Offroad-Express

Need to replace my passenger side cv joint, because I just noticed it and the outer axle have become damaged when my wheel bearing fell apart the cv if very stiff now and the axle has a section where it has spun on the stub axle and looks pock-marked like when you break a tack weld
....still works fine but can see it lasting too good.

Option one: genuine toyota cv joint for whopping $270 new owwwrrr!
Option two: generic trademe cv for $60 new
Option three: generic cv from repco about $100 (?)

vehicle is a 96 hzj70. allegedly these have the 'new' birfields same as 80 series and are stronger than old ones.
Has anyone actually tested and maimed one of the trademe or repco cv's? are they actually strong or made of noodles?

I use the cruiser off road quite a bit with 35 simex's and diff locks. Its held up well so far so current thinking is go for the genuine toyota part. Is there another way to get genuine toyota parts cheaper?

In other news does anyone want to buy a cruiser cv? "my mate says it's sweet"

try BNT as well

xorph wrote:Need to replace my passenger side cv joint, because I just noticed it and the outer axle have become damaged when my wheel bearing fell apart the cv if very stiff now and the axle has a section where it has spun on the stub axle and looks pock-marked like when you break a tack weld
....still works fine but can see it lasting too good.

Option one: genuine toyota cv joint for whopping $270 new owwwrrr!
Option two: generic trademe cv for $60 new
Option three: generic cv from repco about $100 (?)

vehicle is a 96 hzj70. allegedly these have the 'new' birfields same as 80 series and are stronger than old ones.
Has anyone actually tested and maimed one of the trademe or repco cv's? are they actually strong or made of noodles?

I use the cruiser off road quite a bit with 35 simex's and diff locks. Its held up well so far so current thinking is go for the genuine toyota part. Is there another way to get genuine toyota parts cheaper?

In other news does anyone want to buy a cruiser cv? "my mate says it's sweet"

apparently they are 2 min noodles,never tried one personaly but thats what i heard. i have a few genuine yota 60 series C.V's that i might part with if you get stuck for a good one mate.

longfields

MATT4U wrote:longfields

yer i got some, thats why i can afford to sell some spares

wopass wrote:

MATT4U wrote:longfields

yer i got some, thats why i can afford to sell some spares

and I just need the 30 spline cable locker axels to put my longs into the 60

Stay away from the $60 Trade me CVs thery are rubbish not only are they poorly made but you will also loose some of your turning circle ...

Most second hand ones will probably be genuine parts. Not to many mall cruisers ever even use the front diff Worth a try and should save you at least $100ish if not more, worth a try.

2 minute noodles! haha
well thats 2 people that say theyre rubbish so Ill go genuine.
Cheers for offer Wop, but post 90's cruisers use different cv's to 60 series. If you have some spare Aisin hubs Im looking for some.
Always considered myself too amateur to justify cost for longfields, how much are they worth anyway?

xorph wrote:2 minute noodles! haha
well thats 2 people that say theyre rubbish so Ill go genuine.
Cheers for offer Wop, but post 90's cruisers use different cv's to 60 series. If you have some spare Aisin hubs Im looking for some.
Always considered myself too amateur to justify cost for longfields, how much are they worth anyway?

send SUZOLA a pm and ask for the cost of 4 genuine ones plus gaskets etc you could own longfields

hey Wopass what did your longfeilds set you back if you don't mind me asking, I am looking at putting in a front locker as soon as my old club truck sells and don't want to start smashing CV's. cheers Stephen

my experience with cheap aftermarket CV joints is buy heaps as you will break them heaps. Either buy new original or go to a wrecker and get original secondhand. How good do you want to get changing cv's ??????

pagar wrote:hey Wopass what did your longfeilds set you back if you don't mind me asking, I am looking at putting in a front locker as soon as my old club truck sells and don't want to start smashing CV's. cheers Stephen

read the post above yours mate

Thanks have sent him a PM, ps his login is spelt with 2 L's (make's him (I presume he is a he) easier to find) now all I have to do is sell my old club truck to fund them

http://tlc.off-road.com/tlc/article/art ... ?id=264288

this makes a lot of sense if you had the skill and resources. also interesting to see how strong the shafts actually are:
58000 in-lbs of torque. even with a 35inch tire fully inflated it takes 3300lb at the edge of the tire to snap one (new, unfatigued) axle.
Suppose thats realistic.

Hmm... after fixing it all up im gonna need to go for a run i think, break a cv properly.

well be carefull what you wish for it may just come true.... I said a couple of hours ago on this very site I need to sell my old club truck and whammo I sold it this evening.... spooky possums

xorph wrote:Need to replace my passenger side cv joint, because I just noticed it and the outer axle have become damaged when my wheel bearing fell apart the cv if very stiff now and the axle has a section where it has spun on the stub axle and looks pock-marked like when you break a tack weld
....still works fine but can see it lasting too good.

Option one: genuine toyota cv joint for whopping $270 new owwwrrr!
Option two: generic trademe cv for $60 new
Option three: generic cv from repco about $100 (?)

vehicle is a 96 hzj70. allegedly these have the 'new' birfields same as 80 series and are stronger than old ones.
Has anyone actually tested and maimed one of the trademe or repco cv's? are they actually strong or made of noodles?

I use the cruiser off road quite a bit with 35 simex's and diff locks. Its held up well so far so current thinking is go for the genuine toyota part. Is there another way to get genuine toyota parts cheaper?

In other news does anyone want to buy a cruiser cv? "my mate says it's sweet"

I use the $56.00 from Autostop and been fine, although dont weigh 4000 kg with railway iron for springs

well, just did a shload of research about cruiser issues such as birfields and diffs etc. It seems that a std cv is a good bet for a 96 model cruiser cos they are stronger than earlier models and these cruisers have a tendency to explode front diffs anyway so forking out for a set of longfields and then spitting a diff head would kinda suck....
Reason is toyota decided to put in the front an 8inch diff based on a strengthened hilux design instead of the nuggety old 9.5inch jobbies. the ind susp 100 and 200 series are worse cos the housings are frail, but the factory electric lockers in the old 70 and 80 series are best of the 8" cos they have a much chunkier and stiffer right hand bearing housing and a very thick flange. This helps stop the ring and pinion flexing apart and shattering due to the contact angle of the teeth, especially in reverse.

I reckon people over-rate apparent 'weak links' with cruisers, ive had 2 that ive given a good beating offroad (used to have an 87 60 series) and never actually broken anything, just parts wearing out.
Same thing with suzuki's, i used to thrash the hell out of my sj410 and it never broke.
.....Then I fitted a rover v8 and blew the rear diff in ten minutes. then again the next time i used it. Diff was so dead coroner would need dental records. (all the teeth fell off.)