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Repowering the 90
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 2005 7:45 pm
by Furgus
Hi all
well i finally sold the disco so I've got some cash burning a hole in my pocket - the main thing i want to do is get rid of the LD28 front the 90 - so the question is what to put in it's place.
Current g'box is an LT77 (also have a 4spd RR box in the shed)
Options seem to be RR 3.5 V8 carbs, RR/Disco 3.9 V8 Efi, Holden 3.8 V6, or possibly a Lexus V8.
Anyone got any opinions on what would be best??
Cost is a factor - I've got a RR 3.5 V8 of dubious origen (supposedly rebuilt but never run) in the shed, any ideas on how much for any of the others?
Got to admit that Im probably most tempted by a Rover 3.9 Efi with an auto box.
Also what will it take to stick a set of 35's on it ?
Furgus
Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2005 9:33 pm
by mike
Interesting following this thread on the LR email list.
I have only a 3.5 v8 carbed going in the hybrid for which I'm going to put elec ignition in. For the rear axle I have a defender 96 rear axle which has 24 spline shafts and 4 wheel discs (broken so many 12 splines its not funny!). If I had the money I would go for the 3.9efi v8 and auto but I will stick with the 4speed and 3.5 as its going to get thrashed and will probably upgrade later on
Mike
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 6:41 am
by lowbox
You can get a wrecked disco very cheap these days (<$4grand)- 3.9v8, auto, lt230 transfer case and a rear axle with discs. May be cheaper than you imagine.
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 9:11 am
by Furgus
Yeah a wrecked disco was something I was thinking about - all depends if I can get a good one for a decent price (I think i've got scottish blood in me - short arms & deep pockets

)
Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2005 8:01 pm
by klompy
Yeah all the scottys got long thin cocks.Tight fisted wankers.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2005 9:15 am
by DieselBoy
:puker:

:pukel:
Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2005 9:31 pm
by Furgus
time
Posted: Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:40 pm
by wopass

YOU NOW HAVE ,,T MINUS 5 DAYS 6 HOURS TO HAVE THE TRANSPLANT COMPLETE.......

YOU CAN DOOOO EEEET ! !

Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2005 9:10 am
by Furgus
I definately have a time target - bubs is due on Sept 13th

so having it all by then is the target. Biggest PITA will be the certification etc.
Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:27 pm
by mike
Hey furgus what size SU's did you put on and what are they worth? I've been offered a set of 1 3/4 SU's reconditioned for $150. What is difference between the strombergs and SU's performance wise? Should I stay or should I SU?
Mike
Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:32 pm
by Furgus
I'm not sure what size thet are as they came off Neils shelf (freebie....zip....zero....nada

)! I'll find out this weekend for you.
I beleive that the main advantage of SU over Stromberg is that the SU setup is less prone to fuel starvation probs at extreme angles - it's what Neils comp truck runs and we've had no real probs even on the ridiculous angles that the trials put you at!!!
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2005 7:19 pm
by Furgus
Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:25 pm
by Furgus
Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 9:03 am
by wjw
Congrats on the bubby
Looks good...
Posted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 11:21 pm
by Furgus
Some significant progress was made this weekend
Saturday was spent tidying up lots of bits of wiring, fitting new fuel pump (pacet high flow electric), new fuel lines, and fiting the nice shiney new 120amp alternator - that should keep the winch cranking
Sunday we continued fettling with bits including replacing the now apparantly illegal

stainless brake hoses with new neopene style ones - nice bright orange - must get a pic of them.
Last weekend we had tried mounting the power steering pump on the motor but failed for the lack of a 120mm 3/8UNC bolt - this found we mounted up the pump and luckily the pulley is dead in line
So now we needed to find a place to mount the power steering fluid resevoir - their is plently of room in the engine bay but no flat surfaces - a special bracket was needed

never mind - that means a trip into Neils workplace (where they build trailer units) 4 pieces of steel cut & welded up & a work of art is created - best of all a perfect place to mount the coil is made at the same time.
So we now have all the ingredients in place to see if the thing will fire up

Well we threw a new set of points in and a new set of ignition leads (which need replacing - they're all about a foot too long

) and gave it a go - cough splutter .............. nothing ........ tried some ether.......... cough splutter........... nothing. So it's at least turning over but just not firing

. So we did the only thing one can at this point - sat back had a beer and talked bullshit for half an hour & tried again ........... cough splutter .......... houston we have lift-off - my god what a beautiful sound - a Rover V8 with manifolds but no pipes ummmmmmmmmmm
So I'm a happy bunny agian now - still lots of jobs to do
Plumb in the radiator
Fabricate new transmission tunnel & floor panels
Fit new comfy seats
Swap rear axel for a Rangy one with disc brakes
Fit diff lock to said axle - when it arrives
Fit new bullbar & winch
Get the whole thing certed
That's all for now folks
Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 12:47 am
by mike
Nice progress indeed!!! don't forget to get rid of those points and put in a descent electronic ignition in the dizzy. Will give you better fuel economy and less headaches with water....well so Ive been told. I hate points full stop!!!
Mike
Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:34 am
by FUBAR
u shold mount the coil up/down
or they can burn the arse out of them
Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:01 am
by Furgus
Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 11:50 am
by FUBAR
the coils have oil in them to keep them cool, but they arnt filled to the max
so on side the coils inside arnt completely inclosed with oil
late model T coils dont matter
and furgus you are correct about a light bulb too
Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 2:05 pm
by Furgus
Oil inside a sealed unit won't keep it very cool - it needs to circulate to do that - it would help dissipate the heat alittle - anyways mines in a truck which shakes & rattles enough to slosh the oil all over the place

Just a note of interest I recall the coil in my old Spitfire 1500 was also horizontally mounted
Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 3:29 pm
by FUBAR
yip and they burn out too
i had one in my l200 too and it burnt out after bout 200,000ks
Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 4:02 pm
by DieselBoy
The heat is dissapated by convection currents created in the oil, much like an oil heater

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 1:33 pm
by Furgus
Shit - it'll only last 200,000km well we can't have that - imagine the cost!!!!
Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:01 pm
by FUBAR
things like that always crap out when u are out in middle of no where and with no spare
Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2005 8:47 pm
by Furgus
So do all sorts of other "disposable" parts - you carry whatever spares you think you may need - and maybe I'll chuck an old coil in now just to be sure. So how long are the leads supposed to last...and the dissy cap....and the uj's.....and the cv's....and the.........
Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2005 12:54 am
by FUBAR
gezz man just trying to be helpful
god you dont have to a smart arse about it
Posted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 8:33 am
by DieselBoy
FUBAR wrote:gezz man just trying to be helpful
god you dont have to a smart arse about it
Boys, boys, its not worth it!!!!!
You both make very good points!!!!
Posted: Sun May 21, 2006 10:03 pm
by Furgus
Posted: Mon May 22, 2006 8:41 am
by Rangielux
Furgus wrote:paid the money & nothing ever arrived - If anyone knows BARRY MAXWELL
& one to turn the fans off (with warning light which comes on when they're off)
Was that a dud TM deal? I hope someone finds him

Whats his nondeplume?
Have you got your rad fans on a thermostatic switch then the "off" switch as an overide? Why I ask that is cause if you rely on switching the fans on and off yourself, there will allways be the time when ya get distracted and forget to turn them on.
Looks as tho it's going to be a nice trick 90

Posted: Mon May 22, 2006 9:11 am
by Furgus
Was that a dud TM deal? I hope someone finds him Whats his nondeplume?
Yes it was - thry've kicked him off but won't give me details to catch the bugger - they will only supply personal info to the courts - so it looks like that's what I'll have to do - just the time involved pisses me off
Have you got your rad fans on a thermostatic switch then the "off" switch as an overide? Why I ask that is cause if you rely on switching the fans on and off yourself, there will allways be the time when ya get distracted and forget to turn them on.
Yes thet're on a thermo switch as well - the over-ride switch is really just for deep water crossings - hopefully the light will remind me to turn them back on afterwards
