Offroad-Express

one of the advantages of a long wheel base is the stability on steep hills.

The 100 ft high bank on the tailings track is an example. Here is a picture of Flag and myself discussing where to put our wheels before we drive it for the 1st time.



At this stage none of the stumps and roots had been removed to make it easy and even to this day over half the people who do this track winch down.

Here is a video as we test it for the 1st time.



bulletproof

seen youre truck parked on main rd hope heaps mate(finally clicked)yup ya use it!
i drive for drummonds so allways goin past...
anyway what is the tare weight richard? cheers

I started this thread a while ago

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=10840

a lot of good ideas but no one had done it.

BUT YOU HAVE

could ya em me some detail pics of ya pipe layout, the dual intake system, SC mounting, any thing else brillant you have done!

Did you modify the engine internally in any way, how did you modify the inj pump

any and all info appreciated as if I do follow in your path, I would rather no toast a $4000 engine

ps you truck is amazing and the mods you have done are excellent. Every time I get an EM on this thread, I rush in to see what you are revealing next. Brillant

cheers
Dave.
dbwracing@yahoo.co.nz

Found the vid I was looking for. Check out Turoa driving at the 2.42 mark. Very well done.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/node/434

rokhound wrote:Found the vid I was looking for. Check out Turoa driving at the 2.42 mark. Very well done.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/node/434

That was awesome and impressive . Even Janet was blown away by the brilliant footage. Was it out toward Arthurs Pass ?

My wheel travel is no way capable of that sort of rock climbing.

Cheer Richard

cool truck rokhound!
looks like some good ol southern alps scenery?

BIGK wrote:seen youre truck parked on main rd hope heaps mate(finally clicked)yup ya use it!
i drive for drummonds so allways goin past...
anyway what is the tare weight richard? cheers

I dont know what the tare weight is. Equiped with tools and complete recovery gear is nearly 2100.

Feel free to call in in you want.

Richard

cool might do,cheers mate
i allways thought you were a logger because of the battle scars..
theres a guy up wakefeild who had a mq patrol & lime green fj40,friends of youres i take it?

DBWRacing wrote:I started this thread a while ago

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=10840

a lot of good ideas but no one had done it.

BUT YOU HAVE

could ya em me some detail pics of ya pipe layout, the dual intake system, SC mounting, any thing else brillant you have done!

Did you modify the engine internally in any way, how did you modify the inj pump

cheers
Dave.
dbwracing@yahoo.co.nz

On pages 1 and 3 of this thread there are plumbing pictures.
The engine has not been modified internally but because it does not have the extra oil holes that most turboed trucks have to give extra oil to the gudgen and pistons I change the oil every 4000ks.
I have now done nearly 40000 k since putting the charger on . Compressions and oil Pressure still like new and the oil still clear after 2000 ks
The injector Pump has the top of a 2lt fitted to give the diesel boost and I am running extractors.

cheers Richard

A small video clip from QB to show the increased torque that a super charger gives at low revs while towing.



Bulletproof

Bulletproof wrote:

rokhound wrote:Found the vid I was looking for. Check out Turoa driving at the 2.42 mark. Very well done.

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/node/434

That was awesome and impressive . Even Janet was blown away by the brilliant footage. Was it out toward Arthurs Pass ?

My wheel travel is no way capable of that sort of rock climbing.

Cheer Richard

Nope. It was up the Avoca valley about 200m from the avoca hut. We have a friendly station run manager that gains us access. All the vid was of Suprasurfs old truck ( as he was taking the video) but there were 5 of us in there.

A video clip of the first club trip oct 06 through Tailings to Costello Hill.
It had been raining most of the day. We got 2 trucks across the Little Totara and it rose from 2 ft to 4 ft in about 10 mins, so we had to leave the rest in there for the night.
We made a flying fox up by tying a winch wire across the river and using a pulley and a tree protector to sit in.
We then got everyone across but we had to cross the same river again to get out. We only had the 2 trucks on the other side, my hilux and Chris Hollis's cruiser so they were loaded to the max.

Janet now films from the back seat of the cruiser.



bulletproof

Another mod worth doing for any one with a solid axle hilux or cruiser is to put a grease nipple in the top of the king pin arms.
Off roading you always get water into swivel hubs and the top king pin bearing goes rusty and dry. A pump of grease every grease solves this problem.



I have hack-sawed a groove to spread the grease



cheers Richard

Thats serious 4 wheeln when you have to make a flying fox to get everyone out.

People have asked about the name "BULLETPROOF"

This how it started. In 1996 we had just won the Enduro as Fitzy would remember and Andrew Satherly (SAV), Joe McDowel and my self were playing beside the Wairau River.

There was a channel there about 6ft deep and I said "I should be able to float to the other side and drive out"

SAV used the name Bulletproof for 1st time as the video shows and it has stuck ever since.




Bulletproof

Bulletproof wrote:Another mod worth doing for any one with a solid axle hilux or cruiser is to put a grease nipple in the top of the king pin arms.
Off roading you always get water into swivel hubs and the top king pin bearing goes rusty and dry. A pump of grease every grease solves this problem.



I have hack-sawed a groove to spread the grease



cheers Richard

I like that mod Richard, very cool . The other place to look at putting a grease nipple is in the hub itself so all the wheel bearing cavity can be filled with grease, (if it's full of grease, there is no room for water). Some will argue that this will cause the bearings to overheat, and if you drive at 160kph for long periods, I'm sure it will. But mine is a 4wd, not a Fendalton tractor, and is never likely to be driven at constant high speeds.

Don't want to hijack your thread Bulletproof , but I have another mod for those arms as well. It is only useful if (like me) you have had issues with the retaining bolts and cones washers coming loose. I'll post pics here if you want to have a looksee.

I'm going to have my hubs appart soon. I think I'll put grease nipples in the arms while they are off.

rokhound wrote:
Don't want to hijack your thread Bulletproof , but I have another mod for those arms as well. It is only useful if (like me) you have had issues with the retaining bolts and cones washers coming loose. I'll post pics here if you want to have a looksee.

Yes I would like to see it if you have any pics. Always on the look out for new ideas

Cheers Richard

First of all, I built up the swivel housing to make one big flat surface,




Then added some extra 12mm plate to the side of the arms. After all was together, I drilled and tapped a thread through the whole unit in one go




Then put in some grade 8 cap screws. These do up from inside the swivel housing, and then have a std cone washer and nut on top as per all the other studs. (the nut in the pic is obviously not the permanent one).



According to those engineering types in the US, it makes the studs about 40% more effecient. Running the tyres that I do, I used to have problems with the studs coming loose (very loose), but since doing this, the only loose nut is still the one behind the wheel.

rokhound wrote:
According to those engineering types in the US, it makes the studs about 40% more effecient. Running the tyres that I do, I used to have problems with the studs coming loose (very loose), but since doing this, the only loose nut is still the one behind the wheel.

Are you running superswampers ?
The reason I ask this is, 5 years ago I ran superswampers and every day without fail all the bolts would come loose in the steering arm even though the cones and everything was done to correct torque settings. Since then I have been running simex extreme treekers and have not had this problem, never once have they loosened at all.

What you have done looks good because there was no way I could keep those bolts tight.
Richard

Yep I am. Never had a problem with 36's, but since I stepped up the size, they have been a real bitch. And the truck never gets driven on the road. Interesting that the Simexs have never given you trouble. We have tried the simexs in our terrain, but the compound just isn't right for climbing rocks with (especially when they are wet).

One of the best mods I have ever made is protection for the rear lights. Over the last 10 years I haven't broken one light even with serious bush bashing.

Side view


In this picture you will see I have used 12mm rods around the lights welded to 30x5mm down the side. This is doweled through the double skin of the body with 12mm rod and stops it being ripped off. The back end has 16x16 section steel .

To hold them on I have used 4mm stainless screws which make it easy to change light bulbs. All the strength is in the dowels.

Back view



cheers Richard

Hows the front coil spring mod working out?
Has it changed the off road performance much?Surely it must go better with those Nissan parts on board ...
Do you think it would have anymore travel?

Shane

Shane wrote:Hows the front coil spring mod working out?
Has it changed the off road performance much?Surely it must go better with those Nissan parts on board ...
Do you think it would have anymore travel?

Shane

It is a totally different truck to ride in now . Janet can now video as we drive along because of the soft ride. In river beds you hardly know the stones are there.

The wheel travel is slightly improved even though I haven't put it on a ramp to measure it. Before I had about 600mm but wheel travel with diff locks is not that important unless you are rock climbing etc.

over the years I have never failed on petrol hill at reefton. At anzac weekend 2008 with 25 lbs in the tyres I couldnt get up with the coils and looking at the video the front suspension seemed to be bouncing on the rock a bit so was losing traction.
Im sure I would have got up on the leaf springs with that pressure.
I let the tyres down to 18lbs and drove up as if the hill wasnt there.

That being said I would not go back to the leaf springs as over all it is performing alot better

Cheers Richard

rokhound wrote:

Dang Grant, thats a FAST red swivel housing!!

Jafa wrote:

rokhound wrote:

Dang Grant, thats a FAST red swivel housing!!

you left out the best photo rok

CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!CTR!

On the forum I have noticed quite a few people putting solid hilux diffs in surfs. I have also noticed others putting gussets on the hilux diffs to strengthen them.

In my hilux I have used a 1992 70 series Landcruiser front diff which I believe is far superior.

What are the advantages

1 Square box section design for strength
2 Plate steel around the nugget housing is alot thicker and will take a lot more punishment from rocks
3 CVs are a lot stronger with the beafed up edge
4 High pinion which is a lot stonger because crown wheel is ground the right way round
5 High pinion gives a lot straighter front drive shaft
6 High pinion keeps universal out of shit more
7 Carrier has bigger bearings
8 Pinion has bigger bearings
9 Still has the 8inch diff
So I think a cruiser diff wins every time and cant think of any advantage in having a hilux one


cheers Richard

Bulletproof wrote:On the forum I have noticed quite a few people putting solid hilux diffs in surfs. I have also noticed others putting gussets on the hilux diffs to strengthen them.

In my hilux I have used a 1992 70 series Landcruiser front diff which I believe is far superior.

What are the advantages

1 Square box section design for strength
2 Plate steel around the nugget housing is alot thicker and will take a lot more punishment from rocks
3 CVs are a lot stronger with the beafed up edge
4 High pinion which is a lot stonger because crown wheel is ground the right way round
5 High pinion gives a lot straighter front drive shaft
6 High pinion keeps universal out of shit more
7 Carrier has bigger bearings
8 Pinion has bigger bearings
9 Still has the 8inch diff
So I think a cruiser diff wins every time and cant think of any advantage in having a hilux one


cheers Richard

That is an interesting statement. Are you sure you mean 70 series? or Prado/80 series axle?
Yes, box section is stronger, but not as strong as the std tube design with box strengthening.
Nugget housing, a lot thicker? Yes it is a wee bit thicker, but IMHO you still need some armour over it.
No argument on C V's. But with 30 spline longfields, there is NO std axle on commonly available trucks that is as strong.
Diff head with high pinion is definitely a bonus.
I have the later model LN130 diff heads in my wreck which are the US V6 carrier. Not sure on actuals, but I think bearing sets are the same.

The major point of using Hilux bits is that the parts (if required) are everywhere and relatively cheap. It is also very easy to alter ratio's, because of the availability on std diff ratios that range from 4.1 to 5.29.
My argument would be that for the amount of work (and cash) required to graft in an 80 series axle, you could still build a stronger Hilux setup.
But the usefulness of the high pinion setup cannot be overlooked, and for that reason alone, if you get one cheap enough, it is worth looking at.

My 2c worth anyway.
Keep it coming Bulletproof, I do like this thread.

Prado's have a round housing like a Hilux and 80 series is square like the 70.... Well the Prado one I have is round. The common parts with Prado and 80 is the HP diff as far as I'm aware.