7000k in the simpson desert in a LANDCRUISER
Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:55 pm
http://www.stuff.co.nz/4644058a30.html
The first 500 sand dunes of the Simpson Desert are punishing enough.
Then there's the realisation there are yet more remaining, ranging in height from a few metres to more than 40. It sounds worse than it is; the Simpson Desert is not difficult in terms of off-roading.
Any capable four-wheel-drive can traverse the seemingly never-ending collection of the world's longest collection of parallel sand dunes.
But there is no short-cut over the Simpson. The steady 20km/h grind is by far the slowest, most laborious part of our 7000-kilometre trek across Australia, a journey to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the enduring Toyota LandCruiser.
Chosen as the ultimate test of Australia's most popular 4WD - more than 500,000 LandCruisers have been sold there since the first 22 came into the country in 1958 - the journey covers all mainland states except Victoria, while spending a couple of thousand kilometres in the Northern Territory.
Starting in Sydney, our route heads north-west, taking in dirt roads such as the Strzelecki, Birdsville and Tanami tracks as well as the Old Ghan railway line.
It also crosses the world's oldest river, the Finke, and visits such Australian icons as Uluru, Kata Tjuta and the Kimberley region.
As well as an adventure, it's also the ultimate torture test for a car; punishing corrugations, flooded roads, rocky dry creek beds and thousands of kilometres of red dirt. And the Simpson Desert.
The journey will test the mettle of a vehicle that's a very different beast to the industrial trucks that moulded the LandCruiser image and helped forge what is a legend to many, an irrelevant family wagon to others.
Over its nine iterations, the LandCruiser has never been bigger and heavier, nor as expensive as the latest 200-Series. The starting price in Australia of a Toyota LandCruiser wagon - rather than the more utilitarian 70-Series - exceeds A$70,000 ($NZ89,000), plus on-road costs. The diesel engine adds A$10,000 while the most expensive, leather-trimmed Sahara, is closer to $110,000. There's even a luxury Lexus variant, the LX570, above that.
Day one of the 23-day journey takes in country roads from Sydney to Bourke. It's an easy run that takes in the likes of Bathurst and Dubbo. We're only a few hundred kilometres in and our first problem strikes; a fast-clicking right-hand indicator signals a failed light cluster on the bullbar. It's hardly a worry, although it makes you wonder, "What's next?"
Quickly, though, the LandCruiser asserts itself as a supremely quiet, comfortable cruiser, though with the dulled steering reactions and heavy, ponderous feel of a large vehicle. With its high body and baggy off-road tyres, the LandCruiser isn't known for its handling prowess.
But the cruise control works and the new 4.5-litre, twin-turbo V8 musters ample power. Its 650Nm of torque also comes in handy for climbing hills and overtaking, something the LandCruiser does with relative ease for a capable eight-seater.
For now, stray kangaroos are our main concern, although they are, fortunately, unusually scarce, even after dusk. Still, we have a bullbar should Skippy try his luck.
Apart from a relatively common addition - bullbars are derided in the city but are almost a necessity in the country - our LandCruiser diesel is the same as those typically confined to the school run. We have an extra spare (for two in total) and a cargo barrier to stop said spare lunging forward.
As the idea of traffic lights and mobile phone range fades - we won't see the former until our midway point at Alice Springs, while the latter depends on your mobile carrier - we take an increasing interest in the price of fuel. Sub-$2 fuel looks decidedly cheap.
Given the distances, fuel is one of the biggest factors. We chose the entry-level GXL 'Cruiser, as they're known, because it's the only one of the latest diesel breed to be fitted with dual fuel tanks, for a combined 138-litre capacity. The base model LandCruiser also gets an auxiliary input plug to pump an iPod through the sound system; curiously, more expensive LandCruisers miss out.
The claimed fuel consumption figure of 10.3 litres/100km gives it a theoretical driving range of more than 1300 kilometres. Early on the fuel gauge seems to be living up to its part of the bargain. After 300 kilometres it's hovering around the three-quarter-full mark, which isn't bad for a 2.7-tonne off-roader that's ballooned to something closer to 3.2 tonnes once you factor in a couple of bodies, camping gear, food, water, supplies and some basic spare parts.
As with so many fuel gauges, we soon learn, the LandCruiser's picks up speed as the tank drains, which is handy to know given the more remote legs ahead. With a A$200 refill, the 'Cruiser is good as new.
Then it's time for the real test. On the edge of Bourke we get our first taste of more than 3000 kilometres of dirt roads. It's now that the LandCruiser's chunky off-road hardware comes into its own.
A 'live' rear axle is frowned upon in passenger cars but it's still seen as perfect for serious 4WDs. Only over corrugations does the rear-end get flustered, struggling to recover from the constant pounding. Sometimes the rear wheels step out of line but the stability control we've previously criticised on bitumen roads assertively straightens the vehicle, showing it's been calibrated with loose dirt in mind.
For the most part, Australia's outback 'tracks' are actually well-maintained roads. The Birdsville Track is more like a dirt freeway than the meandering trail most imagine. As with so many areas of the outback, extensive mining means the roads are well maintained - most of the time.
Rain, though, can quickly alter things (many roads are closed when it's wet to stop them being dug up), while washouts, bulldust holes and creeks can provide more serious obstacles, especially if you approach too fast. Divert from the mining roads, too, and road conditions can be wildly variable.
Washouts and dips are disposed of with ease before our first hurdle comes in the form of mud. Not far from the Moomba gas fields in South Australia is a track soaked from recent rain. Diversions head left and right, but they're bumpy and slow going. And extremely boggy.
It's here we're reminded of one of the golden rules of four-wheel-driving; always make sure your recovery gear is easily accessible, just in case you get stuck. Thinking (hoping) it wouldn't be needed, we'd tucked it away under tents, sleeping bags, cooking utensils and anything else we thought would be more frequently used. Once located, the snatch strap is hooked up to a following car to swiftly drag us clear, another reminder that travelling in convoy is often essential.
Despite the emptiness of Australia's centre, there's plenty to see. The barrenness that characterises kilometre after kilometre is eerily beautiful, while acting as a sober reminder that breaking down won't be much fun. A hand-painted sign or abandoned wreck breaks the monotony but for the most part nature takes care of the scenery.
In these open, vast spaces it's amazing how such a large 4WD can feel so small and insignificant. The nearest vehicle could be 100 kilometres away.
The closest town (and fuel) is further, while civilisation in the form of a city is at least 1000 kilometres in any direction. Little wonder reliability is the priority for so many country folk when it comes to buying a car.
Toyota's vast dealer network delivers some reassurance. It's ironic, though, that Japanese makes dominate in rural areas, given that Japan isn't exactly known for its uninhabited areas and penetrating dirt. Yet Toyota is the unofficial king of the outback. Nissan is a clear number two, with a steady stream of Patrols, followed by the occasional Mitsubishi Pajero.
Despite the iconic name, Jeeps are almost non-existent out here, while the handful of Land Rovers are mainly Defenders, based on the decades-old originals. The first Range Rover we spot is in Broome, while there is only a single Hummer, albeit kitted out as if it is heading to Iraq.
The stalwart of Australian roads for decades and still a popular choice in the bush - Ford Falcons and Holden Commodores - are almost nowhere to be seen in the outback. I reckon we see more Fords and Holdens burnt out (usually upside down) beside the road than on their wheels.
And, while another behemoth LandCruiser might not get a second glance in the city, in places such as the Simpson it's big news, relatively speaking. It's akin to driving a new Ferrari through Leichhardt in Sydney or Lygon Street in Melbourne, it attracts attention.
Interested locals - kick its dirty tyres and ask how "the 200" is going. Sporadically, our UHF radio crackles into life as passers-by query what ``the new one'' is like to drive.
One Nissan driver is quick to ask whether the new diesel engine is using oil, as some have been. Ours isn't but, 5500 kilometres into the trip, at Wolfe Creek, we add another half a litre of oil, just to be sure.
After the punishment of the Old Ghan railway line and the monotony of the Tanami track and its countless termite mounds, Wolfe Creek is also our first proper campground (previously we'd picked anywhere beside the road that looked OK). Campfire chat with other travellers inevitably shifts to the discussion about vehicles.
All agree that there are more Toyotas than anything else; I guess that half the cars we've passed are Toyotas, mostly LandCruisers, but also plenty of Prados and HiLux utes. A glance around the campground adds weight to the estimation; of 22 cars, 13 are Toyotas; another seven Nissans, with a single Mitsubishi and a lone Land Rover, the only non-Japanese marque.
The LandCruiser's 50 years in Australia haven't been without mishap. With the 80-Series of the early 1990s, Toyota was quickly forced to replace the sub-standard tyres with something more resilient to punctures. Even with the new 200-Series, the engineers have made the curious decision to drop the rear 12-volt power outlet that was handy for small fridges or camping lights.
And, while it's seen as one of the ultimate machines to soak up all that nature can dish out, ironically the LandCruiser's thirst ensures it's regularly chastised as being far from environmentally friendly. In many ways Toyota couldn't have timed any better the introduction of the relative 4WD upstart, Hummer, which despite selling less than one-tenth the number of LandCruisers has gone on to be the vehicle regularly lambasted by environmentalists across the country.
Speaking of the environment, it doesn't get much more spectacular than the Kimberley, the start of our home run. By the time we reach the Gibb River Road it almost feels like the finish line. It's odd how 700 kilometres can feel as if it's around the corner. Only a four-trailer road train temporarily slows progress into Derby then Broome; passing on dirt roads takes some patience anyway but when there are 86 tyres spewing dust in all directions, it's impossible.
Nearing the end of the journey we calculate the fuel bill before watching the obligatory sunset at Cable Beach, then realise we haven't even had to change a flat tyre. For 13 refills, we've averaged $2.20 a litre, while the most expensive we've seen is $2.68. We hear of one group paying in excess of $3 a litre, which for those driving a Toyota Prado - with a mammoth 180-litre tank - equates to more than $500 for a single fill.
Our total fuel bill is big enough, heading just north of A$2000 for 6993 kilometres of varied driving, including plenty of soft, sandy roads. The LandCruiser averages 14.3L/100km. Our most economical stretch is 11.8L/100km on a straight stretch of freeway, the thirstiest closer to 17L/100km.
Fuel prices - and the arrival of the slightly smaller but almost as capable Toyota Prado - are taking their toll on LandCruiser sales. Since 1994, the Australian new-car market has all but doubled, yet LandCruiser sales have slipped.
Those who buy them, though, love them and swear by them, and the arrival of a new model has led to a 34 per cent sales resurgence in the first half of this year, although most of the 10,000 sold since January 1 probably won't do anything like our across-Australia adventure.
So what do the next 50 years hold for the LandCruiser? Already Toyota's talking of a hybrid version; it remains to be seen how such an advanced solution will sit with off-road users.
Still, given the boom in tourism and the convoy of caravans and grey nomads looking to explore Australia there's still plenty of demand for serious off-roaders such as the LandCruiser. We still love to travel, even if it's increasingly more a luxury than a rite of passage.
THE CAR
Toyota LandCruiser GXL diesel
Price: A$81,328, plus on-road costs
Price as tested: A$85,247, plus on-road costs
Options: Bullbar, cargo barrier, extra spare tyre
Engine: 4.5-litre, twin-turbo V8 diesel
Power: 195kW at 3400rpm
Torque: 650Nm at 1600rpm
Transmission: Six-speed automatic
Fuel consumption: 10.3L/100km (claimed), 14.3L/100km (actual)
CO2 emissions: 273g/km (claimed), 384g/km (actual)
Weight: 2630kg, plus options
Trip computer:
Distance travelled: 6993km
Fuel used: 997.7 litres
Fuel cost: $2195
Average consumption: 14.3L/100km
Average price for fuel: $2.20 per litre
The first 500 sand dunes of the Simpson Desert are punishing enough.
Then there's the realisation there are yet more remaining, ranging in height from a few metres to more than 40. It sounds worse than it is; the Simpson Desert is not difficult in terms of off-roading.
Any capable four-wheel-drive can traverse the seemingly never-ending collection of the world's longest collection of parallel sand dunes.
But there is no short-cut over the Simpson. The steady 20km/h grind is by far the slowest, most laborious part of our 7000-kilometre trek across Australia, a journey to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the enduring Toyota LandCruiser.
Chosen as the ultimate test of Australia's most popular 4WD - more than 500,000 LandCruisers have been sold there since the first 22 came into the country in 1958 - the journey covers all mainland states except Victoria, while spending a couple of thousand kilometres in the Northern Territory.
Starting in Sydney, our route heads north-west, taking in dirt roads such as the Strzelecki, Birdsville and Tanami tracks as well as the Old Ghan railway line.
It also crosses the world's oldest river, the Finke, and visits such Australian icons as Uluru, Kata Tjuta and the Kimberley region.
As well as an adventure, it's also the ultimate torture test for a car; punishing corrugations, flooded roads, rocky dry creek beds and thousands of kilometres of red dirt. And the Simpson Desert.
The journey will test the mettle of a vehicle that's a very different beast to the industrial trucks that moulded the LandCruiser image and helped forge what is a legend to many, an irrelevant family wagon to others.
Over its nine iterations, the LandCruiser has never been bigger and heavier, nor as expensive as the latest 200-Series. The starting price in Australia of a Toyota LandCruiser wagon - rather than the more utilitarian 70-Series - exceeds A$70,000 ($NZ89,000), plus on-road costs. The diesel engine adds A$10,000 while the most expensive, leather-trimmed Sahara, is closer to $110,000. There's even a luxury Lexus variant, the LX570, above that.
Day one of the 23-day journey takes in country roads from Sydney to Bourke. It's an easy run that takes in the likes of Bathurst and Dubbo. We're only a few hundred kilometres in and our first problem strikes; a fast-clicking right-hand indicator signals a failed light cluster on the bullbar. It's hardly a worry, although it makes you wonder, "What's next?"
Quickly, though, the LandCruiser asserts itself as a supremely quiet, comfortable cruiser, though with the dulled steering reactions and heavy, ponderous feel of a large vehicle. With its high body and baggy off-road tyres, the LandCruiser isn't known for its handling prowess.
But the cruise control works and the new 4.5-litre, twin-turbo V8 musters ample power. Its 650Nm of torque also comes in handy for climbing hills and overtaking, something the LandCruiser does with relative ease for a capable eight-seater.
For now, stray kangaroos are our main concern, although they are, fortunately, unusually scarce, even after dusk. Still, we have a bullbar should Skippy try his luck.
Apart from a relatively common addition - bullbars are derided in the city but are almost a necessity in the country - our LandCruiser diesel is the same as those typically confined to the school run. We have an extra spare (for two in total) and a cargo barrier to stop said spare lunging forward.
As the idea of traffic lights and mobile phone range fades - we won't see the former until our midway point at Alice Springs, while the latter depends on your mobile carrier - we take an increasing interest in the price of fuel. Sub-$2 fuel looks decidedly cheap.
Given the distances, fuel is one of the biggest factors. We chose the entry-level GXL 'Cruiser, as they're known, because it's the only one of the latest diesel breed to be fitted with dual fuel tanks, for a combined 138-litre capacity. The base model LandCruiser also gets an auxiliary input plug to pump an iPod through the sound system; curiously, more expensive LandCruisers miss out.
The claimed fuel consumption figure of 10.3 litres/100km gives it a theoretical driving range of more than 1300 kilometres. Early on the fuel gauge seems to be living up to its part of the bargain. After 300 kilometres it's hovering around the three-quarter-full mark, which isn't bad for a 2.7-tonne off-roader that's ballooned to something closer to 3.2 tonnes once you factor in a couple of bodies, camping gear, food, water, supplies and some basic spare parts.
As with so many fuel gauges, we soon learn, the LandCruiser's picks up speed as the tank drains, which is handy to know given the more remote legs ahead. With a A$200 refill, the 'Cruiser is good as new.
Then it's time for the real test. On the edge of Bourke we get our first taste of more than 3000 kilometres of dirt roads. It's now that the LandCruiser's chunky off-road hardware comes into its own.
A 'live' rear axle is frowned upon in passenger cars but it's still seen as perfect for serious 4WDs. Only over corrugations does the rear-end get flustered, struggling to recover from the constant pounding. Sometimes the rear wheels step out of line but the stability control we've previously criticised on bitumen roads assertively straightens the vehicle, showing it's been calibrated with loose dirt in mind.
For the most part, Australia's outback 'tracks' are actually well-maintained roads. The Birdsville Track is more like a dirt freeway than the meandering trail most imagine. As with so many areas of the outback, extensive mining means the roads are well maintained - most of the time.
Rain, though, can quickly alter things (many roads are closed when it's wet to stop them being dug up), while washouts, bulldust holes and creeks can provide more serious obstacles, especially if you approach too fast. Divert from the mining roads, too, and road conditions can be wildly variable.
Washouts and dips are disposed of with ease before our first hurdle comes in the form of mud. Not far from the Moomba gas fields in South Australia is a track soaked from recent rain. Diversions head left and right, but they're bumpy and slow going. And extremely boggy.
It's here we're reminded of one of the golden rules of four-wheel-driving; always make sure your recovery gear is easily accessible, just in case you get stuck. Thinking (hoping) it wouldn't be needed, we'd tucked it away under tents, sleeping bags, cooking utensils and anything else we thought would be more frequently used. Once located, the snatch strap is hooked up to a following car to swiftly drag us clear, another reminder that travelling in convoy is often essential.
Despite the emptiness of Australia's centre, there's plenty to see. The barrenness that characterises kilometre after kilometre is eerily beautiful, while acting as a sober reminder that breaking down won't be much fun. A hand-painted sign or abandoned wreck breaks the monotony but for the most part nature takes care of the scenery.
In these open, vast spaces it's amazing how such a large 4WD can feel so small and insignificant. The nearest vehicle could be 100 kilometres away.
The closest town (and fuel) is further, while civilisation in the form of a city is at least 1000 kilometres in any direction. Little wonder reliability is the priority for so many country folk when it comes to buying a car.
Toyota's vast dealer network delivers some reassurance. It's ironic, though, that Japanese makes dominate in rural areas, given that Japan isn't exactly known for its uninhabited areas and penetrating dirt. Yet Toyota is the unofficial king of the outback. Nissan is a clear number two, with a steady stream of Patrols, followed by the occasional Mitsubishi Pajero.
Despite the iconic name, Jeeps are almost non-existent out here, while the handful of Land Rovers are mainly Defenders, based on the decades-old originals. The first Range Rover we spot is in Broome, while there is only a single Hummer, albeit kitted out as if it is heading to Iraq.
The stalwart of Australian roads for decades and still a popular choice in the bush - Ford Falcons and Holden Commodores - are almost nowhere to be seen in the outback. I reckon we see more Fords and Holdens burnt out (usually upside down) beside the road than on their wheels.
And, while another behemoth LandCruiser might not get a second glance in the city, in places such as the Simpson it's big news, relatively speaking. It's akin to driving a new Ferrari through Leichhardt in Sydney or Lygon Street in Melbourne, it attracts attention.
Interested locals - kick its dirty tyres and ask how "the 200" is going. Sporadically, our UHF radio crackles into life as passers-by query what ``the new one'' is like to drive.
One Nissan driver is quick to ask whether the new diesel engine is using oil, as some have been. Ours isn't but, 5500 kilometres into the trip, at Wolfe Creek, we add another half a litre of oil, just to be sure.
After the punishment of the Old Ghan railway line and the monotony of the Tanami track and its countless termite mounds, Wolfe Creek is also our first proper campground (previously we'd picked anywhere beside the road that looked OK). Campfire chat with other travellers inevitably shifts to the discussion about vehicles.
All agree that there are more Toyotas than anything else; I guess that half the cars we've passed are Toyotas, mostly LandCruisers, but also plenty of Prados and HiLux utes. A glance around the campground adds weight to the estimation; of 22 cars, 13 are Toyotas; another seven Nissans, with a single Mitsubishi and a lone Land Rover, the only non-Japanese marque.
The LandCruiser's 50 years in Australia haven't been without mishap. With the 80-Series of the early 1990s, Toyota was quickly forced to replace the sub-standard tyres with something more resilient to punctures. Even with the new 200-Series, the engineers have made the curious decision to drop the rear 12-volt power outlet that was handy for small fridges or camping lights.
And, while it's seen as one of the ultimate machines to soak up all that nature can dish out, ironically the LandCruiser's thirst ensures it's regularly chastised as being far from environmentally friendly. In many ways Toyota couldn't have timed any better the introduction of the relative 4WD upstart, Hummer, which despite selling less than one-tenth the number of LandCruisers has gone on to be the vehicle regularly lambasted by environmentalists across the country.
Speaking of the environment, it doesn't get much more spectacular than the Kimberley, the start of our home run. By the time we reach the Gibb River Road it almost feels like the finish line. It's odd how 700 kilometres can feel as if it's around the corner. Only a four-trailer road train temporarily slows progress into Derby then Broome; passing on dirt roads takes some patience anyway but when there are 86 tyres spewing dust in all directions, it's impossible.
Nearing the end of the journey we calculate the fuel bill before watching the obligatory sunset at Cable Beach, then realise we haven't even had to change a flat tyre. For 13 refills, we've averaged $2.20 a litre, while the most expensive we've seen is $2.68. We hear of one group paying in excess of $3 a litre, which for those driving a Toyota Prado - with a mammoth 180-litre tank - equates to more than $500 for a single fill.
Our total fuel bill is big enough, heading just north of A$2000 for 6993 kilometres of varied driving, including plenty of soft, sandy roads. The LandCruiser averages 14.3L/100km. Our most economical stretch is 11.8L/100km on a straight stretch of freeway, the thirstiest closer to 17L/100km.
Fuel prices - and the arrival of the slightly smaller but almost as capable Toyota Prado - are taking their toll on LandCruiser sales. Since 1994, the Australian new-car market has all but doubled, yet LandCruiser sales have slipped.
Those who buy them, though, love them and swear by them, and the arrival of a new model has led to a 34 per cent sales resurgence in the first half of this year, although most of the 10,000 sold since January 1 probably won't do anything like our across-Australia adventure.
So what do the next 50 years hold for the LandCruiser? Already Toyota's talking of a hybrid version; it remains to be seen how such an advanced solution will sit with off-road users.
Still, given the boom in tourism and the convoy of caravans and grey nomads looking to explore Australia there's still plenty of demand for serious off-roaders such as the LandCruiser. We still love to travel, even if it's increasingly more a luxury than a rite of passage.
THE CAR
Toyota LandCruiser GXL diesel
Price: A$81,328, plus on-road costs
Price as tested: A$85,247, plus on-road costs
Options: Bullbar, cargo barrier, extra spare tyre
Engine: 4.5-litre, twin-turbo V8 diesel
Power: 195kW at 3400rpm
Torque: 650Nm at 1600rpm
Transmission: Six-speed automatic
Fuel consumption: 10.3L/100km (claimed), 14.3L/100km (actual)
CO2 emissions: 273g/km (claimed), 384g/km (actual)
Weight: 2630kg, plus options
Trip computer:
Distance travelled: 6993km
Fuel used: 997.7 litres
Fuel cost: $2195
Average consumption: 14.3L/100km
Average price for fuel: $2.20 per litre