Offroad-Express

Hi guys just picked up factory pto from a 1984 cruiser mwb.Question is what is it rated at 8-10000lbs etc.No markings on it .Also I need info on how to use it such as manual or web site to view.shear pins do they need to be up graded to what size?.Has 20m of steel cable at 10mmdia is this ok? Lots of questions so your help is much needed.Cheers



Same shit different day

the toyota PTO's are not really rated that i know of, they just pull untill something breaks usually the shear pin. i have the early much bigger pto and run a medium grade M10 bolt as a shear pin and it breaks before anything else

as for operation of it... kinda hard to explain but if you say where you are you might get someone who knows thier stuff near by to come show you.

The PTO's between the early cruiser transfercase's (pre 1980) and the split transfercase's (post 1980) arent interchangable, I dont know what sort of cruiser you've got but you'd have to have a split transfercase in your truck for it to fit.

Not all split transfercase's came out with the PTO drive gear in them so you want to pop the PTO plate off and have a look to see if the drive gear is there or if its got the long spacer on the shaft instead.

Thanks guys,Pto came with complete 5 speed box with pto.So my box didnot have drive gear.so i was able to inter change drive gear.Box is a h55f.So I have to cut hole in floor to locate pto lever etc and butcher bullbar to mount winch.I have 91 mwb cruiser 4.2 desil.Cheers

20m of cable is probably a bit short - you can fit 40m on the drum, but about 30m seems ideal to avoid having it run off the end. You should be able to pick up some steel cable pretty cheap since so many people are going synthetic. In my opinion, steel cable is fine for club or fun trips as long as you take appropriate precautions with cable dampeners. I use a 5mm Grade 12 bolt for a shear pin. It's broken a few times under pretty heavy load, but I'm not going bigger as it prevents something more serious from breaking. That said - I know others who are running 1/4in or 6mm bolts and they haven't broken the winch, so it can obviously take some pretty heavy loading. Before you fit it to the truck - make sure the dog clutch slides freely. The keyways can get burred and cause it to jam. It's just a matter of filing the edges. Much easier to fix before it goes on the truck..

The Toyota PTOs are pretty bullet proof. Here are a few things I've learnt the hard way.

1. Don't winch and drive at the same time. The winch has plenty enough power without the wheels trying to help. Run the transfer case in neutral and select either 1st or 2nd gear to do the pulling. If you winch and drive you get slack then tight and she don't like that much. I've found she don't like to winch much in anything thing higher than 3rd gear. Too fast for the PTO drive to handle.

2. Make sure whoever your pulling with the winch doesn't try to drive as well. The winch once again has plenty of power and the shock loading effect of a 4x4 jolting on the end of the cable doesn't do a lot for your T'case/gearbox. Get them to put it in neutral and leave it there. And ask them if they have the handbrake off. (You'd be suprised.)

3. Get rid of the factory shear pin and upgrade to something slightly bigger. The factory pins aren't that flash and are expensive ($20 from memory). Don't go too big though because if the shear pin don't give the drive in the PTO case will.

4. Check the brake pad on the side of the drum. It should just be enough to apply tension on the side of the drum when you free spool wire out. If it's worn you may get over run which ain't fun to sort out when your trucks sinking. Sometimes using reverse to run out cable is better. It takes longer but it beats untangling 10mm cable when your waist deep in mud.

5. Keep the revs nice and low. I aim for about 1100-1500 max. Any more and shit starts to break. Keep the revs nice and constant (use hand throttle if necesary).

6. If in doubt hit the clutch to stop operations. Reassess then give it another jam.

7. Ensure that the PTO is disengaged before driving away. it may save you reshaping your bullbars.

Most of this stuff is pretty simple. Don't rev the guts out of it when winching and she'll give you a good run.

yup got one on my cruiser used it on saturday.Good Value

Look after it and it will look after you

Thanks for the replies, shit bit of a learning curve coming up,just have to go and have a look at the brake pad and dog clutch hope it doesnot bite.trying to get my wee brain around steps of operation ,only but try.

Hi just looked at pto drive shaft and it only has one shear pin on drum end,pto end has square flange and spline.I was reading some forums here which talk about 2 shear pins or is that only on nissin ptos.Cheers

Mine only has the one at the winch end...
I don't know why you would want two - especially at the PTO end - imagine replacing that when it's bogged to the chassis rails....

Yeah I'm 99% sure they only have 1 shear pin at the winch end. (On my model anyway , 1988 FRP)

Thats good ,at least i no its a standard drive shaft with one shear pin.Cheers

the "pin" that is beening talked about at the pto end is most likely the little grub screw used to hold the drive shaft onto the spline. it is easily confused with a shear pin as it is approximately the same size. dont try to pin punch it out as all this does is stuff up the hex drive and then its a bastard to try and get the allan key into it. i only know this by experance
cheers and good luck

Shit hot--- Cheers

If you're mounting it up in your bullbar have a go at making some plates to stop the cable coming off the drum when freespooling- I cut a 1/2 circle out of a couple of plastic breadboards to fit over the tops of the edges of the drum.

Make sure you can get at the shear pin easily too!

I just use a 4" nail for a shear pin.

Cheers
Clint

Clint wrote:If you're mounting it up in your bullbar have a go at making some plates to stop the cable coming off the drum when freespooling- I cut a 1/2 circle out of a couple of plastic breadboards to fit over the tops of the edges of the drum.

Cheers
Clint

That has to be one of the best ideas i have heard for a while, thanks

Thanks for the idea not sure what you mean,people have used silver steel as a shear pin so it doesnt bur ,what do you guys recommend?

Clint wrote:If you're mounting it up in your bullbar have a go at making some plates to stop the cable coming off the drum when freespooling- I cut a 1/2 circle out of a couple of plastic breadboards to fit over the tops of the edges of the drum.

Pic please