Offroad-Express

yep got those.
so by extending bumpstops you are creating a limit at a point where steering gear still clears at full up travel...
so when you HAVE to raise it to clear steering gear is it more so to gain more up travel??
because regardless of how high or low it is its still going to flex to the same point.. the bumpstops?????

sort of but only when both front wheels are travelling up and down at the same time.......don't forget when your truck is flexing things change...... the bump stops are a fair way inside the wheel which is the point of artic, so the up travel doesn't stop at bumpstop but is only limited by down travel on opposite side of uptravel with the bump stop acting as a "pivot point"
lots to think about

ah huh, good bit of info there, never thought about the fact that with the bumpstops being inside the wheel a fair bit thats its just a pivot point, the wheel will still move up when the other side drops..
so im thinking im best to get the engine mounted first before i do the high steer as the weight of the engine will affect the height..
all fun and games
cheers, always good to get info from ya

bit of progress today, nothing accomplished as such but got engine into bay and on mounts and spent about an hour going over things with the the engineer to discuss whats gota be modded and how.. few pics

once the sump is reversed there will be plenty of clearance, the depth of the sump is about 8 inches.. so plenty to work with, need to mod the passenger mount as it was designed to go down under the a/c pump, so i will be raising it and eliminating the a/c

view side on showing that once the sump is reversed it will bring the forward edge of the sump, where steering is. up above the chassis line

going to fit fuel tank here, to remove from factory position cause it hangs so low and to put more weight over rear axle


biggest issue we found was steering box clearance.. by sitting it as far forward as possible its only giving me just enough clearnce for tie rod and drag link.. not sure how others have worked around this???????

Are you going to set the tank down into the deck or just have it sitting on it?

sitting on it me thinks

small work done.
picked up wide rear axle and cleaned that up/painted it, ready to go in..
half fitted transfer brake, bloody tight unit, definately recommend if your having handbrake issues..
need to buy a big socket to remove transfer/driveshaft flange, to then fit brake rotor..
are these just a matter of undoing the bolt and it slides out????????

and just waiting on the new engine mount to be fabbed up then motor can be finally set in place

30mm from memory

good to see progress mate,are you hiring that engine lifter?did you want to borrow one mate?save you some coin,and good to see progress,shouldn't be long now

bit of progress
engine mounts all done n dusted thanks to muddyhilux.
painted, just got to sort clutch master and get the clutch operating right n make sure I have enough clutch movement before bolting motor in for good

finsihed fitting up transfer brake. nice unit

mate picked up the cherokee fuel tank, and im stoked with how it looks and how it fits, 80lts sitting right over the rear axle instead of drivers side.





Mark Stokes has been over and gave me the go ahead on everything, which is awesome, next time I see him he will be signing everything off.
next weekend will drop motor in then its down to getting the thing wired up and started

good work mate,that tank looks tidy ,i bet your happy,go hard mate and she'l be ready in no time ae

new work space
now things should get moving along, at a mates pad, where hes willing to lend plenty a hand

bloody hell mate,you told me you were moving into a big shed,guess ya forgot to mention it looks more like a new surgical unit for trucks