Offroad-Express

Can anyone tell me how to remove/block the EGR valve on a TD27?
Pics would be good, as I am enquiring for a mate who is having issues with large amounts of black smoke under acceleration, and has checked most other things, but isn't sure what the valve looks like, or exactly what needs removing.


Cheers

On the exhaust manifold you will see an extra pipe coming off, assuming similar to TD42 its on the front of the collector where you would expect to find O2 sensor on a petrol. If you follow this around the back of the engine it joins on under the intake manifold, you can probably follow the manifold shape to see where it goes and find the valve. To try it/do a quick block, you should be able to seperate the exhaust feed from the manifold, I think it joins with a 2 bolt flange, and cut/drill a piece of plate to the flange shape and sandwich it back in there with some maniseal or similar, this should prevent the egr actually doing anything in order to see if theres any imporvement. In order to get rid of it the tidy way you need to remove all that pipework and the valve and make blanking plates to cover the manifold holes and a bung for the exhaust manifold plus plug the vac line that operates the valve

I have photos and instructions just email me and I will send them to you.
lesday@wn.com.au

Assuming your vacuum/solenoids etc are working correctly, disabling EGR us as simple as fooling one wire

the EGR system is designed to only operate once water temp is above 60'c, so simply unplugging the wire and connector correct value resistor will keep it closed



My Terrano had BAD low rev/low throttle blue smoke, but only once warmed up

Ive since had the leaky oily turbo reconditioned, pulled intake manifold, removed all EGR piping

Intake manifold was FILTHY!!! up to 5mm thick gunk lining the runners on two (connections to EGR port blocked with crud on other two). pressure relief valve completey crusted over,

3 cans of degreaser and a high pressure hose has got it looking respectable again


Thanks for the picture guide Les!
Always helps to know what your looking for before you jump on in

Cheers
Adam

adam666 wrote:Assuming your vacuum/solenoids etc are working correctly, disabling EGR us as simple as fooling one wire

the EGR system is designed to only operate once water temp is above 60'c, so simply unplugging the wire and connector correct value resistor will keep it closed

NOT RECOMMENDED.
other systems require that temp sensor to work correctly. glow plugs, fueling/timing, auto gearbox etc.
even if you do disable it that way the egr system can still leak.
best way to disable egr is to block egr pipe and disable any butterfly that works with egr.

fouling of intake is partly egr, the rest is oil via breather and fine dust that gets through the air filter.

tweake wrote:

adam666 wrote:Assuming your vacuum/solenoids etc are working correctly, disabling EGR us as simple as fooling one wire

the EGR system is designed to only operate once water temp is above 60'c, so simply unplugging the wire and connector correct value resistor will keep it closed

NOT RECOMMENDED.
other systems require that temp sensor to work correctly. glow plugs, fueling/timing, auto gearbox etc.
even if you do disable it that way the egr system can still leak.
best way to disable egr is to block egr pipe and disable any butterfly that works with egr.

fouling of intake is partly egr, the rest is oil via breather and fine dust that gets through the air filter.

Well ACTUALLY, the TD27T has 3 temp sensors - one of which is for the EGR - hence my suggestion

And im not sure what can go wrong with the EGR system, and my problem was the fact my inlet manifold was so filthy, and not the EGR at fault.

But having known the easy way to disable the EGR earlier I couldve confirmed alot sooner that the EGR was functioning correctly and was not the reason for the blue smoke.


Have since removed all EGR piping, blanked both Exh and Intake EGR flanges, removed Butterfly/vac solenoid from intake (still leaving shaft as I couldnt be bothered trying to tap or epoxy holes in the side!)

Reconditioned TURBO, clean intake manifold and alot less piping - SHE RUNS PRIMO!!!!

good to hear its running sweat

catch can helps with the oil in the intake.

yep, BIG relief!!

i mean its only just coming up to 130k now so was a bit concerned with the smoking issue!

Got 'Shell Helix' oil bottle for a catch can at the mo

so something a bit more comprehensive is next on the list!

Then a hydrogen booster once my new mill arrives!

Cheers
Adam

Sorry to bring up a really old thread, but

Does just removing the butterfly actuator help at all? Or do i have to do the whole lot?

Hi guys,
my name is Josh, i havent introduced myself here yet, but i plan to soon.
i'm just working on cleaning out my intake manifold and i plan to block off my EGR also.
I'm having some trouble figuring out how to remove my intake manifold. some of the bolts are behind/under the fuel injector tube assembly, and i cant seem to figure out how to remove the injector tube assembly. i thought i would be able to pull it all from the top, but it appears i will have to disconnect the tube assembly from the bottom of the fuel injector pump also, and i dont even know how to access those bolts. they're way beneath my intake manifold and i cant reach them or barely see them.
i'm starting to think i'm wrong.
is there a way to remove your intake manifold without removing your injector tube assembly?
i have a 1991 Nissan Terrano TD27T by the way...
Thanks a lot for all your time and help,
Josh

EGR shouldn't be causing black smoke under acceleration. EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) feeds a minimal amount of inert/burnt exhaust gas back into the incoming fresh air to lower the cylinder temp to reduce NOx emissions (the gas that makes smog). Black smoke is caused by incomplete combustion not EGR (unless the EGR valve is stuck open). By removing it your not actually fixing the problem thats causing the smoke.
Air intake restrictions including turbo not developing adequate boost, Exhaust restrictions, Incorrect fuel injection timing, Incorrect injector spray patterns, faulty aneroid on turbo models when fitted (stops injector pump from going to full fuel position until boost is up enough to burn fuel) will cause black smoke.
You may also find on systems that use EGR injection occurs late (sometimes 7-9 deg BTDC) they do this to lower the cylinder temp as well. Might be something to look at.

egr is a fairly common cause of black smoke, including on acceleration. simply because the valves stick open which is why you don't block vac tubes or trick temp sensors, it ends up staying stuck open.
removing the egr stops a whole host of other problems.

I'm going to let this thread run it's course
Pull the whole lot out, butterfly, valve assembly, pipe, vacuum actuators, and plate up the flanges in intake and exhaust.
Yes it is a prick of a job, but worth it, not only for the performance but it makes the engine bay far less cluttered
Cheers,

OK, thanks guys.
i figured out how to tremove my intake manifold, but in teh process i had 2 bolt heads snap off, so i wasnt able to pull my intake manifold. i removed the elbow flange on top of my intake and cleaned it as best i could through that little opening.
i still managed to pull my EGR valve, and removed the little plate that my Butterfly Actuator controlled to close off air flow to my intake manifold.
it made a drastic reduction in the amount of exhaust smoke i see. i used to see big clouds at times, and when it was hot i had exhaust smoke every time i stepped on the pedal. during low load, medium load and full load. now i cant see anything more than a very light colored haze that disappears immediately. i cant get it to blow a black cloud of smoke even when i try. i'm very happy with the results. my truck really likes breathing clean air. (i vented my PCV into the atmosphere through a K&N filter awhile back).
I know i didnt adjust anything on my fuel injector pump, but i figure i must have increased the air flow by giving my engine only clean air, not air full of exhaust smoke and PCV fumes, so that must have given me a leaner air-fuel ratio. maybe i could have gotten the same results from tuning my fuel injector pump, but at the time i really didnt know how to do that, and i had my truck into 3 different mechanics trying to solve this problem, and nobody helped me with anything besides wasting money.
since then, i've done a ton of research on tuning the Bosch VE fuel injection pump, and i've found a ton of great links and pics on the subject. maybe i could have gotten the same results from tuning my fuel injector pump. i dont know. i'm happy i got rid of EGR valve regardless.
i just got a intercooler, and when i install it i want to turn up the boost and then turn up the fuel a little bit to match, so i'm going to try and tune up my fuel injector pump at that time.
i went to clean the little gauze filter found in the banjo bolt on the fuel inlet to the fuel injector pump, and i realized i dont have one. and i cant seem to find anyone who sells it, so i hope its not a big deal to drive without it. i have no idea how long its been missing. at least a few years though. and i did a seafoam treatment through my fuel filter to clean my fuel injectors. i should clean them manually by hand, but i have a lot of projects on the go at the moment.
anyways, here's some links and pics on how to tune the Bisch VE Fuel Injector Pump:
http://mopar.mopar19...mp/inc-pump.htm
http://forums.lr4x4....hp?showtopic=31
http://www.tstproduc...adjustment.aspx
http://www.dieselpow..._ram/index.html
http://www.performan...cummins-343676/
http://www.dens-site...overnor_Spring/
http://dodgeram.org/...er/Power_ve.htm
http://www.dividingc...fo_from_the_web
http://www.fourwd.org.uk/bosch_ve.html

and here's some aftermarket fuel pins that will increase your fuel delivery rate even more than the adjustments let you:
http://www.dennytper...om/products.htm
http://www.mandhinc.net/DPD-1-F.html