okay you diesel guru's what do you say

[pagar]

I have blown the CT26 turbo on my 13bt cruiser motor and am looking to either have rebuilt or replace, a mate is lending me a working one so I can still go 4 weeling while I sort what to do. to rebuild mine and balance will be about $550, I can buy a new aftermarket one for $540 but will have to make an adaptor from my manifold (ct26 is it's own lemon sizing) to a T3 fitting, plus side of buying new is I can change boost level and timing of boost effect. I just do not know what to change too. am I correct that the standard wastegate is set to open at only 5psi? the replacements are set at 8 but was thinking of adding a boost controller and free flow the exaust to limit turbo lag. any idea's / advice? cheers oh and I run 35" tyres so need power big time.....

[Engineer]

rebuild it yourself youll be surprised how simple it is like i said in your other post, itll cost u $300ish and u dont need to get it balanced unless you have modified anything.
or just get it rebuilt by someone, usually getting it balancedis $60-$80 so if ya dont get it balanced its only $400ish
If ya want power get a v8!

Ryan

[KiwiBacon]

As Ryan said, it doesn't need balanced if you put it back together in the same alignment it was before.

Just check the wheels and housings before you commit money, if either wheel has touched the housing then it's probably damaged and replacing that part will tip you quite close to a replacement turbo price.

Getting more boost is simple. Cut the wastegate rod and weld (or thread on) a threaded section for adjustment. Shortening the rod increases your boost. I'd expect it to run more than 5psi stock, but I'm only guessing.

[Engineer]

another thing you can do to increase boost is to tee off the wastegate actuator air line to a needle valve (flow control valve), you need one thats able to be closed right off and with a fine adjustment and locking nut. and also tee off to a boost gauge, to increase the boost simply adjust the needle valve to bleed off abita air. always take the truck for a drive at full noise and watch how much its increased by.
needle valve and tee fitting might cost you $30 from a pneumatics workshop. thats all those expensive boy race boost controllers are..

Ryan.

[pagar]

thanks for that, I have found boost controllers for $80 bucks and figure it is cheep enough to save me cocking up making my own. have been given/ loaned a replacement so can still go out this weekend and have a bit of time to sort replacement. rebuild of mine will be 450 - 550 including VSR balancing so would be better than new. new sim size unit 540 with a T3 fitting so would have to make custom adaptor to fit to my manifold but up side is if I fit a T3 fitting then I have heaps of options on turbos. other idea is a charger instead cause I need the power lower down as my truck is an auto so cannot pop the clutch a 3k revs.....

[rayndeb]

on my 80 series cruiser the stock boost is 9 psi..I think but not sure if its a ct26 ..seems most toyota turbos are the 26 even petrol cars

[rangimotors]

on my 80 series cruiser the stock boost is 9 psi..I think but not sure if its a ct26 ..seems most toyota turbos are the 26 even petrol cars

very true, but be aware there are many different versions of the ct26 a car petrol one (mr2/celica etc) is different to yours, so if your buying a second hand one make sure its the type you require

[pagar]

well I feel like a right dick, when I figured my turbo was blown I had a couple of other people listen and all agree turbo was done. well on Wednesday I was in the shed till 11pm fitting a replacement unit borrowed from a mate and finally got it up and running only to hear the exact same noise....... went back out last night and started pulling bits off one by one to eliminate the noise. after removing all the belts and restarting each time noise was still coming from the turbo. put fan belt back on and removed the turbo heat sheild and as soon as I started it I could smell fumes, ran my hand all round exaust and mainfold to find I have a manifold leak at the end of the manifold under a small heat sheild, could not smell fumes before cause the heat sheild deflected out the back cause of the fan air flow....... really pissed have spent a week f'ing with sorting turbo, missed a dam good run last sunday and now have to strip the holw dam lot off again tonight and replace the gaskets etc and get back up and running and ready to go on a run at 7:30 tomorrow morning. so there you go a toyota exaust manifold gasket when it blows acts like a reed and causes one hell of a noise........