Offroad-Express

yea it should get a warrant once i tidy up a bit of rust here and there as well as the paper work
ill keep that in mind is it just the side windows and the doors your after

the rear ambulance style doors (red circled bit)

and the full sides which bolt off (yellow circled part)



is there a possible time frame you're lookin at for when ya wanna flick em?

cheers mudfish..

oh ok yea i was thinkin bout just choppin behind the door and just in front of the quarter window at the rear then re weld and blend the two together short ute style if youve got one like that id swap it
so it probably wouldnt be much help for you and it was quite a long way in the pipeline

you mean so it would sorts be like the back this ones cab?



just find a truck cab for sale bud...

and then get the rear doors and sides onto nib's build..

well heres the latest progress
snorkel has been sealed up
winch and pto mounted

just the shafts to finish now
got the air shocks working at the back as well
shackels just bout finished just got to finish pins

shackle reversal confusion
ive got the axle off and the chassis is all cleaned up reatact the
but im unsure where the front mounts go in relation to the end of the frame.
flush with the end or slightly forward of it

mudfish wrote:shackle reversal confusion
ive got the axle off and the chassis is all cleaned up reatact the
but im unsure where the front mounts go in relation to the end of the frame.
flush with the end or slightly forward of it

Got mine flush - Hope this pic helps...

yea im leaning towards that setup to but how much does that affect the wheelbase and steering alignement im thinking about running a similar system for the power steering

mudfish wrote:yea im leaning towards that setup to but how much does that affect the wheelbase and steering alignement im thinking about running a similar system for the power steering

Wont affect your wheel base unless you also do a spring reversal - which I have done and would recommend.

If you go Spring Over Axel you will also need to cut the knuckle and turn it back to adjust for the change in angle (check Nibliks BJ40 project build thread for more detail).

hae lastest progress on the 40
sr completed
wheel arches cut
before the cut
after with 35s on

next on the list powersteering
ive got a later model surf box and pump is there any reason why it wont work and what do i have to do differently compared to the standard system and the system on a 70 series cruiser (dads farm hack)

I've got one sold my heavy lwb safari love it ,Ive had 2 surfs and the safari but fj40 is the bees kness.
Has anyone got a steering box with drop arm in need off one can anyone held

When I had my old 40 I cut the rear guards out to match the inner guard shape, I left about 20mm to tap back into the inner guard so there wernt any sharpe edges around the body work

just a thought mate looking at your first pic there,the pinion of your front diff should be pointing at your transfer output to keep everything in line and not chew out uj`s,thats why MNC`s front hanger is lower,it may also affect your caster angle.

when he puts weight on diff (ie back on its wheels...) it should bring it back into line more...

Anymore progress pix there mudfish?

hae guys lastest progress sori no more pics digital camera no playing the game
rear guards bogged and sanded back
top removed
im having major problems with the powersteering the tyres rub on the arm at full lock and on full articulation the arm itself hit the spring i cant move things higher because it will move out of the frame rail and the mounting is stuck in the area where the crossmember rivets to the frame rail the box is off a 1993 surf that a mate had
any thoughts ideas ould be much appercaited
cheer

maybe just adjust the bump stops so the spring doesnt travel upwards as much and then its leavin the pitman arm free to actuate left and right...

other than that, what arm ya using? is it still the old 40 series setup with a hilux power steerin conversion? if not, then a flatter pitman might work..

a pic of the setup and prob would be a great help, but i still am meaning to drop by sometime for a nosey..

pics as requested guys

rubs on arm on full lock

bump stop doesnt line up anyway suggestions on possible new ones please

arm catches spring straight would solve it is any toyota arm campatible with the box or do i need a specfic one

sweet.. well fella, the only way i see it is to either

a; put on some spacers..
b; increase the offset of your rims...
c; wind out the bump stops on your steering (not really a good option as kills your turning circle..)

the arm will move more to the other side as you steer that way so should clear the arm, but i think from what your sayin is the spring is gettin hit? in that case as above is applicable...

as for bump stops not lining up, i think they bolt on dont they? you could unbolt and move em a tad ie retap into chassis, or rebolt or weld back on? (not sure on legalities of weldin em..)

or ya could do an ifs hub swap to widen the front width and space the tyre away from spring more..

what kind of box did ya use

I know when I did mine, it was placed on inside of chassis rail

its a bit hard to se from the pic exactly where yours is

need a pic taken from slightly further away

SKIDS had a Cressida box on it from memory? i used a bighorn one on mine cause it sits on the inside of the rail,you need a 60 or 70 series box as they can be mounted more centrally and the arm points forward,make sense? and no you cant turn the arm around

turn the springs around to shunt the axle forward to line up with the bump stops for a start. the pitman arm has the same sector size and spline as all of the hilux and cruisers and they dont have a master spline so you can just pop it off and rotate the arm a couple of splines to clear your tyres and that will not affect the turning noticibly.

adogg wrote:SKIDS had a Cressida box on it from memory? i used a bighorn one on mine cause it sits on the inside of the rail,you need a 60 or 70 series box as they can be mounted more centrally and the arm points forward,make sense? and no you cant turn the arm around

That box looks like its off a 70 series to me - they have the arm pointing to the rear (unless you've switched it round and them be prepared for some reverse steering).

the box is off a 1993 surf that a mate had

its a surf one mate

adogg wrote:

the box is off a 1993 surf that a mate had

its a surf one mate

Right, I should learn how to read...

all gud points guys
the wheel hitting arm shouldnt be to much of a problem
its the arm hitting the spring and the bump stops if swap the springs round things go way out of wack 75mm forward of the stops
pics of the steering box

just flip the springs around mate,so the short side is to the front,that way the long side at the back with the shackle attached to it will do all the flexing!! bonus is you get a slightly longer wheelbase,better approach angle too,just gotta lengthen the driveshaft,i just chopped down a 45 one but you could use a 60 series one,should be longer?

lastest progress
springs switched not sure wether it solves the power steering problem but it does give a wicked aproach angle so losses and gains

your gettin there mate!flipping the leafs makes for a wicked approach angle ay?!! you might have to look at a different steering box though,or make a flat steering arm,is it gonna be a road legal rig? i would imagine not? i would just heat that arm up and flatten it in a press then bury it in sand to let it cool slowly