Offroad-Express

For thr rear get tom to make ya a drop bracket for the rear panhard.. it wont toasted as the axle is forward so you can drop the top mount to fix the rear.. as for the front.. need a pic.. It's what I would do .. but w/e really...

not going to get into who said what but pics are clear.chassis mount for panhard needs to be dropped .panard rod length needs to be corrected (you say its been welded,that's why diff sits so far to 1 side as the person who lengthened it got it wrong).once you've done these 2 things road manners will greatly improve

as for cert,didn't read if this has been covered and it sucks that vehicle is no longer in same city as original certifier but...if this vehicle is certed and you correct it the cert will need to be redone unfortunately at your cost as its been 'modified' from cert condition (weather it should have passed or not)

hope that helps

i had similar issues with my truck after lifting and before i modified things to within correct spec

mumbls wrote:on a side - the rear wheel track may run 20-40mm to the left of the front wheel track, could be an optical illusion but a few people have notice, when lining up the wheels.

IMO this would be correct if your panhard was running out of radius it would start pulling your diff sideways as the arc sharpens. Especially if the length of bar was never changed.

Im guessing a watts linkage is no use on a 4wd truck? 2 chassis mounts & central pivot in the back of the diff head, that would half your radius and improve road handling very marginally but what would it do to articulation? Or go body mounted v8 race car style watts . Im guessing everyone just does panhard for a reason.

Can your shocks be adjusted? Firm them up?

lownslow wrote:Im guessing a watts linkage is no use on a 4wd truck?

You guessed wrong. Take a look at the rear axle on a Landrover Discovery