something.

Try a junk yard for some factory steel rims and paint them yourself?

[Dirtydog]

only problem is i am looking for rims with an offset. in the - 's

and i am unsure how safe it would be on the road with 33x12.5's on 7's or 8's im prefably putting them on 15x10s

[kiwipete]

only problem is i am looking for rims with an offset. in the - 's

and i am unsure how safe it would be on the road with 33x12.5's on 7's or 8's im prefably putting them on 15x10s

I have 15x8's on mine and have 33x12.5 tyres. They fit nicely on 15x8's
The steel rims I got are -19 offset and I'm certed for -24. I cannot remember how to work out the offset, but think there is a calculator on 4wdbits website.
I was going to look for some factory steel rims, but opted for the commercial ones as I got a good deal.

[marmel]

only problem is i am looking for rims with an offset. in the - 's

and i am unsure how safe it would be on the road with 33x12.5's on 7's or 8's im prefably putting them on 15x10s

You definately don't need 10" rims to run 12.5" tyres. 7" or 8" will be fine.

[marmel]

I had a set of Hilux rims on my Terrano, spaced the wheels out nicely although you will need to use flares to keep it legal.

I had 31X10.5 tyres fitted.

[Dirtydog]

my brother told me alot about offsets, - moves the center of the rim towards the body, therefore making the tire come outwards.

i will look at the local wreckers then, i know theres a hilux there with some 10.5s on it, and the rims are white spoke ones, so ill see how much they want for them.

[kiwipete]

my brother told me alot about offsets, - moves the center of the rim towards the body, therefore making the tire come outwards.

i will look at the local wreckers then, i know theres a hilux there with some 10.5s on it, and the rims are white spoke ones, so ill see how much they want for them.

Keep us informed on progress. There's plenty of us Terrano nuts on here willing to give advice.

[Dirtydog]

lol well cheers heaps,

ive injured my foot and have the next 4 days off, so i should be able to get more progress done on it.

i took the front bumper off, to give her a good clean and discovered why it has been running a bit hot lately.

i cleaned ALOT out of the radiator, so im gunna get some mesh or something for behind the grill to stop bugs etc from getting in there, theres a few dents in it now from them, and a bird hit it at some stage and almost pierced it by the looks.

ordering rear springs for her tommorow, to give her 50mm lift, and the high tensile bolts i am still to locate.