Offroad-Express

Hi, can any one tell me who sells body lift kits for a 97 escudo. Prefer to buy complete kit with bolt extenders already made up.

Really disapointed that nobody makes a kit for these hi class zuk's in nz. Goods news is that i have bolts getting made at the moment . Pity some'body didnt specialize in suzuki's in nz.

Shane in Napier (on trademe as MUDFKR) makes extremely good body-lift kits out of milled alloy, steel sleeve-nuts etc.

I'll be getting his kits for our trucks.

lneil wrote:Shane in Napier (on trademe as MUDFKR) makes extremely good body-lift kits out of milled alloy, steel sleeve-nuts etc.

I'll be getting his kits for our trucks.

I brought some UHMWPE blocks off him for my cruiser a couple of years ago, cant remember what he charged me but they were a lot cheaper than everybody else was asking for them at the time?

Hey Bigbear

I found his number. If you want it send me a PM

Thanks for the post guys just brought some black 60mm uhmwpe enough to do me and pastime zuki cost as about $77 and cut and drilled it our selfs. Just waiting on a guy thats machining up the bolts because the zuks have that double skin floor.

Can anybody tell me the correct order to put the spacer. Does it go
body, umphre spacer ,exsisting rubber spacer, chassis or
body, exsisting rubber spacer/ umphre spacer, chassis
Yeah i know its a dumb question but will look dumber if i do it wrong.

It doesn't matter a hell of a lot, but I went spacer on the body-side, existing rubber pad on the chassis-side. Because my spacers are slightly larger diameter than the pads, it left the pads sitting in the shaped mounts nicely. Either way, the pads will still do their job of providing a degree of cushioning.



Yes, I know the bottom cup is upside-down and missing the rubber washer! One day I'll get the two-inch blocks and fix everything properly.

The later model has those same shaped mounts. I put the umphre in the same place as you have so thats a relief.The only thing with my model is the strutt brace hits the body work now.( little bit of body needs cutting) the transfer lever hits the body work and a few other little things. Should get it finished this weekend . Then the winch bar starts.

For the transfer and shift levers, you will need to remove them and slightly bend them to avoid hitting against the rear of the floor access holes. Even with one inch I had my transfer lever kicking out of 2WD until I bent it a bit. Many guys weld extensions into the shifter shafts as well as re-aligning them.

After putting our fist kit in we have figured that if you have to pay $250 plus for a kit it is a ripoff. As Bigbear said we got the Umphe blocks for $77 enough for 2 trucks. 4 M10x130 Fine bolts for about $5 and 12 M16 bolts for $37. We got the bolts cut so we had 50mm smooth shaft and a M10 fine thread put up the middle by 40mm deep. A friend did this as a favour. All up about $120 for 2 trucks. Now just the job of re-mounting or re-building Bumpers and alter gear levers.

So tell me guys, are the M16 bolts used as a sleeve nut then, fitting over the existing body-studs from underneath? If so, did you also have to bore out the spacers/washers/pads etc.?

If that's how you did it and it works for you, I'm going to have to find myself an engineer to do the same for me.

We only had to drill out the bottom washer. The one that you have upside down to 16mm. The M16 bolt went through the rubber bushes after we took the plastic bush out of the top rubber bush. Have a look at http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/kicksuspension.htm. This is where we got our idea from. They have supplied new washers for the bottom but we just drilled ours

One last question Bigbear, where did you get the block of spacer material? I paid kazillions for only enough to do one truck with one inch. Your deal is WAY better!

and thanks for all the info so far, new username = Bighelp

Just brought it local at Eastland Bearings they order it in what ever lenght you want. Thats was ther retail price no trade discount.

Any engineering supplier will have it, or can get it. We would probably use a bigger diameter next time.

Thanks guys, will get some 80mm ordered ASAP.

lniel. We finished out lift today. We ended up putting the blockesunder the top rubber washer and on top of the chassis cup. The 60mm blocks worked quite well. had to tapper the bottom edge to sit nicely in the cup. Having the 60mm blocks on top squashed the rubber into a funny shape. Just a thought if you will be doing it with 50mm lift. weird to drive, quite a bit more body roll.

Thanks for that, I'll try it that way round then, with 60mm.

lneil wrote:Thanks for that, I'll try it that way round then, with 60mm.

Hi Neil,

I can supply UHMWPE rod aswell (work for a plastics company ) can do 12.7mm up to 250mm diameter in white or 25mm to 100mm in black , 63mm (black or white) is $97.87 per meter - we can cut to lenght and machine the blocks if you need as well. I havn't gotten around to doing a alloy lift for you as I lost your contact details but I could still do one if you like just let me know.

Cheers Shane.

hi passtime,
you mention you would use a larger diameter spacer if you were to do the lift again, what diameter would you go to?
im looking at doing a body lift, only an inch or so, but will get a larger diameter length of 'humpy' if you think it would work/sit better.
cheers
weemsy

It depends if you want to put the blocks direct under the body above rubber block (inwich I would use the same diameter as the top of the rubber block. Abour 90 I think) or putting it on to of the chasis under the rubber block. The 60mm block sat nicely in the chassis cut in the end. We had to put a small taper the bottom edge of the block to make it sit nicely. You wouldn't be able to use a larger block doing it this way.

thanks for that. much appreciated.
weemsy

Hi Mudfkr

PM'd you, as I still want some body-lift bits. Thanks.

Leigh