WEAPON

[wopass]

i only thought it was noisy cos i could hear it from the bottom of the hill

[rangimotors]

any idea how thick that bmw 14 inch fan is? looks like the sort of thing im after

[DieselBoy]

About 120mm at it's thickest point (the very center of the fan blade), the center of the fan blade is 100mm thick.

Wopass is looking at it ATM, so PM him and he can get the part number off it.

[rangimotors]

cool thanks for that, ill have a measure up tonight before i get carried away. I think it may still be a bit thick, might end up having to squeeze in two 10 inch ones.

[DieselBoy]

It's been a while, and have been busy doing all the fun blingy stuff, and solving a few niggly mechanical bug's a the same time.

We are off to it's first event this weekend, so it's all finished and ready to RAWK





So what's been going on behind the sceens.........

First up is the 3mm Alloy roof as per 4x4 Challenge's requirements, this bolts to some corner gusset's thoughtfully built into the cage:





Then there's the high level spot's on removable frame, these bolt to the same corner gusset's as the roof does. They are easily removed by unplugging via a trailer type plug. I wired them up so the two outer "spread" lights can be operated independently of the two inner "spot" lights.

It's tight, but both the roof and the lights just manage to share the gusset:


Being an ex-trial's rig, there was never any need to carry a spare, and with the fuel tank in the back, there was no room in the tray, so needed another option that was easily removable.
Ended up like this:

I just blazed the two pipe's onto the existing rear bar, and the tyre carrier sleeve's inside:

It's not ideal, it obscures the tow hook a lot, and i'm not going to show you a pick of the boogy assortment of nut's and threaded rod and spacers that attach the top of the carrier to the roll cage under the rear tourney cover
Hangs out the back a fair bit aswell, I don't think it will be put on the back very often!!!!


Urrrrrm, what else.

Oh, added some rear marker light's as per 4x4 Challenge's requirements. $10 LED's from supercheap, 100% water proof goodness:


Scored some vinyl seats for a great price off a mate (cheers man ) and slapped those in:


Some switch's and stuff. The two on the drivers side are for the fan. One turns the fan off from the "auto" mode, where the thermo switch control's everything, and the other switch is the manual control switch for it. The two switch's on the passenger side are for the roof lights, spread and spot.
The big switch by it's self is the hard wired winch control:


Speaking of hard wiring the winch, someone asked a question about that in another thread, it's easy as, see the two red wire's in the photo, those go the switch on the dash. Most people would also take a third wire to the switch from the solenoid pack that carries 12V, but as i have to run a kill/isolator switch, i took my 12v feed from the switched side of the isolator. Also you can see I have left the Plug for the remote attached, so i can still plug the remote in if needed. I like having the solenoid pack out of it's casing like i have donw, easy to clean, check and repair/replace.


Seeing as i was poking around in the engine bay, i realised I had also managed to squeeze in two NS70 batteries:


I have been out on a few test run's, and even the slightest hint of mud left the engine bay full. I've got plastic gaurds everywhere, but the only place that was still open was the underneath of the engine bay. Driving overgrownb tracks also made me nervous, as the chance of getting a stick up through the radiator was pretty high, so i quickly wiped this up out of left overs:

Should hopefully stop the mud getting to the belt's and then getting showered over the engine.


What else..........


Oh, changed the Zaust around, it had a 44gallon drum on the back, and the coby hanging down on the middle of the truck dragging along the ground. Took the 44gallon drum down to the scrap metal dealers, and moved the coby to the back out of the way:



Also, while taking pic's under there, i realised i had also been playing with the T.Case and T.case mount's. I got the T.case mount's made bigger and stronger out of Nolathane, and spent some time aligning the T.case with the gear box, as it's got a tiny intermediate shaft, and managed to get rid of some driveline vibe's:



So that's about it for now. Got some mechanical improvement's to come, got a 5speed gear box to go in and some change's to the powersteering, but at the moment, this is as it stand's:



It better come back from Gwava's 24hr challenge in 1 piece

[mike]

nice work db, yet another bling build by the bling meister!

you missed a pic of the driver and navi just to finish it off

[Bolo]

Well done , it looks awesome

[Satalite]

nice work db, yet another bling build by the bling meister!

you missed a pic of the driver and navi just to finish it off

Hopefully will get one of us in action this weekend for the driver navi shot

[mroffroader]

Hopefully will get one of us in action:P

awsome shit pete looks swish and silliconed as per usual

get that 5 speed box and bolt a 4age straight onto it (im guessing your talking about a T50 toyota box? because as im sure you know 4afe and 4age = same block.....4age's go mint)

[DieselBoy]

Hopefully will get one of us in action:P

awsome shit pete looks swish and silliconed as per usual

get that 5 speed box and bolt a 4age straight onto it (im guessing your talking about a T50 toyota box? because as im sure you know 4afe and 4age = same block.....4age's go mint)

lol, the 4afe is way better for off road, it actually HAS a tiny little bit of torque, the 4age has none
They're the same motor, just different head for different performance characteristic's, 4age has lots top end and better Hp overall and a 50 degree valve angle, 4afe sacafice's some top end for bottom end and more torque over all and has a 28 degree valve angle.

Sticking with the K series box, lighter and shorter and cheaper. could rebuild 3 K series box's for the price of a T50 box plus the $$$A$$$ series bell housing

[turoa]

are you sure 4afe has more torque?

4afe

(Europe/Japan spec: 115 hp @ 6000 rpm)

* Torque: 101 ft·lbf (137 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
* Redline: 6300 rpm
* Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

4age

# Power: 115–140 hp @ 6600 rpm
# Torque: 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 5800 rpm
# Redline: 7600 rpm
# Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

[lilpigzuk]

The low redline in it did suck a little. But if you are gonna piss around with a GE may as well got GZE

[Madaz]

The low redline in it did suck a little. But if you are gonna piss around with a GE may as well got GZE

You mean a 1uz-fe

[vvega]

are you sure 4afe has more torque?

4afe

(Europe/Japan spec: 115 hp @ 6000 rpm)

* Torque: 101 ft·lbf (137 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
* Redline: 6300 rpm
* Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

4age

# Power: 115–140 hp @ 6600 rpm
# Torque: 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 5800 rpm
# Redline: 7600 rpm
# Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

youll find he means peak t is lower and at the point is higher than a 4age

if he wants more .. 7afe is the go
if he went 4agze .. he will start smashing shit .. as it is now its a light powerful package and power to wieght is good

if he starts upgrading diffs and axels .. the wieght goes up and well..then he might as well own a hilux with a 1uz and 9" difs

#### pete those seats look awesome way better than they did in mine

looks fantastic .. when my rads finished .. ill leave mine out your place for a few weeks

[wopass]

are you sure 4afe has more torque?

4afe

(Europe/Japan spec: 115 hp @ 6000 rpm)

* Torque: 101 ft·lbf (137 N·m) @ 4800 rpm
* Redline: 6300 rpm
* Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

4age

# Power: 115–140 hp @ 6600 rpm
# Torque: 148 N·m (109 lb·ft) @ 5800 rpm
# Redline: 7600 rpm
# Fuel Delivery System: MPFI

now thats interesting!!, i thought the fe had more balls (nm) than the ge but there you go, it hasnt.

charge it!!

[DieselBoy]

Hahahaha, nooooo, it some how manage's to hang together as it is, and i like that

Try this for a logic process:

To add more power increases the drive train stress

To upgrade the drive train would mean hilux diff's and W series gear box and transfer case.

To account for the bigger diff's and maintain ground clearence, i would need to run 35's or bigger.

All of a sudden the little 4agze ain't so powerfull when trying to haul the extra weight and turn the big tyres......

What would be gained??

It's all about power to weight ratio. I have seen plenty of 4age powered zooks, and they lunch stuff on a regular basis, and nearly alway's end up with hilux axle's under them.

This is the first 4afe powered one i have seen, and it stood up to A Class abuse for a couple of years with out even spitting a CV (would say thats more driver skill ) so it might be just the right combination. Just that little bit more go go than the Vitara 1600, but not quite enough to smash thing's on demand

At the moment it is nut's enough, give it full throttle in 3rd and it's OWWWWWWWWWWWN

Oh and Tu's, pulled from the same source :

.........other design differences and the intake which is tuned for a primary harmonic resonance at low RPM means that it has about 20% less power compared to the 4A-GE engine. The advantage of this engine design is that it improved fuel efficiency and torque, the disadvantage is that it compromises power.

Either way, its got more power than The 50 and Thundergut's put together

When fund's allow, I will probably have a go at rewiring it with a Link G3 or something like that. Should then be able to tweak the bottom end up even more and move the rev cut up a bit.

[DieselBoy]

This got donated to the cause yesterday buy some good bugger's up the line a bit (thanks heaps ):



Seems it wasn't quite strong enough for the vehicle they were trying to pull:


So hacked out the bent bit:


Made a new bit:


Added a slightly longer gusset:



Sat back and thought about how i could have done it differently and made it stronger


Only took an hour, so not much thinking went into it

Decided it needed a test, so The 50 got roped into test duty:


Seems to work. Needed some paint. All i had left over was some bright red 2k Acrathane from Thundergut's. Ain't gonna loose it in a hurry



Had left over paint so some other recovery gear got painted............................

[DieselBoy]

Made a simple mount up for the back of the Zook so it's easy to get at.



The spare wheel won't be there during comp's


If its going to be in use a lot, I've set it up so you just pull out a couple of pins and the anchor comes off, or it can be bolted on as it is in the pic's. It will rattle around a bit when just pinned.


Quick rope repair too. The over braid took a hammering at the tough truck challenge. Trick with this stuff is to put heat shrink over the damaged area. Doesn't last long, but its a slightly better than doing nothing about it.

[gimmemud]

Shit you don't muck around do you pete. Nice work.
If you use thick wall heat shrink it'll last a lot longer but of course wont bend as nice around the drum

[MNC]

Shit you don't muck around do you pete. Nice work...

He's got ants in his pants Maybe I should get some ants... Might get something done on my truck

[UBZ]

looking slick DB . Notice the weapon is nice and shiny again. how many hours did that take

[Sadam_Husain]

looking slick DB . Notice the weapon is nice and shiny again. how many hours did that take

Sarah must have done it..... blokes cant get stuff that clean

[mike]

you could also have put a piece of flat on edge where it bent(oppisite side to the gusset) thus effectively giving it a strong back but since the zuk is half the weight you'll never have probs like a heavier truck

[DieselBoy]

looking slick DB . Notice the weapon is nice and shiny again. how many hours did that take

It just got the usual quick scrub after Gwava's







Only about two wheel barrow loads of mud off it so not that dirty

[vvega]

#### your a crack up pete
but im still getting tommo's mud in my eye everytime i work on mine so i do have apreciation
btw i started mine last night ...

[MNC]

Got to admire that dedication! I'm impressed at the effort you go to for a clean up. Wow! even the front panel came off (to clean the radiator completely???).

[mroffroader]

dont forget the gazquillion (yes i just invented that amount, and its alot ) of sillycone!!!

[wopass]

dont forget the gazquillion (yes i just invented that amount, and its alot ) of sillycone!!!

[DieselBoy]

Looking at getting a set of these over:

http://www.trailtough.com/index.php?pag ... &Itemid=53



Can't go wrong for the price. Anyone else want a set, could share shipping

[lilpigzuk]

confirm they do them for SJ413s Pete. America never got the 413 just the samurai - ie the WT diffs. If they do the 413 length then could be keen. Be suprised if they made the NT version for outside of america. Be a nice upgrade though