rokhound wrote:How old is that winch Richard? I think it is bullshit when a manufacturer states that their product can handle water and mud immersion, when this is obviously not the case.
It does put a lot of cred in the "keep it inside until you need it" line of thought though I guess.
Bulletproof wrote:
Cheers Richard
. The brush holder should only be about $120-$140. We pulled steves winch apart today to clean it out and found that his winch is the same as ours with regards to the motor and planetarys etc. His motor is cheaper than ours at only $723 compared to $775 the only difference in the motors is that his doesn't have the thermetric parts in it . I doubt if they'd keep his motor in stock though and would probably have to wait till fawkin mid feb for one of them also. 
. Might be easier for you to get say an XD9000 brush holder and end cap beacause i doubt there will be any 9.5ti parts out there unless my motor cannot be repaired which in that case you can have mine 
U-BOAT wrote:Hi Richard have you managed to get a new brush holder assembly for your winch? Flag said to twist their arm as they'll want to sell you a complete motor
Bulletproof wrote: Modified the winch housing with new drains and inspection hole today so will now be able to keep an eye on what is happening internally.
PR wrote:Bulletproof wrote: Modified the winch housing with new drains and inspection hole today so will now be able to keep an eye on what is happening internally.
Photos please and details of installition as I will be striping the winch in the new year for a service and it sounds like a good mod
. How close have you got to driving the next steep bank ?, I would say that by the end of 2009 the track will be driven from the Clark to the Grey 
, then you will have to find another challenge. Keep up the posts I still need inspiration to get the Cruiser cleaned up and out of the garage . SMOKEY wrote:Hi Richard, and happy new year to you and Janet, looks like you had another enjoyable West Coast trip. Has there been some work done to the exit of the Chasm since we all did it last year?, has it consolidated a bit or not as steep now or are people trying a bit harder, maybe you have done a bulk deal on CV's
You have talked on another post about tyres, I reckon you could put a set of half bald road tyres on your old bucket of rattles and it would still (with driver of course) out perform a lot of vehicles. I have a theory on how you get your drive that I want to discuss with you one day, and it's all to do with ,
THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE,
FITZY
I can pull 5th gear in two of my three ranges at 1000rpm, with a 2.7l petrol 4 banger 
, SMOKEY wrote:Hi Richard, I have been down the same track with an electric fan as you are going and I wish you more success than I had.
I removed the standard non viscous fan from the cruiser and fitted a 16" high capacity sucker fan, had a complete radiator shroud made up and wired in a thermo switch that could control the fan with a three way switch, auto/off/manual, spent $500 and on a hill climb the temperature would get to hot. I ended up pulling the whole lot out and fitted a viscous fan off a later model cruiser and can now drive around with the mud skirt covering the radiator and it still doesn't over heat.
I would recommend you fitted the fan temperature switch in your top tank, if you leave it till the fan switches on from the bottom tank heat sink will have set in and you will be fighting to drop the temp; I used a temperature switch from a Honda Civic. If you are going to have the fan switchable for water crossings make sure you have a light and buzzer as warnings that the fan is OFF, I Know all about being forgetful,
AND YOUR OLDER THAN ME
FITZY.
Moriarty wrote:Bill , KB...
Some time back, yes, I am old too....
I was talking to a guy who also had theories about engine temps being too high by default.
His experiments led him to thermal insulation/isolation between the exhaust manifold and the head.
Reasoning that the fire in the water cooled head does not markedly contribute to such high temps, as that pulse of fire is not in there long and all that heat cannot be attributed to friction.
The fire is, however, in the manifold for far longer bits of time, so much so as to be nearly continuous. This heat then leaches back into the head through contact, bolts, etc. DONT shoot me, it's HIS theory!!!!!
Once he had thermal isolation, he had a heating problem again, getting the motor UP to a decent temp.
What he used for that thermal block, I have NOT the faintest idea.
Old brain, forgets stuff easily..... no longer a memory, but a forgettery.....
Interesting ideas, though.....
B
KiwiBacon wrote:Moriarty wrote:Bill , KB...
Some time back, yes, I am old too....
I was talking to a guy who also had theories about engine temps being too high by default.
His experiments led him to thermal insulation/isolation between the exhaust manifold and the head.
Reasoning that the fire in the water cooled head does not markedly contribute to such high temps, as that pulse of fire is not in there long and all that heat cannot be attributed to friction.
The fire is, however, in the manifold for far longer bits of time, so much so as to be nearly continuous. This heat then leaches back into the head through contact, bolts, etc. DONT shoot me, it's HIS theory!!!!!
Once he had thermal isolation, he had a heating problem again, getting the motor UP to a decent temp.
What he used for that thermal block, I have NOT the faintest idea.
Old brain, forgets stuff easily..... no longer a memory, but a forgettery.....
Interesting ideas, though.....
B
Guess that's why some engines use a fibrous matt type exh manifold gasket.
Shame that asbestos stuff turned out to be soo nasty.
