Offroad-Express

you reckon do ya lilpig. i would be more concerned with the change in orbital oscillation of the centre enclave housing. then again, that depends i guess on exactly how far the SOA takes the draglink past the 32 deg play from the front right balljoint........ turoa, what say you, youre da man on these?

xj wrote:you reckon do ya lilpig. i would be more concerned with the change in orbital oscillation of the centre enclave housing. then again, that depends i guess on exactly how far the SOA takes the draglink past the 32 deg play from the front right balljoint........ turoa, what say you, youre da man on these?

Well It would depend on the squat and anti squat numbers. I would be taking the rotation of the centre line of the spring into the equasion. There are quite a few calculators on the net on how to get these numbers.

Also you need to note if the housing is eliptical.

xj wrote:you reckon do ya lilpig. i would be more concerned with the change in orbital oscillation of the centre enclave housing. then again, that depends i guess on exactly how far the SOA takes the draglink past the 32 deg play from the front right balljoint........ turoa, what say you, youre da man on these?

not even au, man aint walked on moon before the series IIA came out so no Orbital factor could be applied. Must of been an Area 54 special

the squat/anti-squat numbers ought not to matter if youve correctly calibrated the ring sequence. If that hasnt been done right though, then from what i can recall, if the anti squat is more than 12 points higher than the squat number, then the "howard formula" needs to be utilised

xj wrote:the squat/anti-squat numbers ought not to matter if youve correctly calibrated the ring sequence. If that hasnt been done right though, then from what i can recall, if the anti squat is more than 12 points higher than the squat number, then the "howard formula" needs to be utilised

are you taking into effect the akerman principle?

yes indeed, and the modified "ackerman/longstaff theory"... but hell man, its been years, ive forgotten more than what i ever learned

turoa wrote:

xj wrote:the squat/anti-squat numbers ought not to matter if youve correctly calibrated the ring sequence. If that hasnt been done right though, then from what i can recall, if the anti squat is more than 12 points higher than the squat number, then the "howard formula" needs to be utilised

are you taking into effect the akerman principle?

dont forget to add the chucknorisflexsteering rules to make it all work together with the dual triangulated 4link SOA U-Bolt balljoint flip.

ok the reason why I need to make the triangle bracket things is because the drive shaft is binding and making it just about impossible to push by human hand.
and the drive shaft is to short wouldn't reach where is use to be so im going to make a squear one like some one els did on here?? looked like it would work alright.

The front is going to be lifted aswell,

soon the motor will be running again,
im going to drain the deisel oil and all the sh*t and refill it.

Im off into town will be back later.


Seeya

86-surf wrote:triangle bracket things

diff wedges? just a stab in the dark...

86-surf wrote:
Im off into town will be back later.

awesome.....

You don't need to use u bolts now either if you are moving it around a lot making up spring perches for the top of the diff (you have to anyway looks like something was done) and getting new leaf pack bolts to flip them (may as well) then you could also mount (weld) a flat plate under the diff and put straight bolts through it (just in the mean time) and the original flat plate that went on the U bolts at the top while you move it around.

I wouldn't use this as a permanant soloution without a bit of strengthening hope you get the idea pretty much like a sandwich plate diff spring plate and 4 bolts through top and bottom plates.

you will have a bit of fun but hey set it up get it running and get out there find what is and isn't working and look for some answers, 4wd suspension is a lot more involved than your car so you will learn a lot.

I would suggest you still need to drop some projects tho, having too many you may not get any done well, I was going that way and ended up spending the cash getting someone else to finish a couple so i could get rid of them.

I wouldnt have bothered with the rope, he's only moving it around the yard, blu tack would've been good enough.

I'm off to town now.....

Yee haa yer shure yer ain't got sum hillbilly in yer...yer mit be related to yer cousins down them there in hillbilly country

MATT4U wrote:
dont forget to add the chucknorisflexsteering rules to make it all work together with the dual triangulated 4link SOA U-Bolt balljoint flip.

you are so right matt you have to use the chucknorisflexsteering rules, if you dont you will have a hell of a time trying to move that POS

What size tyres are you going to run on it ? are you going to move the front axle forward ? are you going to fit power steering?

dont worry about what steeve t647 said just weld the plates to the top plate and they will be sweet as just as long as you use liguid nails on the plate before you weld it just for extra holding power

but dont worry mate all you need is enough of that string you have been using and heaps of sticky tape and dont forget about the chucknorisflexsteering rules

Wow Chopper! You didn't even mention the angle grinder once

rokhound wrote:Wow Chopper! You didn't even mention the angle grinder once

you only need a angle grinder for a hilux cause if you hit a landy hard enough they just fall apart

So hows the spring over axle going jase

I was looking through some books the other day and decovered the section that matt was talking about with the chucknorisflexsteering rules

For the chucknorisflexsteering rules to work properly you need to use this equation . you need to find out the size of your wheels you are going to want to run then devide the circumference of the wheel by the number of wheel nuts you have then times that figure by the power of ten.

once you have done that you have to take into account the earths gravitational pull to set the correct caster angles up. To do this you need to measure the thickness of your bushes then times that with the deninsety of the steel. Once you have got that number you measure from the front of your original spring hanger then weld a bracket to it this is where the ideal location of your rear hangers should start.

Then all you need to do is just a little bit of welding to join the holes together but if you do it like this you will have the correct chucknorisflexsteering rules ond that will mean your POS will drive down the road straight


cheers Chopper

thats the one chopper, I couldn't be bothered writing it all down