They are American Speedlight copies. They do genuine American Speedlights also, but they said the Chinese knock-offs are more reliable...
I'll post a pic when I have uploaded one the right size to Photobucket. Unless I'm missing something I can't resize an upload from the iPad.
Edit: Here it is. It's getting an ARB rear bar this week, so eventually it will have a matching spare and the plate is now in the middle of the spare as it's a bit long to go in the US plate position. The lights are level, but the combination of plate one side and hinges on the other make them look off in the picture
Yesterday
Last edited by Fen on Mon May 28, 2012 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Oh, the bowless... I really like the look, but I'm a bit concerned it doesn't fit too well at the front of the door surrounds. There's a notch where I assume the header for the factory top sits between the channel that the side tucks into and the wind screen that this top (the Rugged Ridge one) doesn't cover well.
I only noticed as it was getting dark yesterday so I haven't investigated much yet and I have no pics. It wasn't overly wind noisy on a quick trip into town so maybe there isn't a gap all the way through.
I think I'll get a cross brace welded in at the back of the cage between the rear hoops so I can ditch the bar that is part of the top, that way I could hopefully completely remove it and carry it with me, although there isn't a lot of space for the roof and door tops, never mind the door bottoms, but I love running door less when the weather permits.
Fen wrote:Oh, the bowless... I really like the look, but I'm a bit concerned it doesn't fit too well at the front of the door surrounds. There's a notch where I assume the header for the factory top sits between the channel that the side tucks into and the wind screen that this top (the Rugged Ridge one) doesn't cover well.
I only noticed as it was getting dark yesterday so I haven't investigated much yet and I have no pics. It wasn't overly wind noisy on a quick trip into town so maybe there isn't a gap all the way through.
I think I'll get a cross brace welded in at the back of the cage between the rear hoops so I can ditch the bar that is part of the top, that way I could hopefully completely remove it and carry it with me, although there isn't a lot of space for the roof and door tops, never mind the door bottoms, but I love running door less when the weather permits.
looks good mate, love the lights, might look into that, would rather have square ones tho I think,here's a pic of mine I know what you meen about the top fitting Mine is from softopper.com in the states, to tension up the roof, fold some foam rubber ( like the bed roll matts, about 5mm thick) cut about 150mm wide and long enough to fit in the top channel of door surround, then stretch roof over and clip into door channel. This puts enough tension on it to stop water pooling when it rains and dripping into cabin when you open the door. Should catch up some time , I'm in Ashhurst, work in Pahiatua
cheers Greg
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
You can flush your stock lights - Yeti's Barbie has them done like that.
The Rugged Ridge top has some foam pieces in pockets that sit along the top of the door to help water pooling. It hasn't sat out in the rain yet to know if it works or not. I believe the Rampage (previously Viking) has some bars that run from the roll hoop to the screen for the same reason, but they use foam also, although it think it's officially to stop flapping with an open window.
I hadn't seen the Softopper one before, although I had heard of it. It looks identical to mine. Is there a bar across the top of the rear screen? I've never really liked the Rampage because of the way it sags across the top of the back window with no support bar, but I'm not mad keen on the loose bar that just sits in place on the RR one now I have it.
Your Jeep looks good. Very similar to mine apart from the colours in fact. I saw from one of your other posts we have the same driveshaft too, so maybe similar underneath as well. Mine has a pretty old OME lift, and I wouldn't be surprised if the ARB rear causes a bit of sagging so I'm thinking I'll import a kit with adjustable control arms and maybe go a bit taller, but I'll take it out a few times before I decide finally. It was pretty capable for the previous owner so it probably doesn't need any more lift.
Oh, meeting up - definitely. I work in Welly and most of the times I've been out in my old (stock) TJ or XJ has been down there, but you Manawatu guys are probably closer to me, certainly than the south coast.
Yeah my top has a flat aluminium bar inserted into a pocket over the rear window, keeps it all in place real nice. I looked at the Rampage one but wasn't sold on them , they looked a bit loose fitting, then stumbled across the Softopper ones so went for that instead, landed at door for $1089. My TJ had a 2 inch OME lift, I have just replaced shocks with Raw 4X4 ones, still have OME springs at this stage. No plans to go any higher with lift , have dropped out rear sway bar and am more than happy with where it's able to go. Am running 33s which helps a bit , next plan is for a tummy tuck (TJ not me ). Look forward to catching up then, I'm trying to get access to a property in Pahiatua to set up Manawatu Club Champs on the 28th and 29th of July, txt 0272560470 if you are coming up this way , can do a trip up Takapari Road (easy but still good ) or River Run ( plenty to explore between Ashhurst and Saddle Road Bridge)
Last edited by WRNGLR on Mon May 28, 2012 10:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
Fen wrote:It's getting an ARB rear bar this week, so eventually it will have a matching spare and the plate is now in the middle of the spare as it's a bit long to go in the US plate position.
I have ARB rear bar, very solidly built and saved me from damage a few times. I have the plate on flat swing arm part of the bar like this:
Forgot to add, bar caused rear OME springs to sag very quickly. I changed over to Currie Enterprises progressive springs. Bar is heavy to say the least, but great departure angle.
Are you doing a tummy tuck homemade style or have something else in mind. I want to do one from http://www.rokmen.com. I have their gas tank skid, solid work.
TJ wrote:Forgot to add, bar caused rear OME springs to sag very quickly. I changed over to Currie Enterprises progressive springs. Bar is heavy to say the least, but great departure angle.
Are you doing a tummy tuck homemade style or have something else in mind. I want to do one from http://www.rokmen.com. I have their control arms and gas tank skid, solid work.
Tummy Tuck will be a home one , Already have the pan but need to modify as it was off an auto so trans mounts are in the wrong place, no rush to get it done , just when money allows I do a bit here and there.
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
I hear good stuff all round about the ARB rear bar's strength.
Originally I was going to get their new design, which looks a bit more like their JK bar - with a stepped section below the tailgate. There isn't anywhere to mount the plate on that design, so when I realised it wouldn't fit where the US ones go I planned it in the middle of the wheel.
Now it turns out I'm getting a bit of a deal on a bar like yours that is already in NZ (though the tyre carrier won't be here for 3 or 4 more weeks), so I have the option of putting the plate down there. I'll see how I feel when I have it fitted, but I quite like the wheel position and the mount it is on has an LED brake light so I don't need to retain the factory high level light.
I have full Rokmen underbody armour in my wish list with them, just debating when to spend the money - gas tank skid, tummy tuck t-case and engine / transmission. I'm also looking at the Currie Johnny Joint control arm kit, or even their full 4" kit with Antirock (though the front ARB bracket needs to be trimmed to fit it I believe).
I don't know what rocker guards I have - maybe even home brew - but they are solid. My tank skid is all beaten to Hell and I saw the bit on your build thread about your Rockmen which looks the business.
I've got the same Toyota shaft as Greg, done by the chap in the Hutt, which hopefully will work with a 4" lift. Definitely no vibes or binding even before the MML on the current lift.
Keen to get involved in a trip Greg, once I have given it a bit of a shakedown and got a bit used to it.
Fen wrote:I've got the same Toyota shaft as Greg, done by the chap in the Hutt, which hopefully will work with a 4" lift. Definitely no vibes or binding even before the MML on the current lift.
Keen to get involved in a trip Greg, once I have given it a bit of a shakedown and got a bit used to it.
That'll be Brian Howatt in the Hutt, and I'd imagine you'd be safe with a 4" lift like it is, mine at full stretch still has heaps left in it.
Only way to get used to it is drive it aye , hope all goes well for ya and like I said look forward to catching up
cheers Greg
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
Missed the link to your pictures before somehow. Some good shots in there. Videos didn't want to play on iPad for some reason so I'll check them out on the Mac later.
ARB bar didn't happen this week because the tyre carrier isn't here yet and it's a major to fit it without and then add it after apparently. Probably looking at the end of June now.
Last edited by Fen on Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Bugger , but best do it right the first time aye bud, I'd like something like that but might have to home build something me thinks.
Also need some new Muddies, but they don't bring Bridgestones in 33s in any more so will have to get another brand , not quite sure what to get , I like the look of the Federal Couragia on T/M but no one can tell me how they go, Buckshots are a bit stiff in the side wall and don't bulge when they are aired down, Sumotomo's are a bit soft and wear quickly, bloody excellent tire in the mud new though, and have also seen some called Green Diamond with silicon carbide chips in the tread in the states ??? decisions decisions
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
Fen wrote:ARB bar didn't happen this week because the tyre carrier isn't here yet and it's a major to fit it without and then add it after apparently. Probably looking at the end of June now.
I will have to find my install instructions, but I do remember that the bumper goes on the frame first. Tyre carrier is then installed on top later. Otherwise the whole thing is too heavy to lift, align and put on the frame. There are 18 bolts that hold the entire bumper to the frame and cross member!
That makes sense. I assume there is some sort of finisher that goes in if it doesn't have the carrier as it would look pretty odd otherwise, and maybe the difference is just around fitting that (in which case they could have just left it like that for a few weeks as far as I am concerned).
I'm having it fitted rather than have to take a vehicle into Welly (or make a special trip to Palmy) that can carry the thing home, because that vehicle would be my J20 and the fuel would cost half the fitting charge, and then I'd have to pay to park it as it's too tall to fit in the parking building I use. Combine that cost / hassle with the weekend of swearing that would be involved in fitting it and I decided to be lazy.
Water pump is on its way out and I think I tore the transmission mount - Dropping a gear for more engine braking something went ping and now it vibrates from about 2,500 rpm, but probably it happened because I didn't realise I should unbolt it before fitting my MML until I'd lifted the whole truck through it trying to get the clearance I needed.
Still, it's only money, and both our DDs have decided to try to bankrupt me this month so the TJ may as well have a go too. I'm $2.5k into mine over the past 6 weeks just on tyres, brakes and servicing, and my wife's radiator split while towing last weekend, apparently that took out the water pump, which then caused the (water cooled) alternator to fail on Saturday. I dread to think what that lot is going to cost by the time it's back in the garage, but I guess it could have done a head gasket or even warped the heads so maybe I got off light after all.
Yeeeha lookin good mate, I see you've trimmed some of the guards off to give those tires some room to move. Bugger about all the problems, cash usually sorts that tho like you say.
Yea, though I drive through the valley of death (and it's mudbogs), I shall fear no trail;for tho art modified is my rig, and thy lift kit and lockers they comfort me. Amen
