Offroad-Express

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 859861.htm

SHIT!.... I must have looked EVERYWHERE (except trademe) for these............... THESE ARE WHAT WE WANT.. maybe not up to 150psi... i dunno. may be a little high?...... far nicer in size than my current switch... ALTHOUGH i think my current switch releases air pressure from the pump line when its off so that its not starting at full pressure....could be wrong.

Yeah I found them a while ago when looking for parts but I think it's a little too high, most hand tools and air lockers operate around 90psi?

You would use a regulator at the tank to control the operating pressure coming from the tank. That switch on trade me controls the tank pressure and controls when the compressor turns on and off. If you want 90 PSI operating pressure you need more pressure in the tank to enable a steady pressure supply to your air tool

Heath wrote:pretty sure the sanden compressors can be run as a grease filled unit and not need an oiler. Cant find the link though (sorry)

Here you go, I posted it earlier in the thread, Click here

kiwipete wrote:

Heath wrote:pretty sure the sanden compressors can be run as a grease filled unit and not need an oiler. Cant find the link though (sorry)

Here you go, I posted it earlier in the thread, Click here

Yeah I saw that thread. The sanden compressors are the vehicle mounted air con pumps (have varying number of pistons too). From the picture you had of one in bits I assumed it was a sanden (hence my comments on sanden compressor mods), of course I could have mis identified your air con compressor. Watchin with interest though.

It has a brand name cast into it- i will report back on that. This however is 6 piston- each piston is 37mm in diameter if that helps.

AND..... While having a look at the housings etc and marking out which ports which and how the air flows around the thing- it does actually look possible to make the middle section sealed like on the sanden units (it becomes a sump, basically). which makes me very happy.

OK, now for kinda something conclusive. I managed to get an hour to myself with a clean table to lay the parts out and label bits to see how everything worked.

Nissan safari pumps appear to be very very similar to the sanden pumps.

The "crankcase" ( for lack of a better word) doubles as the sump (just like in the sanden pumps) and has only these two breather holes up high in the pumps air intake port. Otherwise its sealed.

The Swash plate (the plate that wobbles and makes the pistons move) swoops down into the oil in the crankcase to keep itself lubed and it probably flicks a hell of oil up at the backs of the pistons/cylinders to help keep them lubed.

To anyone else using one of these pumps I suggest undoing the filler bolt at the top of the pump and topping up the oil there occasionally as it probably leaks out past the rings slowly and without that oil your bearings will end up running dry......... which brings me to my next point.

At the non drive end of the swash plates shaft there is a beautiful little oil pump.

It sucks oil up from the bottom of the crank case and then forces it into a hole in the end of the shaft. It then travels along the shaft and out of 4 holes to lube all 4 bearings with oil.

OK.. so in conclusion. In line oilers aren't really doing SFA for you. You may as well just squirt a little oil in the intake every so often to help keep the pistons lubed.... but MOST IMPORTANTLY don't let the sump run dry. I have no idea how much oil is supposed to be in there... say around 2 cups I'd imagine. Highly suggest pulling the sumps drain plug (alen key bolt on the underside of non drive end of the pump) and draining your oil just to make sure there actually is some in there.


anyways. Pics.

NDE crank case half, arrows point to the two breather hoes the channel which feeds oil to the oil pump and the oil drain plug.



Other side of the same case half. Arrows point to the two breather holes, and the oil pumps oil pickup.




Swash plate + its shaft. left end drives the oil pump. All other holes supply the bearings.



The little oil pump.




One of the valve plates. Each plate has 6 reed valves. The visable 3 let air OUT of the cylinders. The middle most 3 shiney holes are the reed valves which let air IN

hey guys

just thought i would give an update on this from the original plan....

I have been a bit scarce on the forums of late (like the last 3 months!!!!), but turns out my ac pumpm isnt hooked up....no belt by the looks of it!!!

still on my list of things to do though!!!!

Anyone intrested in Sanden pumps?i think i counted about 6 or 7 in the 3 pick a parts in auckland.

pretty sure 5 were v groove belts and one was a serpentine belt type.

Nav2NV wrote:Anyone intrested in Sanden pumps?i think i counted about 6 or 7 in the 3 pick a parts in auckland.

pretty sure 5 were v groove belts and one was a serpentine belt type.

yes.. cost? I am in Akl next week so if not too heavy could bring a couple back with me (luggage limits)

W

williamhamilton wrote:

Nav2NV wrote:Anyone intrested in Sanden pumps?i think i counted about 6 or 7 in the 3 pick a parts in auckland.

pretty sure 5 were v groove belts and one was a serpentine belt type.

yes.. cost? I am in Akl next week so if not too heavy could bring a couple back with me (luggage limits)

W

Do you remember in what vehicles? I am very much a newb on this so want to make sure I do not get the wrong thing heading up on Biz Tue/Wed and hope to have a rental can and fingers crossed a slot of time on Tue avo before I fly home.

Anyone join me in a scavenger hunt Wed afternoon?

W

bump.. what should one of the above pumps cost?

W

about 50 bucks compressor only.

i recomend grabbing both hose fittings cause they are a stupid size and cost about 25 each from cool car(bought some last week for a mate)

i also recommend grabbing the mounting plates possibly,could make life abit easier when it comes to mounting them,each to their own.

not sure what total cost would be.

Nav2NV wrote:about 50 bucks compressor only.

i recomend grabbing both hose fittings cause they are a stupid size and cost about 25 each from cool car(bought some last week for a mate)

i also recommend grabbing the mounting plates possibly,could make life abit easier when it comes to mounting them,each to their own.

not sure what total cost would be.

Cheers. working to clear a slot so I can get to one of the ards tomorrow. Wish me luck

W

did you guys ask the likes of supercheap for any of those compressors that have been damaged in transit or motors dead , i brought one for 20 bucks used the reg, safety valve, and pressure cut out . the a/c clutch wired into the switch so it engages when pressure is down and disengages at max pressure simple ,

williamhamilton wrote:

Nav2NV wrote:about 50 bucks compressor only.

i recomend grabbing both hose fittings cause they are a stupid size and cost about 25 each from cool car(bought some last week for a mate)

i also recommend grabbing the mounting plates possibly,could make life abit easier when it comes to mounting them,each to their own.

not sure what total cost would be.

Cheers. working to clear a slot so I can get to one of the ards tomorrow. Wish me luck

W

Here is a sanden for sale

Yeah cool, but where and how much?

rokhound wrote:Yeah cool, but where and how much?

stick ya mouse over the pic and click on the link

the picture is essentially one big link to the trademe auction.

I have a Sanden SD7V16 for sale if anybody is interested.

$120.00 plus freight.

I would suggest that you want the SD series of Sanden pumps either 508 or 709 seem to be popular. These are easy to convert and suit the grease filled sump. Only one hole to block between the sump and the head.
The V series pump are a variable drive and not as suited for endless air.
To cool the air I bent a few coils of 1/2 inch soft copper attached at the outlet and then the standard hose is fine.
My 508 is set to pump to 150PSI and only drops to 95PSI when filling 35 tyres. worth the hassle of setting up.

romica wrote:I would suggest that you want the SD series of Sanden pumps either 508 or 709 seem to be popular. These are easy to convert and suit the grease filled sump. Only one hole to block between the sump and the head.
The V series pump are a variable drive and not as suited for endless air.
To cool the air I bent a few coils of 1/2 inch soft copper attached at the outlet and then the standard hose is fine.
My 508 is set to pump to 150PSI and only drops to 95PSI when filling 35 tyres. worth the hassle of setting up.

Have you got any photos of your setup please?
I will be tackling mine soon.

i found a train air horn hee hee on board air is fun

chrome wrote:i found a train air horn hee hee on board air is fun

were about did one find the train horn compressure

just the horn ow

arrrr crap i should realy read the text right before typing.

well im still looking for a compressure.

jus go to a pickapart place and find one with brackets that can be easily modded, something will be all good u just have to look around

chrome wrote:
just the horn ow

ENVY!!! I want one

W

romica wrote:I would suggest that you want the SD series of Sanden pumps either 508 or 709 seem to be popular. These are easy to convert and suit the grease filled sump. Only one hole to block between the sump and the head.
The V series pump are a variable drive and not as suited for endless air.
To cool the air I bent a few coils of 1/2 inch soft copper attached at the outlet and then the standard hose is fine.
My 508 is set to pump to 150PSI and only drops to 95PSI when filling 35 tyres. worth the hassle of setting up.

Can you elaborate any more on why the Variable drive isn't as suitable????

SD7v16 etc etc are jus a newer model to the old SD508 etc (I assume you would know 5 represents 5 pistons and 08 is displacement in cubic inches i assume ???709= 7 piston 9 inches)

SD7v16 essentially is metric.... 7 pistons and 16 (160) cubic centimeteres of displacements and so on.

flyingbrick wrote:OK, now for kinda something conclusive. I managed to get an hour to myself with a clean table to lay the parts out and label bits to see how everything worked.

Nissan safari pumps appear to be very very similar to the sanden pumps.

The "crankcase" ( for lack of a better word) doubles as the sump (just like in the sanden pumps) and has only these two breather holes up high in the pumps air intake port. Otherwise its sealed.

The Swash plate (the plate that wobbles and makes the pistons move) swoops down into the oil in the crankcase to keep itself lubed and it probably flicks a hell of oil up at the backs of the pistons/cylinders to help keep them lubed.

To anyone else using one of these pumps I suggest undoing the filler bolt at the top of the pump and topping up the oil there occasionally as it probably leaks out past the rings slowly and without that oil your bearings will end up running dry......... which brings me to my next point.

At the non drive end of the swash plates shaft there is a beautiful little oil pump.

It sucks oil up from the bottom of the crank case and then forces it into a hole in the end of the shaft. It then travels along the shaft and out of 4 holes to lube all 4 bearings with oil.

OK.. so in conclusion. In line oilers aren't really doing SFA for you. You may as well just squirt a little oil in the intake every so often to help keep the pistons lubed.... but MOST IMPORTANTLY don't let the sump run dry. I have no idea how much oil is supposed to be in there... say around 2 cups I'd imagine. Highly suggest pulling the sumps drain plug (alen key bolt on the underside of non drive end of the pump) and draining your oil just to make sure there actually is some in there.


anyways. Pics.

NDE crank case half, arrows point to the two breather hoes the channel which feeds oil to the oil pump and the oil drain plug.



Other side of the same case half. Arrows point to the two breather holes, and the oil pumps oil pickup.




Swash plate + its shaft. left end drives the oil pump. All other holes supply the bearings.



The little oil pump.




One of the valve plates. Each plate has 6 reed valves. The visable 3 let air OUT of the cylinders. The middle most 3 shiney holes are the reed valves which let air IN

cheers for that bit of info. so you are saying that so long as the sump is kept full of oil, I won't need an inline oiler?.
Also, when i turn the a/c compressor on with the engine running, the air coming out of the ports seems to be very oily. will this just be the old air con oil coming out?

flyingbrick wrote:OK, now for kinda something conclusive. I managed to get an hour to myself with a clean table to lay the parts out and label bits to see how everything worked.

Nissan safari pumps appear to be very very similar to the sanden pumps.

The "crankcase" ( for lack of a better word) doubles as the sump (just like in the sanden pumps) and has only these two breather holes up high in the pumps air intake port. Otherwise its sealed.

The Swash plate (the plate that wobbles and makes the pistons move) swoops down into the oil in the crankcase to keep itself lubed and it probably flicks a hell of oil up at the backs of the pistons/cylinders to help keep them lubed.

To anyone else using one of these pumps I suggest undoing the filler bolt at the top of the pump and topping up the oil there occasionally as it probably leaks out past the rings slowly and without that oil your bearings will end up running dry......... which brings me to my next point.

At the non drive end of the swash plates shaft there is a beautiful little oil pump.

It sucks oil up from the bottom of the crank case and then forces it into a hole in the end of the shaft. It then travels along the shaft and out of 4 holes to lube all 4 bearings with oil.

OK.. so in conclusion. In line oilers aren't really doing SFA for you. You may as well just squirt a little oil in the intake every so often to help keep the pistons lubed.... but MOST IMPORTANTLY don't let the sump run dry. I have no idea how much oil is supposed to be in there... say around 2 cups I'd imagine. Highly suggest pulling the sumps drain plug (alen key bolt on the underside of non drive end of the pump) and draining your oil just to make sure there actually is some in there.


anyways. Pics.

NDE crank case half, arrows point to the two breather hoes the channel which feeds oil to the oil pump and the oil drain plug.



Other side of the same case half. Arrows point to the two breather holes, and the oil pumps oil pickup.




Swash plate + its shaft. left end drives the oil pump. All other holes supply the bearings.



The little oil pump.




One of the valve plates. Each plate has 6 reed valves. The visable 3 let air OUT of the cylinders. The middle most 3 shiney holes are the reed valves which let air IN

cheers for that bit of info. so you are saying that so long as the sump is kept full of oil, I won't need an inline oiler?.
Also, when i turn the a/c compressor on with the engine running, the air coming out of the ports seems to be very oily. will this just be the old air con oil coming out?