Offroad-Express

= only trying to save your money

kiwipete wrote:

zephyrheaven wrote:Kaiapoi Radiators - Steve is a realist

Thanks, but a tad too far to travel on the scooter.

you wont be able to afford a scooter after dealing with A1

Lots of questions and answers.
Do you still have the shroud on the radiator? (this make a big difference when in the conditions you describe).
Like kbjj says, beat it hard with boost and fuel mods and the temp will rise.
Even slightly blocked radiator (air side) will result it the temps rising slightly @ 100k, but go off road and with the lower speeds and same load they will get hot, fast. i run a rotation system with radiators (have 2 spare soaking in the kiddies paddling pool while the 3rd is installed. Mine on the last EGT and boost test up the Bombay Hill got to a little over half on the gauge. Off road after the third or fourth attempt at the hazard it will get quite hot quite fast.
I'm getting a triple row radiator to solve this problem.
Sounds like the conditions just got to it, that's probably all.
As said, a TD27 has to heat seize before any damage, cooked mine plenty of times with no bad consequences.
You don't need to spend heaps to make it better. Come winter and it won't get hot enough
Keep us up dated.
Cheers,

wax wrote:Come on your in Christchurch it should be cold there. Ha ha

What are you on about?

sibainmud wrote:Lots of questions and answers.
Do you still have the shroud on the radiator? (this make a big difference when in the conditions you describe).

Only the top half of the shroud Simon, had to remove the bottom half when I did the body lift.

I will update as I go along.

zephyrheaven wrote:

kiwipete wrote:

zephyrheaven wrote:Kaiapoi Radiators - Steve is a realist

Thanks, but a tad too far to travel on the scooter.

you wont be able to afford a scooter after dealing with A1

he means the scooter wont cook itself if its colder.

zephyrheaven wrote:you wont be able to afford a scooter after dealing with A1

are they that bad? i havn't delt terribly much with them, and have gone off what numerous people have said about them.

When you get the radiator internally cleaned, you should also check out the price of installing a new top tank. (They've got to take it off anyways) I got my rad checked out by the Hornby radiator place about 4 years ago when I cracked the head on my 1KZ. Being plastic tanks the top one is more affected by heat and can crack with the rad pressure over time.

I also use Redline Water Wetter. You get it from BNT, it helps raise the heat transfer rate, making your radiator more effective.

IcedJohnno wrote:When you get the radiator internally cleaned, you should also check out the price of installing a new top tank. (They've got to take it off anyways) I got my rad checked out by the Hornby radiator place about 4 years ago when I cracked the head on my 1KZ. Being plastic tanks the top one is more affected by heat and can crack with the rad pressure over time.

That is assuming he has a ali/plastic radiator.
Ditched those in mine long ago and perfer to run the older copper core and tanked ones. No brittle aluminum tags but good old fashioned copper and solder.
Cheers,

kiwipete wrote:

wax wrote:Come on your in Christchurch it should be cold there. Ha ha

What are you on about?

I thought it would be cold there

Pete just thinking ( yeah that's a worry ) with your new bull bars, winch, driving lights, air con condenser, ? trans cooler ?, and thirty other things ?????? ----- how much air can you get through your poor radiator, be a bit like you running five k's in your peek condition,

YOU WOULD STEAM,
,

FITZY.

Hi Pete, have had a couple of radiators done with Canterbury radiators on Tuam st, great service (same day with a recore on the cruiser rad)
cheers Doc

a1 is good go in and see nick the bald guy. they know there stuff. they could build you a new core for you with wider fin pitch, lets mud and crap flow thru it and doesnt block it as easy as a closer fin pitch. when i was working there i built myself a new core with a wide fin pitch and never had mud clogging issues

SMOKEY wrote:Pete just thinking ( yeah that's a worry ) with your new bull bars, winch, driving lights, air con condenser, ? trans cooler ?, and thirty other things ?????? ----- how much air can you get through your poor radiator, be a bit like you running five k's in your peek condition,

YOU WOULD STEAM,
,

FITZY.

Funny that, I was just thinking the same thing when I was flushing the radiator tonight, there is shit loads in front of it really.

Thanks for the heads up about A1 and Canterbury Radiators fellas. Will take it in in a coupla weeks for a check over.
Have just done a garden hos flush and topped up with new coolant, 45 mins run across town and back and no issues, fluid level and temp all ok for now.

Just noticed a nice green puddle under the old girl as i was leaving the yard at work, have to get new rubber washer for the drain bung me thinks.

edit, checked it out and it's the seal at the back of the water pump. Will put a new one in next week, got a price of $218 inc for one with viscus clutch on it as well.

Canterbury Radiators are $78 + GST for a full clean of the core, remove top and bottom tanks as well.

you wont be able to afford a scooter after dealing with A1

What ya's on about Nick has just internally sealed and under sealed the outside of my slightly modified 60's diesel tank. I have no complaints about the price (box of beer ) and he has done an outstanding job. Absolutley stoked. Think I'll mosy over to the "Good bastards" thread......................

Update time.

I have finally gotten around to stripping out the radiator, water pump, hoses and thermostat.

$198.00 inc GST for water pump with viscus unit and gasket plus a tappet cover gasket.
$78 +GST for radiator clean, it was 30% blocked.
Still to purchase is radiator hoses, thermostat and new radiator cap.

Gawd knows what else I will find while I'm at it.

Does anyone know how to lock the power steering pulley so I can undo the nut? I want to flip the pulley to see if it is reversible so I can swap the belts around so I can add an extra air con pump for an air compressor?

kiwipete wrote:Does anyone know how to lock the power steering pulley so I can undo the nut? I want to flip the pulley to see if it is reversible so I can swap the belts around so I can add an extra air con pump for an air compressor?

Use a rattle gun, or smack a power bar with a soft face hammer

kbjj wrote:

kiwipete wrote:Does anyone know how to lock the power steering pulley so I can undo the nut? I want to flip the pulley to see if it is reversible so I can swap the belts around so I can add an extra air con pump for an air compressor?

Use a rattle gun, or smack a power bar with a soft face hammer

Yes this I know, but I need to hold the pulley to stop it rotating?

When using a rattle gun, you only need to hold the pulley with your hand, the beauty of a rattle gun, it uses impact not torque . Use a leather glove if your skin is delicate like mine I undid my front crankshaft bolt with a powerbar and hammer, although it does have alot more mass to hit against.
Tighten pump belt, put on powerbar, and smack it. I'll be bloody surprised if it doesn't undo.
I understand what your trying to achieve, it may work, but not ideal. You'll see, I just had a look at my spare

another way to undo ya pulley is use ya starter motor, put the power bar on so its hard up against something solid and crank ya starter motor which will undo the nut as the power bar wont move

Rattle gun does it easy as, and also as Hamish said, just give the key a flick until it cracks it loose, easy as.

Thanks guys.

another way is to but a fanbelt on the pulley and then fold it back on itself causing it to jam really best to show you with a picture but i don't have a shed here to show you what i mean

Hoses and thermostat purchased, minus another $170.00

Is your radiator plastic tanked?

IcedJohnno wrote:Is your radiator plastic tanked?

Yes

mercutio wrote:another way is to but a fanbelt on the pulley and then fold it back on itself causing it to jam really best to show you with a picture but i don't have a shed here to show you what i mean

These are good

http://76.my/Malaysia/power-bar-hand-im ... 77@112.jpg

Can borrow mine if you want

kiwipete wrote:

IcedJohnno wrote:Is your radiator plastic tanked?

Yes

As you've boiled it I suggest you replace the top tank then. Cheap insurance.

Oh come to think of it I did boil mine recently....
Buggar, time for me to get a new top tank again too....

IcedJohnno wrote:

kiwipete wrote:

IcedJohnno wrote:Is your radiator plastic tanked?

Yes

As you've boiled it I suggest you replace the top tank then. Cheap insurance.

Oh come to think of it I did boil mine recently....
Buggar, time for me to get a new top tank again too....

It's all been checked out thanks.