chopping and modding yn60 hilux surf

[muddyhilux]

nice bro,very nice

[J_Dub]

righto, I have the adaptor kit from Marks4wd sitting in my shed and the 3.8 motor is ready to come out this weekend.
I know nothing about electrics and refering to Marks4wd they say i will need ecm and memcal, map sensor and purge canister...
what the hell are these and do i need them..
The ecm (computer) is behind the passengers kick panel right???
Is the memcal insider this also???
whats a map sensor and purge canister? where are they located??

[coxsy]

map maybe mass air sensor

[chevrolux]

memcal is just the chip in the computer. not sure wtf the purge canister is?! MAP sensor is manifold air pressure. it just measures the vacum in the intake. look on the firewall for a little module with vacum lines going to it. dont wtf a purge canister is though lol

[gimmemud]

Do they mean Charcoal canister? Haven't run one on mine for a while. the map sensor will have green tubes going from around the throttle butterfly to a little (40x30mm ish) box on the firewall.
The Ecm is in the kick panel. You only need one power cable to run it at that end and there is another couple of plugs at the other end of the loom for the rest of the wires. It will run on the standard memcal but can only accept 5% performance change, which apparently is at it's limit with big exhaust and free air flow with snorkel. I Got a stage 3 for mine of trademe but wasn't extremely happy with it, the motor performed better with standard until i took the restrictor out after the throttle body.

[gimmemud]

Just saw in your forsale post you say you got a VR Auto? If so you'll need a manual computer. and the loom to make it easier.

[J_Dub]

sweet cheers Tim. yep charcoal canister is the other term, i guess I can do with that then..

[muddyhilux]

look for the guy on tm who sells comps / mecals with them pictured on a blue background,hes in mangere i think it was,get him to set you up a vp manual comp with whatever stage memcal and that'l run your motor,up to vp auto's were cable driven,vr and up the comps worked the auto,its the easyist way he reckons and the cheapest

plus nice work,your definatly moving along with it arnt you,oscars only just got the motor out of my shed ,out of interestt what did you pay for kit?hes gona be ringing dellows in a day or 2 so hopefully he'll have all parts sorted before xmas and throw them in just after

[J_Dub]

yep your spot on there. I found out last night that the VP comps and looms are best to use.. I found a guy in foxton that can do the custom looms, but i will try find that dude your talking about..

I will pm you about the price for the kit, i dont want to get anyone in the poo or upset anyone, but make sure he doesnt go through any NZ agents for the Aussie crowds.. I havent heard the best things about Dellows...

[muddyhilux]

oh all ya gota do is mod the plug youve got or go to pickapart,cut out the loom with comp plug and swap all the pins over,thats what were planning with oscars

and realy?i heard it was marks adaptors getting skimmed due to not being dead parallel ,doesn't it suck when there's so many different stories out there ae,just don't know what to believe

[J_Dub]

right i think ive come to a point where ive brought everything i need to get this machine back on the road and doing properly what it was designed to do, just need to fit everything now..

[J_Dub]

disc brake brackets arrived today. SNR4X4 are damn good to deal with, anything ive ordered has arrived 2 days after payment.

now to find prado discs and mr2 calipers

[J_Dub]

well i shouldnt be updating mine the same afternoon as rokhound does his but its all good being overshadowed by the grandaddy of the mac dad hilux,s

locked diff re-installed
stripped old drum setup
put a hold on re-fitting axles as i may aswell fit new bearings while they are out so will fit new bearings during the week, then finish off the disc conversion.
stripped rear leaves for a quick paint but they are a bit pitted so i think they will be getting replaced in a couple months.
and thats it, beer and sun got in the way.

next week, finish disc brake conversion.
get high steer under way
i want this thing going by end March

[J_Dub]

disc conversion done, finally few issues being its the narrower rear end, will did wide axle swap, but for now its rolling again and i can work on the front end...

Anybody have any info on fuel cells???
Rules and how it can and cant be fitted etc..
1 thing I hate with Hilux,s is the fuel tank, where it sits and how low it is..
Ive got room on my deck to mount a fuel cell, and that would sit it right over the axle.... Whats the go?????

[J_Dub]

front end stripped, cleaned, rebuilt, painted and re-fitted with rears up front, ready for high-steer.
and engine mounts and torque rod mount removed and engine bay ready for new mounts.. a good weekend

[Petemcc]

Are they they original u bolts? I thought you had to flip them with custom ones or something? I pan on doing ruf and cross over etc would be good not to have to worry about new u bolts! Great write up mate I look forward to the updates. Make sure you take lots of pics of the steering. What did you do for the hand brake?

[haynzy]

can you post a side pick showing shackle angle?

[J_Dub]

im using a transfer brake
i dont see why you have to do a U bolt flip for high steer, i know its the other way round ie: you cant do U bolt flip with standard steering.... but thats why ive left them untouched as i think i will do a U bolt flip, but at this stage it wont hold me up..

[J_Dub]

can you post a side pick showing shackle angle?

hhmmm so you knew shackle angle would be touch n go..
its mm away from touching chassis, without the weight of engine in either.
Whats the best way to over come this? longer shackles?

[Fakey]

Longer shackles will just drop your pinnion downward an you might find the d/shaft slipjoint will seperate during articulation

[haynzy]

you need to drop the front spring mount about 65mm this will help immensly, most do a full new crossmember, this also helps keep the castor angle right

[J_Dub]

isnt that effectively just raising it?
i know this is done on most rears up front but I cant get my head around how droping the front mounts alter the shackle angle?
the rears are longer hence the shackle angle being pushed right back, but by dropping the front hanger the length still remains the same dont it???
im keen to hear the ins and outs

[haynzy]

isnt that effectively just raising it?
i know this is done on most rears up front but I cant get my head around how droping the front mounts alter the shackle angle?
the rears are longer hence the shackle angle being pushed right back, but by dropping the front hanger the length still remains the same dont it???
im keen to hear the ins and outs

some times it best not to wonder why as this has been done many times before and the same problem you are encountering always pops up,the only other way is to move the rear mount back but you are best to lower the front, no point doin the hard yards and being left with a truck that dont handle too good....

[Petemcc]

I know where you are coming from J_dub want the crossover and rears up front but without a massive lift as you will still do lots of road ks. I have the same plan. There are plenty of ways to skin a cat. Do it once and do it right for how you want it.

If you lower the front mounts then you could try taking out more leafs but that might make it a bit more tippy not being as stiff?

Move the shackle back and then adjust the pinion angle at the the diff?


I'm sure there is a solution....

[J_Dub]

isnt that effectively just raising it?
i know this is done on most rears up front but I cant get my head around how droping the front mounts alter the shackle angle?
the rears are longer hence the shackle angle being pushed right back, but by dropping the front hanger the length still remains the same dont it???
im keen to hear the ins and outs

some times it best not to wonder why as this has been done many times before and the same problem you are encountering always pops up,the only other way is to move the rear mount back but you are best to lower the front, no point doin the hard yards and being left with a truck that dont handle too good....

all very well, and im not at all doubting whats been done before but i still want to know why im doing it and how it works

[hosehustler]

You need to drop the front spring mounts the SAME amount as you lengthen the front spring shackels, either a new cross member or fabbing up some lengthened mounts, this will keep castor angle close to factory, very important other wise "death wobble" will occur, not nice. As others have already pointed out RUF always need a longer slip joint for your drive shaft due to flex, and no you don't have to do a U bolt flip but if you're goint to the trouble of doing the above you may as well tick it off at the same time.

[J_Dub]

awesome cheers
is it an option to lengthen shackles then re-position spring perches on the axle??
as by lengthening shackles then dropping front hangers is gona give me alot more lift, and im trying to keep this relatively low.. as possible anyway....
cheers for the info fellas

Jared

[hosehustler]

basically you can't keep a low centre of gravity and run hi steer without drastically modifying the chassis (check out pirate4x4 some have done it), you need room for the drag link and tie rod to be while flexing, and with hi steer they are both above the springs soooooo the only room is between the chassis rails and the springs........ a significant lift is req

[J_Dub]

extending bumpstops is a have to then aswell??

[hosehustler]

yes and long travel shocks req