Offroad-Express

Posted: **Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:30 pm**

fullthrottle wrote:
Just for a quick check, try the following.

--Camber--
While sitting on a nice level surface, put a level on the front wheels to test the camber. The best way I've found is to have a straight-edge long enough so it rests against the steel/alloy rim and allows you to put a level against it without touching the tyre. This will at least show you how much your camber is out.

--Toe in and out--
It's not the most accurate, but while sitting on a level surface and with the wheels straight, I try and measure from the outside edge of one tyre, to the same position on the outside edge of the other tyre. Then repeat this 180 degress / opposite side of the tyre. This will just show if the front or back edge is toeing in or out.

Gives you some idea anyway, and fixed mine up.

Camber is not so critical to get it driving average, as long as it's not obviously out.
I just use line-of-site to set the toe at home...just sight down the outside of front wheel so it lines up with the outside of the rear on both sides....at the same time of course...

Posted: **Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:32 pm**

Interesting.
See in the 2WD install, they have the cross-rod inserted from the bottom and inner tie-rod inserted through the front of the cross-rod and not the back.
Opposite to what you have done.

Just trying to work out if flipping the idler and pitman is possible with clearance etc. Will have another look in the morning.

Posted: **Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:36 pm**

No, it can't be done. The pitman has a small taper to it where it fits on to the box, and the idler would be way too high, and probably hit the chassis. What problem are you having? Mine has enough travel to bind the cv's at full extension, but the tre's are still ok...

Posted: **Thu Oct 25, 2012 9:06 pm**

OK.
So my problem is grovling around in the driveway in the dark with a floodlight probably doesn't help.

the cross-rod looks extremely close to the sump and the inner tie-rod ball joint clips the chassis. I'm looking at the idler arm and even though it has the brace, it looks like what I did on Saturday not only bent the tie-rod, but also the idler arm slightly....

Check it out the upward force from this...

Posted: **Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:02 am**

Yep, it looks bent orrite....I reckon we need to reinforce it like mine...you rough bugger!

Posted: **Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:39 am**

atleast ya could drive home on it, i managed to bend the idler arm, snap a tie rod and bend the other one.

was all fun and games till i realised i had to leave my truck parked at an island in the middle of the river overnight........

Posted: **Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:35 am**

She wasn't driveable.....

Surprisingly, I managed to get the tie-rod out and using those big new indestructable bars on the front of the truck, beat the living crap out of it to straighten it again. Worked a treat.

Next time I'll take the vice mounted to some box tube that is inserted in the hayman reece hitch.

Posted: **Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:37 am**

Just a note...this shows the weak point of the terrano steering setup. Our one's (I'm not sure about lhd) use the idler to hold the centerlink from rotating. The pitman end is free pivoting, so does nothing. So on the left side the lever arm is from the pitman shaft to the inner tre....which is quite a good length...it's no real surprise that they bend...

Posted: **Fri Oct 26, 2012 10:49 am**

slide wrote:Do you know what specs (toe, camber, etc) yours is set at?

I would run 1mm total toe in max with the 2wd setup and try to set the camber as near to 0 as poss, maybe slightly negative (up to .5 deg) on the left if you're worried about tyre wear on the road. Keep an eye on the tyres though, this setting is taken from what mine does with the lift, but it should be pretty good on any one with the 2wd link.
If you drive 'er hard you can run up to 1 deg negative on both sides, it will accelerate tyre wear and make it wander a little more, but makes it handle lots better.

Posted: **Fri Oct 26, 2012 12:00 pm**

I have the factory specs if it helps...

Posted: **Sat Oct 27, 2012 8:35 pm**

fullthrottle wrote:I have the factory specs if it helps...

I only ever use the stock specs as a guideline on anything modified...and even some standard cars specs are wrong...

Posted: **Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:54 pm**

DEATH_INC wrote:Just a note...this shows the weak point of the terrano steering setup. Our one's (I'm not sure about lhd) use the idler to hold the centerlink from rotating. The pitman end is free pivoting, so does nothing. So on the left side the lever arm is from the pitman shaft to the inner tre....which is quite a good length...it's no real surprise that they bend...

That there is the best info in this whole thread :!:

apart from the factory settings.
Fix one weak point and you expose another. These things aren't bullet proof, you must drive with some caution.
It's all about pointing the steering in right direction to nurse it from excess loading :wink:

Carry spares for the left and the right tie rods and then you will never be caught out.
BTW nice work fullthrottle

Cheers,

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:39 am**

or just do what me and passengerpete have done and swap the entire front end for safari stuff. lol

problem solved

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 10:54 am**

I have a steering box on the lhs side of mine. makes for a very strong idler arm.
The 2wd conversion is holding up well.

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:03 am**

Cos I'm a lazy sod and can't be knackered searching the forums, and I want to finish my 2WD conversion, where did you all source your 2WD and 4WD tie rods for this? I have the center link and adjusters, just never got around to getting the rest.
This is one project i want to cross off the list. (before the next starts............and it'll be a biggie too, but this is for another thread

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 1:05 pm**

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 2:58 pm**

kiwipete wrote:Cos I'm a lazy sod and can't be knackered searching the forums, and I want to finish my 2WD conversion, where did you all source your 2WD and 4WD tie rods for this?

B'nT/Autolign. Make sure they find you 555 one's. You'll have to ask specifically as they are going away from the 555 brand and getting the crappy camelot stuff. You only need the 2wd inners, you can use the l/h thread 4wd one's and adjusters you have already.

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 5:04 pm**

OK, all sorted now.
Turned out I had done some real damage to the steering. Idler arm was bent up by about 15mm.

So it is all in now and I'm just playing with the 'eye alignment' now.

I used a 2WD center-link.
4WD outer tie-rods, (16mm, left hand threads)
2WD inner Tierods (18mm, right hand threads)
Existing adjusters and nuts, and just had the right hand threads of the adjusters and nuts tapped out to 18mm x 1.5mm to match the 2WD tie-rods. (Thanks DEATH_INC)

The center-link does run fairly close to the chassis, but seems to clear it ok.
If that idler arm gets bent again, will look at the steering box replacement for that side.

Cheers guys for all your help. Now to try the same spot where I broke it last time and see how it holds up :-)

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 7:32 pm**

fullthrottle wrote:OK, all sorted now.
Turned out I had done some real damage to the steering. Idler arm was bent up by about 15mm.

So it is all in now and I'm just playing with the 'eye alignment' now.

I used a 2WD center-link.
4WD outer tie-rods, (16mm, left hand threads)
2WD inner Tierods (18mm, right hand threads)
Existing adjusters and nuts, and just had the right hand threads of the adjusters and nuts tapped out to 18mm x 1.5mm to match the 2WD tie-rods. (Thanks DEATH_INC)

The center-link does run fairly close to the chassis, but seems to clear it ok.
If that idler arm gets bent again, will look at the steering box replacement for that side.

Did ya get a camelot idler again? Did it bend the arm or the shaft? I may have a plan....

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 8:56 pm**

DEATH_INC wrote:Did ya get a camelot idler again? Did it bend the arm or the shaft? I may have a plan....

The brand is Transteering. Its got a 2year and 40,000km warranty with it.

Wonder it that covers bending them :evil:

It was just the arm itself that bent. The shaft was still nice and straight.
I've kept the old body and shaft.

Posted: **Sun Oct 28, 2012 9:19 pm**

See the gusset on my idler in the pic of it a couple of pages back? That'll stop it bending....but I'd need your arm...and you'd have to have a cruisy wof guy....
I have a new camelot one kicking around but it's probably different to yours....

Posted: **Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:58 am**

Can anyone let me know a total cost of the parts needed for this? And does it need to be certed?

Posted: **Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:09 am**

cowman wrote:Can anyone let me know a total cost of the parts needed for this? And does it need to be certed?

No it doesn't need to be certified. So my WOF guy, who is also an ex Terrano owner tells me. The rule seems to be, if it’s a Nissan part purchased off the shelf with no after market modifications to the overall manufacturers design, then you are ok.

I bought all mine from Autolign: (Plus GST)
$119.33 for the centre-link

$33.39 each for the 2WD right-hand thread tie-rods

$23.30 each for the 4WD left-hand thread tie-rods (You might be able to use your existing here, I replaced mine because the rubber boots were stuffed, plus I bent one)

$Beer for a mate to tap out the adjusters

Posted: **Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:19 am**

The parts you need are BnT/Autolign part # TR680 (centerlink) rrp $170+gst X1 and TE673r (tie rod ends) rrp $ 47+gst each X 2.

Then you need to find a friendly local engineer to tap out the 2 adjuster sleeves and 2 locknuts to 18mm.

And if you need it you can get an awesome black idler brace :mrgreen:

for $89 off trademe, or a blue Calmini one from 4WD bits for $134.74 to complete the setup.

Our wof guy says no cert, as they are just 'bolt on' parts.
edit: I really wish this website would let non-paying members have a location in the bit on the side of your posts...

Where are you based?

Posted: **Thu Nov 01, 2012 4:58 pm**

That doesnt sound to bad at all, compared to the cost of tie rod replacements and the piece of mind you get as well.

cheers but I bought a snake racing idler brace from another forum member here a while back.

might have to start accumulating some pieces

edit: im from taumarunui - central north is

Posted: **Thu Nov 01, 2012 5:35 pm**

DEATH_INC wrote: edit: I really wish this website would let non-paying members have a location in the bit on the side of your posts...

Where are you based?

Click on messages at the top of the screen, then click on your profile and edit your data.

Posted: **Tue Nov 13, 2012 8:07 pm**

whats the verdict on this setup? has anyone given it a good testing and if so how did it hold up? compared to orginal...its time for my steering setup to go under the knife

Posted: **Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:49 pm**

I've got this set up with the calmini idler brace and to date its been trouble free but its only done a couple of miner trips. will be selling off my steering after xmass

Posted: **Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:21 am**

any point in putting this in a truck at standard height? no lift, 31" tyres?

Posted: **Wed Nov 14, 2012 11:44 am**

31" are enough to bend the standard steering components cowman, i done this when i installed my 31s even before i wound up suspension...But obviously biggest problem is once torsions are wound up the angle of the arms...Hence i need to do something...Anyway point of reply whether my truck was standard or modifyed the standard steerings crap once it gets in the rough so anythings got to be worth doing

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