Offroad-Express

SOLD!!!

what do you drink?

MULLET

No more overheating issues for now

But.........lately I have noticed a bit of an oil leak out of my rear diff. the leak is coming from the front of the diff, where the pinion flange exits the diff head. It's not leaking heaps just a little after a hard drive in the river bed.

Here are some pics to show where the oil leak is:
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l140/ ... 7_1244.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l140/ ... 7_1243.jpg
http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l140/ ... 7_1242.jpg

I checked the diff oils yesterday, the front one still seems fine but the rear one seems to have picked up some water. I could'nt check the level of oil in the rear diff because it seems waaaaay overfilled at the moment, I'm thinking the reason for this is that the oil has "bulked up" because of the water mixed in with it.

My question is: Is it very hard to replace that oil seal at the front of the diff? My understanding is that you unbolt the driveshaft, then undo the castle nut or whatever holding the flange to the pinion shaft and then it should be all pretty easy to replace the oil seal. My concern is that I may be getting in a little over my head, is this the sort of repair that requires special torqueing, tolerances, turns in and out.....etc. etc. etc?

once again my CHILTON manual seems as usefull as tits on a bull.

MULLET

yer it is pretty easy to do i have just done my rear one. just follow the manual, just prize the old seal out with a screwdriver or something like that, clean up around the seal and replace with the new one, try to keep it flat as possible when you drive it home the new seal that is, replace nut and tighten to what it was, first mark where the nut was so it will go back to that spot hopefully, you can do it

Technically it should be torqued up again, but just do it up to approx how tight it was before, and yes, taking note of where the nut was sitting is a pretty good indication of where it should be.

Check ya breathers and make sure they arent blocked. Thats the usualy cause of a seal leaking (other than it being worn out or damaged obviously)

just follow the manual

The manual reckons I'm a retard and this is outa my league. Thanks chilton.

Check ya breathers and make sure they arent blocked.

Yeh they seem fine but when I do this seal I'm guna drop the oil out, replace it and crack out the clear plastic tubing and make some nice high breathers.

Just a few more questions before I get stuck in (I've been scared into thinking diffs contain a certain degree of voodoo magic):

Is it likely that the oil seal is only buggered because the bearing is buggered (like what happens with wheel bearings and seals) or is it probably just the seal? I don't want to replace the seal only to have it stuff out again and find out I should have done the bearing at the same time. Is there any way to check if the bearing is stuffed? check for play back and forth?

I heard I can put a mark with a center punch on the nut and the pinion shaft and then count the turns off and on and it should be alright, Is this true? does anyone know what this nut should be torqued up to in my model of truck?

Do I have to replace the "oil slinger" (whatever the hell that is) as well as the oil seal?

Thanks for the help guys

I pulled that starter down mate and it seems to be in really good nick (compared to my other 3 starters!)

MULLET

Input bearings on diffs dont usually fail. Seals do just wear out. Check for up/down movement, or in/out. You cant tell from any rotaionaly movement.

Ring up toyota, with the chassis number, speak to the workshop technical person, usually the foreman, and ask for the torque. Thats all we ever do at work.

Replace seal, tadaaar! magic!

hey mullet good to see that starter was good had no probs when it was in my truck, just looked up my manual for the torque setings for the pinion nut and its says 343nm what ever that is in foot pounds, it also has a note saying *The drive pinion flange nut must be torqued in 13 Nm increments to obtain the required drive pinion bearing preload,

343 Nm is 253 lbf-ft

13Nm is 9.6 lbf-ft

There is am awesome freeware called Convert that does all that.

MULLET, I have the toyota Hilux/Surf diff manual on file, If you send me an email, marked subject 4WD I will send it to you, and any one else that is interested. IF it is not subject 4WD and I don't know the names emails tend to get deleted.
An old trick I use ( you won't find this in the manual ) is to remove the collapsible spacer, place over a round object and hammer the creased
section down till it is half the hight it was, this will allow it to collapse again when the pinion nut is torqued up, giving you a better preload. Also check the pinon flange face where the seal runs, if badly worn you can fit a speedy sleeve, ask for it when you get your seal. Make sure you fit a double lip seal, one that keeps the oil in and the water out.

IT 'S DIFF ER ENT.

FITZY.

Opp's, forgot karen.kevin@xtra.co.nz.

OK I'M ON NIGHT SHIFT,

FITZY.

Sorry to be off topic but you do realise Kev that posting your email address like that means that in a couple of days it will end up on every spam list on the internet Spam robots trawl forums for email addresses

huh. I did not know that mike.

thanks for the tech monaro427 and IcedJohnno

smokey do you mean the .pdf file labelled: "1985toyotatruckfsm.pdf" if so I've already got it. Thanks for the heads up though. :thumleft:

Well I had a look today, the bearing or bearings on the pinion shaft seem to be shagged. There is a fair bit of sideways movement. The one on the front diff would'nt move sideways at all. Added to that the locking nut on the pinion shaft (of the rear diff) was easy to move with my fingers! not exactly torqued up eh! (naturally it would only move as far as the little dent in the notch would allow.)

http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l140/ ... 49edit.jpg

So from having a look at my pdf. manual I think I am going to have to remove the diff head and pull the carrier out to get at the bearings etc on the pinion shaft. Is this correct or can it all be accessed from the front? if I am correct how difficult is this process?

faaaarrrr to many vehicles not going at the moment

MULLET

Update:

DIFF FIXED!
bumper shagged.....excuse for a project

Now lately my gearbox has been a bit "clicky" when changing gears.... like the clutch does'nt fully disengage the gear when depressed. I had a look at the clutch slave cylinder/mounting and could not see any way to adjust it.

Am I missing some thing? is there a way of adjusting the take up of these clutches?

Note: 84 surf.....hydraulic clutch