Offroad-Express

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Thanks for the advice, using the brakes goes against the 4wd training I did but that was in a 2.8 non-turbo manual, it pratically crawled down the slopes.
I ended up using the brakes down the slopes on the weekend (as the rocks at the bottom of the hill were apraching too fast !).

I guess that if the truck starts sliding its off the brakes and a blip on the gas to get control back

No, left foot always on the brake. Just accelerate as you would in a manual, if you take your foot of the brake, accelerate then button off, then put your left foot on the brake you will slide again. Like i said, left foot locked in place gently on the brake pedal. Believe it or not, and it is much debated, but alot of people believe you have more control down a hill using that technique than in a manual.
Take some time to practise by your self.
Pete.

Just thought of a better way to expain:
You are drivin down hill. You are driving the vihicle over the pressure being applied to the brakes, not leting gravty pull you to the bottom as in a manual. Technically if took your foot of the accelerator pedal you would come to a stop mid way down the slope.
The biggest problem i found was a failed assent, you would loose traction near the top of a hill, put it in R, then keep your foot exactly were it was on the pedal, or release slightly, and then accelerate down. Never quite got that one sorted. Always ended up loosing control a bit

Thanks for explaining that, It makes alot of sense.
Need to get out on the weekend and give it a go.

Finaly got to try the "driving over brakes" descent last nite.
Tried it on a 25deg slope, I was relly impressed with the amount of control.
Able to controll the speed of descent , stop halfway down and back up if required, all with the foot locked on the brake pedal.
Thanks again for the advice

Tried a variation on the "drive over brakes" hill descent the other weekend.

Testing ground was step, rain soaked grass hill, my 89 paj and the brother-in-laws series 2 landy.

Both vehicles attempted the hill in low range, at a gentle speed and suprisingly both made it the same distance up the hill before spinning 1 back and 1 front tyre (still havent dropped the pressures from 28 psi)

At this point we need to remind the readers that my truck is an AUTO, not sure how you would do this in a MANUAL

next attempt, starting at the bottom of the hill, left foot firmly on the brake peddle (harder on the brakes than needed for a descent), box in 4wdL and start giving it the gas.

Result - climbed at about walking pace all the way up the hill without any tyre slip at all.(very slippery grass, crap firestone RV tyres) The theory is that the brakes cause enough reistance, that any variation in grip on the ground between the left and right sides is insignificat enough to allow one wheel to spin.

Poor mans traction control ?

Would be interested if anyone else uses this method, I have noticed driving techniques dont often get discussed so I though I should pass this experiance on.

Good to see your trying these things out. I've only ever used it on rough rocky river beds and downhill. Nice to know that it will also work for slippery slopes. although it might take a bit of the fun out of it

Another important function of the drive over brakes for both manuals and autos in descents is when there is a chance of cross axle. What happens then is the wheel with no traction spins backwards (without difflocks or lsd) and all braking is lost on that axle. When driving over brakes this reduces this tremendously and is therefore safer. I do this a lot in my surf with open diffs as I really don't like the lunge forward when this happens!!

Mike

Works will in the mud to, you can turn sharper and have more control.

tryed this a while ago going up loose shingle riverbed banks. (open diffs, manual box) I certainly could not get any further up the slope using this method.

I did find interestingly enough though that I got further up the slope in reverse

gomulletgo wrote:tryed this a while ago going up loose shingle riverbed banks. (open diffs, manual box) I certainly could not get any further up the slope using this method.

I did find interestingly enough though that I got further up the slope in reverse

The method is used when going down hills to keep control of the vehicle, applying brakes on the way up a hill will not help you to the top.

The method is used when going down hills to keep control of the vehicle, applying brakes on the way up a hill will not help you to the top.

I realise that is what the first few posts were about but then this guy started talking about hill climbs using the same method.

Both vehicles attempted the hill in low range, at a gentle speed and suprisingly both made it the same distance up the hill

All I know, is thats what happened.

Had talked about it previously and decided to give it a go.

the test was grass covered hill, AT tyres.

Truck would get up so far untill one wheel would lose traction, once that happened the tyres on the opposite end (now trying to provide all of the moving force) would also start to spin.

Tried it three more times, using the driving over brakes technique. You need alot of brake peddle force for it to work. It works by making the brakes the hardest obstacle for the diffs to turn, so the variation in traction under each wheel have little effect and all four turn regardless of if they are in the air or not.

Your mileage may vary.... every situation/person/truck is different

All I know, is thats what happened.

That's cool man, I never doubted it. all I was saying was in the situation I tried it in I did'nt get the results. I would be wrapped if it worked for me (who needs lockers!) I will try it again on wet grass and see how I get on

I find this technique has worked a treat for me... Every situation and vehicle is different... I've tried successfully and unsuccessfuly in both manuals and autos...

There was one cross-axled situation I got myself into with my old gutless Jackaroo where applying a firm hanbrake (rear drums) as well as a stiff brake pedal and full power got me clear! (not recommending overdriving handbake, braking wasn't too powerful in that old machine either) There's lots of jittering action... and too-ing and fro-ing of the steering wheel can and did help when traction is loosing...

2c worth...

Before I got the LSD I used poor mans diff lock all the time. Just tap the brake with your left foot as you are losing traction. This stops the spinning wheel and allows the other to drive. This is basically how electronic traction control works in expensive modern 4wds.