Offroad-Express

Having trouble removing my crank pulley to replace my water pump. Using a long breaker bar with a bar on that and all i'm doing is moving the truck in reverse, it in gear (1st) handbrake on. Any ideas or should I tow it to the local garage and get them to attack it with the impact gun?

Get a socket onto the crank nut, find a nice safe place to jamb it then flick the starter . Sounds dodgey but has worked every time for me. Just make sure the socket cant move and that you only flick the starter. Should be enough to shock it free

that thought had crossed my mind. How many times have you done this?,
did you get a call about that g'box?

H2OLOVA wrote:Get a socket onto the crank nut, find a nice safe place to jamb it then flick the starter . Sounds dodgey but has worked every time for me. Just make sure the socket cant move and that you only flick the starter. Should be enough to shock it free

I've done that before.. it works.
Just make sure, when you put it back on that you use loctite and the right torque settings, or you might end up with a bill for several hundred in repairing the crank.

H2OLOVA wrote:Get a socket onto the crank nut, find a nice safe place to jamb it then flick the starter . Sounds dodgey but has worked every time for me. Just make sure the socket cant move and that you only flick the starter. Should be enough to shock it free

Yep, worked for me. But I have seen the result of it not working with a broken pully bolt. (But at least the pully comes off )

NJV6 wrote:

H2OLOVA wrote:Get a socket onto the crank nut, find a nice safe place to jamb it then flick the starter . Sounds dodgey but has worked every time for me. Just make sure the socket cant move and that you only flick the starter. Should be enough to shock it free

Yep, worked for me. But I have seen the result of it not working with a broken pully bolt. (But at least the pully comes off )

I think it sounds like a cowboy way of doing things.

Get a pulley for the power steering or air conditioner and weld a bar on the side and then bolt it to the pulley and you have complete control not only to undo it but do it up to the right pressure as well

Richard

H2OLOVA wrote:Get a socket onto the crank nut, find a nice safe place to jamb it then flick the starter . Sounds dodgey but has worked every time for me. Just make sure the socket cant move and that you only flick the starter. Should be enough to shock it free

thats the best way to do it unless you have the mother of all rattle guns
and it dosent damage angthing

A crankshaft pulley on a hilux is torqued to 135nm so how do you do this accurately if you use the starer motor to undo it?

If a job is worth doing it is worth doing properly.

Richard

thanks for the advice guys

Bulletproof wrote:A crankshaft pulley on a hilux is torqued to 135nm so how do you do this accurately if you use the starer motor to undo it?

If a job is worth doing it is worth doing properly.

Richard

Good advice there Richard but this thread is about undoing it not about how tight to do it up. I would certainly recommend torquing it up to the right settings. Obviously you haven't used this method (which is your choice) but you have a lot more control than my first post makes it sound.

lockie wrote: did you get a call about that g'box?

Not yet

Bulletproof wrote:A crankshaft pulley on a hilux is torqued to 135nm so how do you do this accurately if you use the starer motor to undo it?

If a job is worth doing it is worth doing properly.

Get your mate/wife/son/daughter/mistress/father/neighbour/mailman to sit in the car with their foot on the brake or push it up against a wall or something..... Then use a torque wrench to tighten to set.

Sometimes cowboys just manage to do things once and properly

However I am interested in your method but didn't quite follow.

Bulletproof wrote:Get a pulley for the power steering or air conditioner and weld a bar on the side and then bolt it to the pulley and you have complete control not only to undo it but do it up to the right pressure as well

How are you attaching your spare pully to the crank pulley? With the 2 or 4 wee threaded bolt holes in the pulley?

Here is a picture of the tool I use.

The right hand side does pinion nuts and the left does crankshaft pulley's.

Making one of these tools cost nothing, just get a worn out drive shaft flange or a power steering pulley and with a cut off disc cut off the flange and weld to a piece of steel
Complete control at all times.



Cheers I'm not arguing just trying to help

Richard

Bulletproof wrote:Here is a picture of the tool I use.

Cheers I'm not arguing just trying to help

Cheers, now I follow. We know your not argueing and like yourself, we are always open to new/alternative ideas/methods.

Glen

H2OLOVA wrote:

Bulletproof wrote:A crankshaft pulley on a hilux is torqued to 135nm so how do you do this accurately if you use the starer motor to undo it?

If a job is worth doing it is worth doing properly.

Richard

Good advice there Richard but this thread is about undoing it not about how tight to do it up. I would certainly recommend torquing it up to the right settings. Obviously you haven't used this method (which is your choice) but you have a lot more control than my first post makes it sound.

in a manual for hillman hunter (i think) the main shaft nut was to be tightened to 134ft/lb or something like that (bloody high torque), the book then went on to say, if you can't get a torque wrench big enough, then get a big spanner put a piece of pipe over it and then jump on it. so the right way is the best way but when you don't have the gear improvise!!!

[quote="Pedro]
in a manual for hillman hunter (i think) the main shaft nut was to be tightened to 134ft/lb or something like that (bloody high torque), the book then went on to say, if you can't get a torque wrench big enough, then get a big spanner put a piece of pipe over it and then jump on it. so the right way is the best way but when you don't have the gear improvise!!! [/quote]

In the factory maintenance manual for the torquing of the nut that holds the propeller onto the shaft of a gypsy queen aircraft engine, as fitted to the Devon/Dove; they tell the mechanic to weigh himself, work out how far along the really long power bar attached to the prop nut he will need to hang to apply the specified torque.

So not all factory specified methods of doing it the right way use expensive specialist tools.

The starter motor is a great Torque Multiplier, but beware there has been a few bent armature shafts from using this method. One time when I used the starter motor method I couldn't find my power bar so I used my ratchet, the local
Snap-On; tool rep; replaced it and couldn't understand how there was so much damage to it , he asked if I had used a length of pipe on it, and I could honestly say NO.
Another method for stopping the motor from turning is to lock it using the teeth of the ring gear, remove the starter or clutch cover and jam a big screwdriver or pry bar into the teeth and turn the motor over until it locks up.

FITZY.

Hey this is working great! keep the ideas coming

we done tae starter motor trick many times when u cant get a rattle gun in place (and i work in a workshop) just remember to use a good single hex socket and good power bar. and to tourqe it back up remove the starer motor and lock the fly wheel with a good pry bar or an old bent valve

getting tightened back up today after i've put the hubs back together (rebuilding them while the truck wasn't running) otherwise who knows when i'd get round to doing that.