Offroad-Express

Did a search for half an hour or so and couldn't find anything relating to a safari for a rear quarter guard chop.

Anyone done 1??

Tips/Advice??

What are the cables coming out, for trailer?? any thing inside the guards that need to be aware of??

cheers

HAVE A TALK TO AL BUNDY JUST BE CAREFULL CAUSE THERE ARE WIRES THAT RUN DOWN THE GUARDS AS AL FOUND OUT

Shane hand a write up about rear quater cuts I will try and find it

Here ya go,

http://www.mudrhino.com.au/Docs/DIY2.pdf

plenty at outer limits australian forums too

Its pretty easy took to mine with the 9'' grinder. that did the job. you can get to the wires from the inside of the rear at either side before you rip into it.

what are the wires for?? rear lamps etc??

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had this done last weekend and a new bumper made up,also will post pics of some rock sliders that were made for me and fitted by steve (supralux)

thats really nicely done vince..looks good.
at the moment i just flipped the bumper mounts upside down and chopped the step out just to lift it up and cover the gap between the body and the chassis

very nice work. how is the bottom sealed up?? plated over??

first remove the wires and then got the plasma out nice clean cut then plated underneath with the mig, time wise it took 2hrs and another 2hrs ish to make bumper and mount it,got to the stage where the rear quaters were getting knocked out of shape so decided to cut them off,spent the last 2mths getting mods done on the old tractor shifted the front diff forward aswell,lock up manual switch on torque converter thanks to Shane(whale owner),new shocks all round,rock sliders on thanks to supralux,another rear panhard rod made real strong,and some other stuff that i cant remember,

exhaust to be finshed off and stronger rear raduis arms
next on the list some 4.88 diffs from snake racing
and a turbo dont know which will come 1st

another rear panhard rod made real strong,and some other stuff that i cant remember

details please. I am currently thinking that I will get some hydraulic pipe and use that.
Al

albundy wrote:

another rear panhard rod made real strong,and some other stuff that i cant remember

details please. I am currently thinking that I will get some hydraulic pipe and use that.
Al

Hi Al
I dont know whether it applies to the rear panhard rod, but when I fitted the nissan front end under the hilux. I bought 2 front panhard rods and when I went to shorten them found one had a 5mm wall and the other one had a 10mm wall and yet they looked identical. The only way to tell the difference is by weight.
So there may be a factory heavy duty one for the rear at the wreckers. I dont know but someone might be able to shed some light on this.
Cheers Richard

It's for the rear Richard, I was even going to see if a Prado one would fit, but doubt it, but you never know. Paul D tells me they are very strong. Plus stuff for Nissans at wreckers now costs a fortune. I am looking for a wreck to buy whole and use/keep what I want and sell the rest. If you hear of one going let me know,
Al

albundy wrote:It's for the rear Richard, I was even going to see if a Prado one would fit, but doubt it, but you never know. Paul D tells me they are very strong. Plus stuff for Nissans at wreckers now costs a fortune. I am looking for a wreck to buy whole and use/keep what I want and sell the rest. If you hear of one going let me know,
Al

Another option Al would be to do what I did and cut it in half and vee the ends.I actually cut it about 200 from one end because I wanted max strength in the middle where they normally bend.
I then got a piece of high tensile rod and put it up the middle and then welded it together again.
As a safty back up I then doweled either side of weld with high tenile 10mm bolts going right through but stopping about a 1mm short and mig welded them in.
The certifier was competely happy. It wouldnt cost much either.
Richard

When I did the 1/4 cut I used one of those 1mm thick cutting disc which I found worked very well,with only the slitest we burn to the paint on the edge.I used alloy(approx 1.5mm) to cover hole,traced round body onto alloy then cut approx 10mm larger,then folded the extra 10mm secton down so it had a small flange.
Once that was done so it fitted nice I urathaned them in place and put a few rivets through the flange and body to help hold in place.I didnt wont to weld cause then I would have to had the paint touched,It just seamed easyer at the time and havent had any problems,not leakes etc You can also seal from the top through the trim panels on each side in the cab.

All safari's have the piss weak rear pan hard,I lenghtened my to suit lift by cutting near one end Like Richard did and stuffed a 6cyl rocker shaft down it(it was handy and fit was near perfect)plug welded through several hole I had drilled in panhard then welded a section of angle along the hole lenght,not the prettyest work I'v done but does the job and cost nothing

Shane

Nice rock sliders vince....need to get me some of them

albundy wrote:

another rear panhard rod made real strong,and some other stuff that i cant remember

details please. I am currently thinking that I will get some hydraulic pipe and use that.

Al

it is hydraulic pipe Al
did have steam pipe on before but that got bent which is pretty strong stuff,but hydraulic is stronger,just need to sort the front panhard rod ready for cert

Vince

Where did you source the hydraulic pipe from and what was the cost?
AL

found some laying around the farm ,i will have hunt around for some more,just waiting on a price for some chrome molly if i can get it cheaper enough you can have my rear panhard off my truck cost me nothing so its yours if i can get the other stuff

vince

tube an steel should do hydrolic pipe, mines soild steel bar 25 or 30mm can't see it from here

found some laying around the farm ,i will have hunt around for some more,just waiting on a price for some chrome molly if i can get it cheaper enough you can have my rear panhard off my truck cost me nothing so its yours if i can get the other stuff

Cool, thanx Bro
Al