A Classic is Reborn

[NJV6]

Yea but whats wrong with ya winch!!!

[DieselBoy]

Oh yes, the winch.

I have posted on a couple of other threads about my issues with my Runva GEW10,000.

It started life on the front of the 80 series.

First time i tested it out in the paddock, the clutch let go and the whole drum unspooled into a giant birds nest

thinking i mustn't have locked it in properly, i shrugged it off.

The next time i used it in anger theclutch let go a futher three or four times and we had to give up using it.

I was supplied another gearbox/clutch and it fixed that problem.

I put the new gearbox on and went to spool the rope onto the drum, the motor went briefly and stopped. Pulled it all out of the truck again and stipped it down again, turned out one of the brush holders on the motor had let go.

I was supplied another motor.

Next time i used it i was pulling a vehicle out of a bog using a block off a tree. the winch was working fine pulling the vehicle out of the hole, untill i stopped winching, and then it unspooled by its self and the vehicle ended up sliding straight back into the bog. So the brake had stopped working.

So since i got the winch, every single time i have gone to use it when i really needed it, it has crapped out. So i brought a factory Toyota winch for the 80 series and chucked the Runva in the shed.

I decided i would try the Runva on the Guts as it was a lighter vehicle, so stripped it all down, made sure the vrakeon the drum was spotlessly clean, did a bit of water proofing work on it and threw it onto the Guts.

So despite the fact everything in the drum is mint, the brake is still not working.

I have been incontact with the supplier and he is looking into replacing the whole winch for me. He has been bloody good with his support.

The sth island guys seem to have had a good run out of them, so perhaps i just got a dud, because it certainly hasn't been used hard

[DieselBoy]

Progress on the intake

Old manifold off:


Some freaky EGR stuff under there, and its fawkin heavy!!!!!!


All rugged up to keep out the dust:


Leaves a big gaping hole into the engine. At least its all nice and clean in there!!!!


So besides a temp sensor that needs removing from the new manifold as its in the way of the alternator, and its unfortunatly well and truly siezed in, its all set to go.

[NJV6]

The reason I asked about the winch is in your photos you have the rope spooling over the drum as opposed to under the drum.

Factory Toyota (aisin) ones go over but I thought Runva ones went under as shown on their website. You've had it all apart so know how it works better than me but if it was meant to be under, could this explain the brake and some electrical issues?

Glen

[DieselBoy]

Very observant!!!!!

The reason it spools from the top is that i had to mount the winch backwards, so that the motor was on the left hand side of the vehicle and the gear box on the right.

I had to mount it that way round as the power steering box sits out the front, and if i had mounted the correct way round the drum would have been miles off the center of the vehicle.

You sort of see it here, photo's a bit dark though:


All it means is that the clutch leaver is betwen the grill and the winch, the rope spools from the top, and there is a different kind of loading on the feet of the winch where it mounts to the chassis.

"In" is still in and "Out" is still out, so its not working against the brake while winching or anything like that.

[DieselBoy]

Its in and running

Had a bit of drama with the dizzy, the oil pump drive must have moved as i pulled the dizzy out, i played with it to much, lost my place with TDC 1,so had to go through the painfull process of re-timing it

Once that was sorted it fired up and the dizzy was a tooth out still. 3rd time lucky, and it was purring like a kitten.

Dodgied up an accelerator bracket, made a few new hoses outa stuff i had in random box's and took it for a rip round the paddocks. Was going like a cut cat, so pointed it at a hill, purposely lost traction and gave it everythin it had, it reved, then coughed and pluttered and back fired untill i backed off the throttle, then it ran fine again.

First thought that came to mind was "bugger, this set up was supposed to flow enough gas to run the motor fine, WTF??" I presumed it was starving, i.e getting heaps of air, but the setup was still not flowing enough gas. An Impco "L" series vapouriser came with the mixer, and i had left that in the box and was just gonna use the Impco "E" series vapouriser that i was currently running. I didn't know anything about the flow rates of either vapouriser, but guessed that the "L" must flow more than the "E".

I made some enquires, surfed the net and found out that the Impco CA300a Mixer and E series vapouriser will fuel a 500ci big block. Also that and the E series vapouriser flows 25% better/more than the L series.

Based on that, i should be getting fark loads of fuel.

Tonight i checked for vacum leaks, made sure everything was sweet and took for a strop again. Sez just happened to be looking out the window as i was sitting in the drive with my foot up it and it was coughing and spluttering etc. She pointed out the giant flames erupting out the exhausts.

Thats when it tweaked

This set up will flow far more gas than my little baby V8 could ever burn.

The problem wasn't that it wasn't getting enough propane.

The problem was that all it was getting was propane.

And that was igniting in the exhaust because there was more air in the exhaust than there was in the combustion chambers.

Shot into the garage, grabbed a pair of pliers and backed the power valve off to its leanest setting. Took it for another strop accross the recently cut silage paddock and

WOOOOOOO WHOOOOOOO full throttle 2nd high 4wd powerslides accross the length of the paddock with the 35" silverstones

Now thats more like it

I decided to see if i could tweak fuel up a bit more. I moved the powervalve up to its mid setting. I think it went ok for a couple of minutes.

Then i ran the bloody thing out gas. To much full throttle running

Anyways, enough rambling, heres the finished result. Bonnet didn't need a new scoop, so i have a brand new A9X scoop goin cheap if anyone wants one

Before:


After:

[MNC]

Looking Good DB. Reckon you might need to change your signature line now as anyone who doesn't know about the 50 may get the wrong idea since you got ol' Thunderguts

[DieselBoy]

As posted in the Weekends achievements, we did a fun Trial on Sat with the Waikato club.



Thunderguts met one of it's 5 sister trucks:


Then fell apart on us deep in the bush on Sunday. Must have driven it to hard the day before....



What you are looking at is the front top radius mount to the diff. Its ripped right off. In the trucks defence, it looks like it has been broken for a while, and then it finally decided to let go.

When it broke, the whole diff rotated, and i lost the steering and the front UJ bound up. I had to wrap the winch cable around the diff and pull it all down onto the bump stops to get it mobile-ish, then drove out in 2wd with limited steering so the wheel brakes

Steep slippery clay down hills with bugger all steering in 2wd are fawken scary!!!!!!

Anyways, been busy fixing it. Roped in my mate Dan (TheGeneralMud) as he's a certified electric glue gun operator



I decided it needed some serious bracing, this is one side:


Then glued this bit to that bit,

and sorta held that up there somewhere.......

did some more glueing..........

some more grinding..................


and it ended up like this.......



and some instablingto finish it off.


Now the fun bit, testing

[DieselBoy]

In an effort to get the truck ready to enter the Club Class in Winch Challenges, i got my Tin Top sorted yesterday.

Its 3mm Alloy Chequer Plate stretched into place and held to the cage with Tex screws.

Makes the truck look strange, but in a kool kinda way, as its pretty strange looking to start with







Next on the list is to upgrade the EWX12,000 winch to something more reliable

[gimmemud]

The 50 looks so sad out the back on its own Looks like it's spying on you playing with thunderguts

[DieselBoy]

Had to make some doors to comply with some random rule in the winch challenge book

Ever seen a MB Jeep (wanna-be) with half doors





Some very simple door catch's. Went with this idea as it means you can let the door swing shut under it's own weight rather than having to wrestle with a bolt or opperate the handle to lock it closed. They shouldn't rattle to bad s i managed to get a everything fitting snug






Will get some better pic's once i have my wheels and suspension back and i can move it outa the shed

[xj]

Been a while since there was an update Pete... anything else done to it???

[vvega]

farken cool truck there DB

[DieselBoy]

Been a while since there was an update Pete... anything else done to it???

Ummm, not really since the intake upgrade.

Actually, i swapped the welded diff out for a lockright, but thats nothing exciting.

There's a few more things on the go at the moment though, will update as it progresses

[DieselBoy]

Fiiiinaly got some parts back after a week or so of waiting around

Not all as good as it sounds though, the starter motor that got sent was for a large ring gear, not the small one, so that was no good, the suspension ball joints showed up after being overhauled only to arrive back with no rubber boots on them. WTF????

But my rims are done and they are PHAT!!!!!!!

There where the widest offset 15 x8's, but were still not offset enough, the front tyres rubbed on the control arms and the rear tyres rubbed on the inner gaurds, plus the rear tyres were inside the gaurds which we all know is no good for your panel work

I tried my 15x10's on it, that worked well in terms of how far out side the gaurds they sat, but the extra 25mm on the inside edge made the tyres rub even worse!!!!

I got the rims set up with a 50mm back spacing so my disc's still have some protection from rocks. I could have gone wider, but the disc's would have been floating out in mid air

I slapped it to gether with the dodgy starter so i could move it out of the shed and finally get some decent pic's with the doors on and the modified rims





And to show the offset i got set up on the rims:

[MNC]

Lookin good Any thoughts of moving that rear diff back at all?

[wopass]

Lookin good Any thoughts of moving that rear diff back at all?

YEA!!! CHOP IT!!!!

CHOP IT
CHOP IT
CHOP IT

[DieselBoy]

Nah, to much work

It fits 35's, and the departure angle is pretty bloody good and the wheel base is spot on, it's deceptive as the front axle is along way forward

But ya never know what might happen when it gets it's new axles

[mercutio]

Nah, to much work

It fits 35's, and the departure angle is pretty bloody good and the wheel base is spot on, it's deceptive as the front axle is along way forward

But ya never know what might happen when it gets it's new axles

new axles ???
what type of new axles??

[DieselBoy]

Dunno, i really don't know.

I brought it with the intention of slipping GQ axles under it as i have spares for GQ axles coming out my ears , but the central rear diff head creats problems. I was going to throw Ben's 60 series housings under, then decided that was to much hard work as I would have to set up all the spring purches and radius arm mounts etc.

I have been wondering about prado axles, but they are hard to come by.

Seeing as its got an FJ40 rear axle, i might throw a front 40 axle under it, as i can get longfields for it etc, then redo the rear end with some proper radius arms instead of the home made ones that have delt with 20 odd years of abuse

The worst part of it all, is that despite how it looks (bits and pieces welded together here and there), everything under there is in really good condition and has been tried and tested and its strength and operation proven. It rides and handles nicely (it used to be road legal ) it's just not how stuff gets built these days.

I do have a slight wheel shimmy problem though, it looks like the front diff is rotated back a fair bit, but i would have thought that would have been beneficial to stopping shimmy. I set it up toe'd out slightly the other day but that didn't do much. Its quite cool as the caster is adjustable on the top link.

Anyways...................

[DieselBoy]

I made the call, and have decided to run with the electric winch.

That means changes to the elctrical stuff, and the adition of some kool shit

Finding the stuff i wanted for the right price was realy stretching the limits of who i knew and who's name's could drop to get even a half decent price

Threw in a lockable tool box and a extra battery box. Space is tight in the deck, so i had to mount them as close to the seats as possible so i could still squeeze my spare 40L LPG bottle in. Also happens the the floor of the deck slopes away at that point as well, so some creatice bracketry had to be made
It works though


I have been having some electrical issues, mainly when starting. Figured it must be starter related. Starter is tired, but checked out to be working fine at the moment. Figured it could be the ignition switch after i fried it when i trapped the main power feed to the dizzy between the block and the bellhousing, so replaced that and hey presto, starting gremlins gone. But that didn't explain the fact that after using the winch for a while, the winch would stop and drain all the power and stall the truck, and the truck wouldn't even turn over. Give it a few minutes, and it would turn over and fire up as if there was never a problem. All the while reading a steady 13V on the volt meter.

A bit of carefull thinking, and i came up with the theory that my battery isolator could be acting like a bottleneck...

Sure enough:


Seemed it was getting hot and arking out and melting, which was causing the problems.

Problem fixed with a proper terminal, gonna miss the ease of having the isolator though.



Just a quick look at the battery cable i am running Curtisy or a good mate , and i have juuuuust enough left to plum in the extra battery


Think its something like 2000kva.....

Seeing as i am going to have two big batteries, i'm gonna need something to charge them, so hit up another "aquainatance" and managed to score a 120Amp alt with internal reg that bolts straight on in place of the old Delco-Remmy 40Amp alt.
Old:

New:


Theres a bit of shagging around with wireing to fit the internally reg'd alt in place of the old externally reg'd alt, more just stripping out the old wiring and reg thais now redundant.

Got some phat 18mm wire to feed the power from the Alt to the battery


Also had the rear suspension ball joints rebuilt and as i said in a earlier post they showed up with no rubber boots on them. Have been waiting all week for te to show up, and the didn;t, so went down and bludged a couple of universal steering rack boots out of the place that did the rebuild and made my own boots. Shud work ok for a while

[lilpigzuk]

Just quietly pete, whens the diagonal brace going in? or have I misses that discussion?

[DieselBoy]

Thats in a couple of updates time

[Dr_PC]

Thats in a couple of updates time

Man have YOU SCREWED UP.
I was at that last Laurie Sanson and I very clearly heard that you were going to have a hydralic winch...........or are you getting a new winch binch

[DieselBoy]

Anyone know of anyone with in a few hours drive of the Waikato that is selling a complete Landcruiser 70 series 9" front diff???

All the good one's have been in the sth Island or way down in wellington, and shipping on a complete diff ain't cheap!!!!!!!

I would even take a FJ/BJ40 front axle but would also need the parts to do a disc conversion.

I need one for the next progression to happen

Any thing out there????

There's gotta be

[sig]

ive got the disc stuff if you need it $200

[DieselBoy]

Cheers Sig, what series cruiser are the parts from????

In that case i will go on a hunt and see if i can find a FJ40 front end cheap locally

Anyone got a lead on a cheap Fj40 front end suitable for a rebuild ????

[DieselBoy]

Kool, i got me a plan.

I'll grab your disc conversion parts Sig.

I have found a bare FJ40 housing for $50.

I should be able to throw my 80 series rear LSD diff head into the housing, fit Sig's disc parts, and then grab some standard CV's and Axles to get it mobile while i wait for some Cromolly stuff to turn up.

PM coming Sig, cheers

[mudzilla]

I"ve got some 40's Hub bits in the parts shed you can have if your missing anything.. Also a E/locker for your rear,, No elec part but it could be converted to opperate on air..

[Sadam_Husain]

Kool, i got me a plan.

I'll grab your disc conversion parts Sig.

I have found a bare FJ40 housing for $50.

I should be able to throw my 80 series rear LSD diff head into the housing, fit Sig's disc parts, and then grab some standard CV's and Axles to get it mobile while i wait for some Cromolly stuff to turn up.

PM coming Sig, cheers

I've got a couple of spare front axles (without cv's ) you can have, can throw them in with with disc stuff Sigs sending you if you want?