fj45 rat rod (ish)

[oldyella]

You have already cut the 3" out of it so would probably be easier just to finish up the rust work?

Won't have to be too fussy, that bit won't be seen as the roof will be on top.

Then it will be onto the front windscreen?

[Heath]

Yeah, I know but I want to do this right. I guess I'll give it a crack and if I cock it up then I'l find a new one to butcher. If I do get another this one wont be wasted as I have an idea for a soft top and need the belt upper mounts.

And yes the screen is on the to do list. Got to bung the roof on first to get the height sorted, but it will be soon (have to summon the courage).

The roof has the usual bad rust around the gutters but its a couple of curves so I will have to decide if I do it or pay to have it fixed. At the moment I admit to being afraid to mess with it but by the time I get to this bit I might just give it a go.

[tomsoffroad]

At the moment I admit to being afraid to mess with it but by the time I get to this bit I might just give it a go

Doesn't sound like you make it much worse Just cut all the rust out, then......... you'll have to fix it
*cough cough another 3 inches cough*

[Heath]

At the moment I admit to being afraid to mess with it but by the time I get to this bit I might just give it a go

Doesn't sound like you make it much worse Just cut all the rust out, then......... you'll have to fix it
*cough cough another 3 inches cough*

I could take a smidge out of the top inches and half above the windows. I'd only be removing the rusty bit I guess...

The middle bit was a bitch to cut and do so I'm not keen to give it another go.

[oldyella]

Yea I wondered about just wacking a little off the entire top. It looks like just a flat bit so would be reasonable easy to do? To small curved bits, then a straight bit to join it all back up.

[Heath]

Yea I wondered about just wacking a little off the entire top. It looks like just a flat bit so would be reasonable easy to do? To small curved bits, then a straight bit to join it all back up.

Had a looksee tonight and decided it would make the windows too high up (and mess with the seat belt upper mount), so 3 inches is all it will get for now. I'll have a look at the base later and see if I can sneak it a little higher, but its twin skinned at the base so maybe not...

[Heath]

A little rust in the passenger side cab upper.


Rust gone. Still have a little tidying up to do (smooth the edges and fill a little hole I found (tac weld will fill it - when I do the other side).

[Heath]

Drivers side cab upper rust.


Done. Forgot to do the captive nuts before I started welding the repair into place. It made things a little tricky but I wont make that mistake again.

[oldyella]

Is that a little more rust where the corner window is installed?

Looking nice and tidy though

[Heath]

Is that a little more rust where the corner window is installed?

Looking nice and tidy though

Yep, just a little but not structural so it wont get quite the same treatment.

Actually it probably will be as I'm using this as practice before I do the bottom edge. Complex curves do my head in but nothing a couple of hammers and a block of wood cant sort.

I look at what I had done in the beginning and consider redoing it, as I think I am capable of better now (not much better, but better).

[derk]

I look at what I had done in the beginning and consider redoing it, as I think I am capable of better now (not much better, but better).

That's the problem mate as your fabrication skills improve you start looking back at the earlier stuff you did and it all starts looking rough and needing re-doing

do all the shit you wont see first then you wont be as tempted to go back and re-do it

[Heath]

Okay got a little done tonight. Sorry to be a thread junkie, but I figure I'd share and if peeps arent interested they wont look.


Fixed the window frame (still need to grind a bit I missed but it will do)




Pics of the rusty base I have to deal with now. I'll be removing quite a bit of steel here (including where I welded the two halves together) to get back to some good stuff. Going to break it into bits and tackle it slowly (Just like eating an elephant - one small bite at a time), that way it wont be too daunting - hopefully.

Then its onto shortening the screen...actually I should get the cab mounted on the chassis first and then tinker with the screen (and then the doors).

Next problem to solve (on the big list of problems) is to source some replacement rubbers for the glass (and seats and...)

Anyone out there with an early model 70 series (early 80's) able to take a few pics of the seats and measure the mounting points for me? Maybe the 70 series seats will be similar to the high back series seats and fit or maybe not.

[Heath]

Needed to fold up some steel panels for the rust I am cutting out so I made up a folder out of bits int he garage and a ball pein hammer.



Its not perfect (cant get a 90 degree bend but it's close enough).

[rokhound]

A couple of bits of heavyish angle in the vice works in a pinch as well.

[tomsoffroad]

If your bending panel that way then buy yourself a dead blow hammer, they don't mark the panel like a steel hammer

[De-Ranged]

A couple of bits of heavyish angle in the vice works in a pinch as well.

Thats what I used for yrs, still do when its too complex to fit into the bender

[Heath]

If your bending panel that way then buy yourself a dead blow hammer, they don't mark the panel like a steel hammer

Cheers, for the tip . I think I have one somewhere. I'll use it next time.

[Heath]

Started the weekend with this.


Did one side so I could keep the levels right.


Then did the otherside (and rewelded the first side - didnt like it, could see the join when ground down).


My welding is improving (this is with my crappy Repco welder and CO2).


Good penetration right through, but a little light in a couple of places which I will redo (better safe than sorry).


Just the inner bracing and this centre bits done and I have to hit the corners (not looking forwards to them - don't like curves much).

[ChurchurDan]

A shrinker stretcher would make making the corners easier. they can be had for around $300 on trademe.

[Heath]

A shrinker stretcher would make making the corners easier. they can be had for around $300 on trademe.

To rich for me. That's a pile of parts or steel or gas that I need more than a flash tool (yes I know I actually said that...must be late or welding fumes).

Lots of small cuts and careful work with a panel beaters dolly gets a similar result (well similarish).

[Heath]

Centre is done and I've moved on to the passenger side corner.


This curved bit is a pain in the ass. Grinder wandered a little when I started cutting, but it will work okay.

Will fold the base up when I have tacked it into place. The flange fold at the inner edge is a bit rough but will be fine when I finish it up with some "hammer time".

[rokhound]

Put masking tape on the panel first before cutting it to give you a line to cut too. It may or may not help.

[tomsoffroad]

Put masking tape on the panel first before cutting it to give you a line to cut too. It may or may not help.

Also a really good way to minimise paint damage when cutting holes with a 1mm disk, ie; snorkel holes, probably irrelevant on this build but useless info anyways

[Heath]

Put masking tape on the panel first before cutting it to give you a line to cut too. It may or may not help.

LOL - I may beyond help but that sounds like a bloody good idea. I just keep on learning .

[Heath]

These sides are a bitch. The whole door frame outer of the panel was buggered so I ended up cutting it out and replacing it too.


Getting there slowly.


Door frame edge (bad pic sorry)

[Heath]

Fiddly and lots of work. Not the best method and I'll do the other side differently (in two pieces - Side and bottom). Good practice though and a way to learn what works and what doesnt.


Finished result isnt too bad but too much work to get to this point and waste of gas.


Gap isnt consistant so I'll have to address that (may be the lower part out of line - straight edge will confirm my thoughts - when I find it in the shed).

[oldyella]

Rust repairs use a heap of gas as your always on and off the trigger. What size wire are you running? I normally run 0.9mm but found dropping down to the smaller wire 0.6mm, meant you could weld for longer without stopping

[Heath]

.8mm (have some .6mm I was going to swap to but I am too lazy as this size is working now (I'm learning to use it properly) and using a larger stand off to change the voltage to the weld as the settings are pretty crude. By doing this I can drop metal on the thins stuff too.

[Heath]

Much better than the first effort.


little rust here to sort too


Much better fit this side (so far).

[De-Ranged]

Much better fit this side (so far).

Its the bonus of practice lol

A wee tip for your gas usage when welding sheet metal... I wind my gas flow down to 4L/min, with the pre-flow of gas this gives you enough gas to shield a spot weld on panel... most of your gas flow is there because when you run a bead the heat causes it to be blown away.
Weld a test piece winding the gas back, then grind the welds to look for porosity and step up the flow a bit from there

Just for the books this isn't the way the books tell you lol