Offroad-Express

For anyone who has the latest Warn 9500 ti thermometric winch, Take note of these photos.

Warn claim these have seals to keep water and shit out. ANYTHING BUT . The LED started flashing on mine as soon as the remote was plugged in so I pulled it to pieces.

Here is what I found.







Not only water but dirt





Thermo switch completely corroded and fell in half





So if you have one of these winches I would recommend you pull it to pieces and clean it out.

Im going to modify mine with breather pipes

Cheers Richard

4wd action had a good 10 winch trail rated for max pull load stall poundage , rope breakage , hook breakage an water imersion test, most failed water test, they reconmmed service if they got submerged

How old is that winch Richard? I think it is bullshit when a manufacturer states that their product can handle water and mud immersion, when this is obviously not the case.
It does put a lot of cred in the "keep it inside until you need it" line of thought though I guess.

Rig up a positive air pressure system to it from ya onboard air to keep the water out, seal it up better with orings and sealant to keep the dirt out

rokhound wrote:How old is that winch Richard? I think it is bullshit when a manufacturer states that their product can handle water and mud immersion, when this is obviously not the case.
It does put a lot of cred in the "keep it inside until you need it" line of thought though I guess.

The winch is a couple of years old.

Here is a picture of the winch in there brochure and there claims.



Cheers Richard

Bulletproof wrote:

Cheers Richard

Don't ya just love the way they say "water resistance" as opposed to "waterproof" In saying that, how long has it been since you had it in bits?

Hi Richard have you managed to get a new brush holder assembly for your winch? Flag said to twist their arm as they'll want to sell you a complete motor . The brush holder should only be about $120-$140. We pulled steves winch apart today to clean it out and found that his winch is the same as ours with regards to the motor and planetarys etc. His motor is cheaper than ours at only $723 compared to $775 the only difference in the motors is that his doesn't have the thermetric parts in it . I doubt if they'd keep his motor in stock though and would probably have to wait till fawkin mid feb for one of them also. . Might be easier for you to get say an XD9000 brush holder and end cap beacause i doubt there will be any 9.5ti parts out there unless my motor cannot be repaired which in that case you can have mine

U-BOAT wrote:Hi Richard have you managed to get a new brush holder assembly for your winch? Flag said to twist their arm as they'll want to sell you a complete motor . The brush holder should only be about $120-$140. We pulled steves winch apart today to clean it out and found that his winch is the same as ours with regards to the motor and planetarys etc. His motor is cheaper than ours at only $723 compared to $775 the only difference in the motors is that his doesn't have the thermetric parts in it . I doubt if they'd keep his motor in stock though and would probably have to wait till fawkin mid feb for one of them also. . Might be easier for you to get say an XD9000 brush holder and end cap beacause i doubt there will be any 9.5ti parts out there unless my motor cannot be repaired which in that case you can have mine

Hi Mark.
Thanks. I Have got a new brush holder coming from CHCH for $61s so hope it is right. They are all supposed to be the same on all the later winches.If I can't get the thermo switch it dosn't matter. After seeing how water proof they are I am going to epoxy the warn hole up and tap a drain hole and fit a plug. On the end cap I am going to fit a breather plug.

Paul and Andi are going to Reefton on the 24th and we are heading over on the 27th so will give you a ring.

If you havn't got a winch, I may be able to borrow a motor from warwick who has a spare one. Let Me Know

Cheers Richard

Might not fit the oil cooler now.

Been doing alot of tests and found the heat shield between the extractors and the oil filter was allowing too much heat transfer. The top of the filter was 140 degrees C ,and the end was 110 degrees so spent the day making a new heat shield and also ducting to take cold air straight to the filter.

The temperatures are now around 110 C at the filter so is now pretty close to 90C which is what it should be. But that reading is before the internal oil cooler so tomorrow I will fit an oil temperature Gauge to see what the oil temperature is going to the big ends and then test properly before fitting the oil cooler.

After our 6 day trip to the West Coast over christmas I should know one way or the other.

Cheer Richard

Fitted the oil temperature gauge today and after a few road tests everything appears normal at this stage. After 20 ks the oil temperature seem to settle at around 88 C which is good so the modified heat shield seems to have done the job. Haven't pushed it up a hill yet.



New thermo switch arrived today for the winch so really good service from Fully Equiped ,so nearly ready for our annual 6 day West coast trip on the 27th. Modified the winch housing with new drains and inspection hole today so will now be able to keep an eye on what is happening internally.

Cheers Richard

Bulletproof wrote: Modified the winch housing with new drains and inspection hole today so will now be able to keep an eye on what is happening internally.

Photos please and details of installition as I will be striping the winch in the new year for a service and it sounds like a good mod

PR wrote:

Bulletproof wrote: Modified the winch housing with new drains and inspection hole today so will now be able to keep an eye on what is happening internally.

Photos please and details of installition as I will be striping the winch in the new year for a service and it sounds like a good mod

I haven't done anything fancy. I siliconed the factory open drain hole up and tapped a quarter inch BSP hole in the bottom of the winch between the field windings. Into this I fitted a plastic irrigation fitting with heat shrink that is squeezed with my fingers. This allows water out but restricts it going up.



Here it is fitted



In the end cover I made a 25mm hole and fitted a blank Grommet from supercheap that I take out after a trip and let the winch breath and dry out.



Cheers Richard

Here is a video clip of myself , Andi delis in the Handbag and Mark Crackett (Uboat) driving out of Bulletproof Chasm on our Xmas trip 2008

Marks Hilux didn't even have diff locks. A 1kz motor with auto and limited slip diff.



Cheers Richard

Hi Richard, and happy new year to you and Janet, looks like you had another enjoyable West Coast trip. Has there been some work done to the exit of the Chasm since we all did it last year?, has it consolidated a bit or not as steep now or are people trying a bit harder, maybe you have done a bulk deal on CV's . How close have you got to driving the next steep bank ?, I would say that by the end of 2009 the track will be driven from the Clark to the Grey , then you will have to find another challenge. Keep up the posts I still need inspiration to get the Cruiser cleaned up and out of the garage .
You have talked on another post about tyres, I reckon you could put a set of half bald road tyres on your old bucket of rattles and it would still (with driver of course) out perform a lot of vehicles. I have a theory on how you get your drive that I want to discuss with you one day, and it's all to do with ,

THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE,

FITZY

SMOKEY wrote:Hi Richard, and happy new year to you and Janet, looks like you had another enjoyable West Coast trip. Has there been some work done to the exit of the Chasm since we all did it last year?, has it consolidated a bit or not as steep now or are people trying a bit harder, maybe you have done a bulk deal on CV's . How close have you got to driving the next steep bank ?, I would say that by the end of 2009 the track will be driven from the Clark to the Grey , then you will have to find another challenge. Keep up the posts I still need inspiration to get the Cruiser cleaned up and out of the garage .
You have talked on another post about tyres, I reckon you could put a set of half bald road tyres on your old bucket of rattles and it would still (with driver of course) out perform a lot of vehicles. I have a theory on how you get your drive that I want to discuss with you one day, and it's all to do with ,

THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE,

FITZY

Hi Fitzy.
Happy new year and hope to catch up sometime.

The Chasm is no easier. It is just having more confidence to drive harder .The first time I tried driving it I was missing a front shock and half way up the truck bounced side ways and I came to a stop above the vertical face which didn't feel very nice. As a result my confidence received a dent. Got over that now.

Actually the track is getting harder and more challenging. The bog section is chewed out now and on the Grey side there are some huge washouts . One hole on the track is 3 metres deep and by the end of 09 the track may not exist. 3 sections have already gone.
I will post some video.

Cheers Richard

Just to show that the Bulletproof chasm track is not getting easier .

Here is a section of the bogs in the bush beside the chasm that shows how deep the ruts are getting.

This video was taken on 28th dec 08



Cheers Richard

Some photos of our trip last weekend with Jafa







Tree came off best




This is the point of balance for the Hilux. Not articulating at all and everytime Steven Crackett moved it was trying to roll so we had to sit at 45 degrees until Jafa attached a rope. You can only see Stevens arm as he trys to lean to the right.

On the Chasm track last weekend .I was demonstrating articulation and the left front wheel dropped in a hole.





Cheers Richard

This is the other half of my Hilux. A well setup shed of recovery gear and a choice of 35s depending on the trip.

50 metre rope
20 metre rope
7 metre rope
2 pulley blocks
tree protector
Extension Wire rope for winch
5 D shackles
Hi-lift jack wheel lifter
Ground Anchor
Set of Chains



Cheers Richard

And you will probably need most of that for Costa Plenty on Queens Birthday weekend.

Since I fitted the supercharger, no hilux clutch could handle the power so I fitted an after market clutch and pressure plate that had double the pressure as a std one.

Haven't had slippage since, but have had problems changing gear because it would never disengage properly. Instructions with the clutch said I may need to strengthen the fire wall to stop it cracking but this has never been a problem.

Last weekend I made an important discovery as to why it hasn't been working properly.

The genuine Toyota master cylinder has a rubber buffer fitted next to the pedal. Because of the extra pressure on the after market clutch the whole rod to the master cylinder has been flexing sideways instead of pushing the clutch therefore making it hard to change gear.

I have removed the rubber completely and fitted a steel block and it now works perfectly.



On a another point regarding Torque,I took Andy with me when I showed Jafa petrol hill . Andy has a 1KZ with intercooler and made the comment that my 5l has miles more torque than his 1kz. He said there is no way he can pull 3rd or 4th gear at 1000rpm.

cheers Richard

Ya just need ratios's I can pull 5th gear in two of my three ranges at 1000rpm, with a 2.7l petrol 4 banger

Latest Mod coming along nicely

Decided to fit an electric Radiator Fan. Been running for a while with no fan but on a long hill like the spooners range the water temperature has been climbing to about 97C on a 30 C day which means my engine oil temperature has gone to 110 C.

With my laser gun the bottom of the Radiator was about 84C.

Bought a 16inch Fan and a 85-80C bottom radiator switch which hopefully will lower the oil temperature to the 90s C.

Got the fan fitted today





Pick up the switch tomorrow and hopefully test on the weekend.

Cheers Richard

Hi Richard, I have been down the same track with an electric fan as you are going and I wish you more success than I had.
I removed the standard non viscous fan from the cruiser and fitted a 16" high capacity sucker fan, had a complete radiator shroud made up and wired in a thermo switch that could control the fan with a three way switch, auto/off/manual, spent $500 and on a hill climb the temperature would get to hot. I ended up pulling the whole lot out and fitted a viscous fan off a later model cruiser and can now drive around with the mud skirt covering the radiator and it still doesn't over heat.
I would recommend you fitted the fan temperature switch in your top tank, if you leave it till the fan switches on from the bottom tank heat sink will have set in and you will be fighting to drop the temp; I used a temperature switch from a Honda Civic. If you are going to have the fan switchable for water crossings make sure you have a light and buzzer as warnings that the fan is OFF, I Know all about being forgetful,

AND YOUR OLDER THAN ME ,

FITZY.

SMOKEY wrote:Hi Richard, I have been down the same track with an electric fan as you are going and I wish you more success than I had.
I removed the standard non viscous fan from the cruiser and fitted a 16" high capacity sucker fan, had a complete radiator shroud made up and wired in a thermo switch that could control the fan with a three way switch, auto/off/manual, spent $500 and on a hill climb the temperature would get to hot. I ended up pulling the whole lot out and fitted a viscous fan off a later model cruiser and can now drive around with the mud skirt covering the radiator and it still doesn't over heat.
I would recommend you fitted the fan temperature switch in your top tank, if you leave it till the fan switches on from the bottom tank heat sink will have set in and you will be fighting to drop the temp; I used a temperature switch from a Honda Civic. If you are going to have the fan switchable for water crossings make sure you have a light and buzzer as warnings that the fan is OFF, I Know all about being forgetful,

AND YOUR OLDER THAN ME ,

FITZY.

Hi Fitzy
Thanks for your thoughts. I have done a lot of research and found nearly all cars work in the 92-87 C range which I believe is too high.
I had a look through 4 pages of fan switches and there are 2 that operate 65-55 C range and 2 that are 85-80C, the rest are in the 95-85C range.

I think the 65-55 would result in the oil temperature being too low, so thats why I am going to test with the 85-80C one.

After driving without a fan I think it will only operate only about 5% of the time, so that is why I can't see why the motor needs to be using power to drive a viscous all the time.

Does my age show that much. It must be Janet.

Cheers Richard

Are you making up a shroud for that fan?
Without one it'll just circulate air and not pull much through the radiator.

In my expereince those fans don't suck enough air, at least for a 2JZ. I ended up with a commodore VN Fan pushing air through, using a bit of electronics from Anything Electrical in Nelson to control it. I then have an auto/off/on switch. When I think the motor is likely to get hot, ie hill climbs, slow pulls etc, I turn it on before the motor gets hot and the gauge doesn't even move. I can pretty much keep the motor at red line with it just staying 'warm' now. I have the aluminuim sheet to make a shroud, but haven't got round to it yet.

Bill , KB...

Some time back, yes, I am old too....
I was talking to a guy who also had theories about engine temps being too high by default.

His experiments led him to thermal insulation/isolation between the exhaust manifold and the head.
Reasoning that the fire in the water cooled head does not markedly contribute to such high temps, as that pulse of fire is not in there long and all that heat cannot be attributed to friction.
The fire is, however, in the manifold for far longer bits of time, so much so as to be nearly continuous. This heat then leaches back into the head through contact, bolts, etc. DONT shoot me, it's HIS theory!!!!!
Once he had thermal isolation, he had a heating problem again, getting the motor UP to a decent temp.

What he used for that thermal block, I have NOT the faintest idea.

Old brain, forgets stuff easily..... no longer a memory, but a forgettery.....

Interesting ideas, though.....

B

Fans are an interesting topic. I started with one 16" repco fan and it was always getting hot, went to two and it was alot better, but still on redline it would heat up quickly. Have now gone to a Davis Craig fan which pushs through alot more air.

I agree with Bill to the VN commy fans are brillant and i tried one but it didnt fit.

N

Moriarty wrote:Bill , KB...

Some time back, yes, I am old too....
I was talking to a guy who also had theories about engine temps being too high by default.

His experiments led him to thermal insulation/isolation between the exhaust manifold and the head.
Reasoning that the fire in the water cooled head does not markedly contribute to such high temps, as that pulse of fire is not in there long and all that heat cannot be attributed to friction.
The fire is, however, in the manifold for far longer bits of time, so much so as to be nearly continuous. This heat then leaches back into the head through contact, bolts, etc. DONT shoot me, it's HIS theory!!!!!
Once he had thermal isolation, he had a heating problem again, getting the motor UP to a decent temp.

What he used for that thermal block, I have NOT the faintest idea.

Old brain, forgets stuff easily..... no longer a memory, but a forgettery.....

Interesting ideas, though.....

B

Guess that's why some engines use a fibrous matt type exh manifold gasket.
Shame that asbestos stuff turned out to be soo nasty.

KiwiBacon wrote:

Moriarty wrote:Bill , KB...

Some time back, yes, I am old too....
I was talking to a guy who also had theories about engine temps being too high by default.

His experiments led him to thermal insulation/isolation between the exhaust manifold and the head.
Reasoning that the fire in the water cooled head does not markedly contribute to such high temps, as that pulse of fire is not in there long and all that heat cannot be attributed to friction.
The fire is, however, in the manifold for far longer bits of time, so much so as to be nearly continuous. This heat then leaches back into the head through contact, bolts, etc. DONT shoot me, it's HIS theory!!!!!
Once he had thermal isolation, he had a heating problem again, getting the motor UP to a decent temp.

What he used for that thermal block, I have NOT the faintest idea.

Old brain, forgets stuff easily..... no longer a memory, but a forgettery.....

Interesting ideas, though.....

B

Guess that's why some engines use a fibrous matt type exh manifold gasket.
Shame that asbestos stuff turned out to be soo nasty.

the feller in didnt mention was using some block of stuff about 25mm thick